a cheap way to fix my floors

**Posts:** 60

a cheap way to fix my floors

**Posts:** 7418

The only hope for a cheap, half decent way is if you are lucky enough to find good used floors.

Just using flat sheet metal doesn't make a very nice job.

**Posts:** 13

HI SPEED THE MONEY AND DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME

**Posts:** 60

what money?

**Posts:** 1075

What did all of us do way back when when confronted with rusty floors?
We cut, formed and riveted in patches, then painted and sealed them up with undercoating.
I could be wrong, correct me if that's so, but I can't see a 15 year old having the budget to buy new pans, braces and the like, let alone be able to fit and mig them in.
I'd say cut away the worst and just patch er' up.
Are you in the GTA Jonathan?

**Posts:** 60

yea i am pickering why

**Posts:** 6256

jonathanD wrote:

yea i am pickering why

Work Party.......do you have a garage? Mark has the right idea that's what I'd do. Heck I might even suggest some POR 15 too to coat the remaining rusty bu solid parts. Could I be so bold as to mention fibre glass cloth and resin to add strength too?

**Posts:** 60

yea i dont have a garage and i think fibergalss might be a good idea because all i want from this car is a good car that runs and drives and looks good for the ladies lol

**Posts:** 6256

Bad time of year to be working outside. There are several of us in Toronto and Durham if you need a hand say so. At least we can probably come out and provide some consulting advice. Don't start using fibre glass over that rusty crap, it won't work. You need to metal patch first.

**Posts:** 8705

Reminds me of my Dad! hmm

I watched him install new steel floors, in our 61 Strato and our 52 Pontiac .. He would cut, and "fit" with a dolly hammer, and "pop rivet" the new steel, and sealed it with tar... It would be nice to see him (Jonathan) with a safe floor "got now" I would "donate some cash for the steel....

**Posts:** 1075

Good advice the POR 15 and the glass Ray.

For now I think I'd just stick with some simple exploratory work. Tap around with a small hammer, see what you've got (don't pound too hard!). Remove all the loose rust you can, wire brush and vaccume it all clean.

One important question Jonathan, what condition is your frame in? To be realistic, and I'm not at all meaning to discourage you, all the work you do to make the floors safe could be wasted if the frame is too soft to safety.

No need to worry about the sheetmetal Carl. biggrin

Jonathan, if you have someone that will be passing through Burlington soon. I can get you all the sheetmetal you'll ever need to do the repairs for free. And in the thickness and hardness that will be easiest for you to work with.

-- Edited by cdnpont on Thursday 5th of November 2009 05:48:15 PM

**Posts:** 60

my frame is in bad repair but i have a awsome shop teacher that is gonna take a look at the frame and he is a master welder but there is a problem i only have 1 hour a day to work on it and it can only be at my school for 2 weeks

**Posts:** 60

even if this cars frame is to far gone ill get a new frame ive been saving for this car since i was 13 so im not gonna give up if yea know what i mean i love this car

**Posts:** 60

i really want to thank yall for being so helpfull in the first 2 days ive been here

**Posts:** 8705

jonathanD wrote:

my frame is in bad repair but i have a awsome shop teacher that is gonna take a look at the frame and he is a master welder but there is a problem i only have 1 hour a day to work on it and it can only be at my school for 2 weeks

We all like to fix them up , but IF he can patch it up(frame) ,and you get the floors fixed, it will make a great "first car"

**Posts:** 5164

Cross Canada might have floor pans. You can check our local GM dealer- they usually are a supplier for Cross Canada.

Todd

**Posts:** 60

carl your a veteran thats soo cool. what war if you dont mind me asking?

**Posts:** 8705

jonathanD wrote:

carl your a veteran thats soo cool. what war if you dont mind me asking?

I am a veteran, because of my service,(in peace time) in the Royal Canadian Air Force! I am OLD, but not that old lol thanks

**Posts:** 7418

One thing I would suggest, and not all the guys may agree but if you are using flat tin to repair, don't try to do too large a chunk at a time. Much easier to work with smaller pieces, simpler to shape and fit them.

**Posts:** 8705

Carl Stevenson wrote:

One thing I would suggest, and not all the guys may agree but if you are using flat tin to repair, don't try to do too large a chunk at a time. Much easier to work with smaller pieces, simpler to shape and fit them.

hes correct as usual.. wink

**Posts:** 2332

I say seal the patch with bondo rather than fiberglass its more flexible. Fiberglass (stuff it) if you trying to fill additional holes around the patch

**Posts:** 60

still its a great thing that you serverd our great country even if you where not in war

**Posts:** 8705

Thank you!!!

**Posts:** 620

Way back in 1990, I had a beater 1975 Firebird Esprit 350, I patched my floors with tin and pop rivets and bolted on 1/4 " steel to my rusted out rear frames, the holes were so big in all floor corners that I could have used the car to go ice fishing on the Quinte bay LOL!, I was in CFB Trenton at the time, I'm in the airforce too. Nice to see a young man like you in the old car hobby, my son is 18 and doesn't do that sort of stuff, I wish he did ...

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427carl wrote:

Thank you!!!

and your not that old ! my older sister is just a little younger than you.

**Posts:** 60

ok i went outside the holes in the front are right beside the tansmission hub but thast on the drivers side and the passanger side but not on the hub could i rivet onto the transmission hub i dont know what the other side where it curves up going towards the door has one line of runs its very strange ill try to make a diagram but if anyone knows what i mean can i still rivet that

**Posts:** 2332

sounds OK to me-you'll see what you drill into-another thing, sheet metal screws often stay secure longer than rivets

**Posts:** 60

ok here is the diagram i tried to label it but my mouse skills suck yea see the one closest to the high beams switch

so what do yall think can i patch them or do i have to replace them
-- Edited by jonathanD on Thursday 5th of November 2009 10:28:19 PM

-- Edited by jonathanD on Friday 6th of November 2009 03:31:23 PM

-- Edited by jonathanD on Friday 6th of November 2009 09:55:14 PM

**Posts:** 60

if ya can read my miles on the car it says 67k sweet eh

**Posts:** 31

i think you can get a 1/4 section of floor to cover the whole area. that would be your best bet. buy the time you cut to good metal for welding in a patch in those 3 areas most of the floor would be gone so might be easier to get a 1/4 section for that area and weld it in