Just started the tear down on my new project, a '56 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr coupe. Confidence is high, but I'm quickly realizing I need a bigger garage (and a bigger wallet)!
Canadian Poncho said
Jul 13, 2012
Cool! I'm hoping this will be a build thread!
crazyj said
Jul 14, 2012
Looks like you have a few busy evenings ahead of you. Good luck and keep us posted.
Crazy J
kelico said
Jul 14, 2012
right on.. all the best
Pontiacanada said
Jul 14, 2012
All the best! If you hit a road block just walk away ... but not for too long!
hwscowboy said
Jul 15, 2012
looks good so far,couldn't we all use a bigger garage?and a bigger wallet!have fun
unburt said
Jul 15, 2012
This is exciting stuff ,always nice to see a cool project get underway. The key with a resto is organization, been there with the smaller space challenges. Good luck and keep the pics coming.
gnipgnop said
Jul 16, 2012
I'll try and post some update pictures from time to time. It's going to take a while to complete (refer to "bigger wallet" statement), but that's ok as I'm in no hurry.
You definitely hit the nail on the head, unburt. I need to keep everything labelled and organized, otherwise re-assembly will be a nightmare. Zip-Lock bags to the rescue! :)
First order of business is to get the front end rebuilt. I'll be doing a disc brake and power steering upgrade. For lowering the front I'm trying to decide between dropped spindles versus lowering springs and have heard pros and cons for both. If anyone has tried either option, I would greatly appreciate comments on your experience.
davelacourse said
Jul 17, 2012
gnipgnop wrote:
First order of business is to get the front end rebuilt. I'll be doing a disc brake and power steering upgrade. For lowering the front I'm trying to decide between dropped spindles versus lowering springs and have heard pros and cons for both. If anyone has tried either option, I would greatly appreciate comments on your experience.
I went with dropped spindles which worked out very well (complete disk brake kit). I chose them because (1) upgrade from the original ball bearings to superior tapered roller bearings, (2) caliper bltes directly to spindle instead of using an adaptor plate, and (3) front end geometry is not affected like shorter springs would do.
Dave
gnipgnop said
Jul 18, 2012
davelacourse wrote:
gnipgnop wrote:
First order of business is to get the front end rebuilt. I'll be doing a disc brake and power steering upgrade. For lowering the front I'm trying to decide between dropped spindles versus lowering springs and have heard pros and cons for both. If anyone has tried either option, I would greatly appreciate comments on your experience.
I went with dropped spindles which worked out very well (complete disk brake kit). I chose them because (1) upgrade from the original ball bearings to superior tapered roller bearings, (2) caliper bltes directly to spindle instead of using an adaptor plate, and (3) front end geometry is not affected like shorter springs would do.
Dave
Good points, Dave. I hadn't considered the added benefits of the updated bearings and caliper mounting. Cheers!
gnipgnop said
Aug 9, 2012
The interior is now stripped and next is prepping for new floor pans. I've never replaced floor pans before, so this should be interesting.
4SPEED427 said
Aug 9, 2012
Floor pans are a lot of fun. Just take your time, mark it all very carefully, measure, measure, measure and it will turn out great!
gnipgnop said
Aug 9, 2012
Good advice, Carl. Thanks!
gnipgnop said
Jul 29, 2013
It's been a while since my last post. Here's where the project is now:
1. All parts removed, bagged and tagged.
2. The new front floor pans and transmission tunnel patch are welded in.
3. The body has been pulled off the frame.
Next up... frame goes out for sandblasting, the underside of the body gets a going over, and finish off the floor work with a few minor patches.
I'm still looking at options for painting the frame, but at the moment I'm leaning towards POR-15.
That's what I'm going to use on mine. Just glove-up with long sleeves/pant legs when you do it ... It will stick to you for weeks!
-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Monday 29th of July 2013 06:01:33 PM
Pontiacanada said
Jul 29, 2013
Ya, POR (Paint Over Rust) is just that, "paint over rust". It bonds with rust and not with clean steel. Just wire brush the loose rust, dirt and then paint.
It also reacts with the sun's UV rays ... it eventually goes "milky". Red POR will go pinkish, black POR will go greyish. If you plan on using it on a sun-exposed surface, you must top coat it with a non-translucent finish (rattle can red or black for instance).
This is as far as I'm going with rust removal and tear-down for now, it's ready for painting. I'll paint the remainder later:
-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Monday 29th of July 2013 06:01:04 PM
I'm still looking at options for painting the frame, but at the moment I'm leaning towards POR-15.
unburt said
Jul 30, 2013
I love that car and the build is neat to watch,many hard hours inviloved. I must chime in about Por-15 and its qualitys. I painted my subframe and the entire underside of my car. The prep work i did was very involved and i basically used a 3M Roloc wheel on a air die grinder. I had everything very clean and degreased every square inch that was getting a coat. Bottom line is i can in many places peel the stuff off. I had a product tech guy say to me ...you had it to clean and rust free. This stuff does bond better to a light rust surface. This seems to be the commmon factor when using this stuff. Just wanted to give you my experience and i have couple other friends with the same result. There is some info out there about the problems with the product. Other guys have had good success so its a decision. I belong to some other forums and there are views on other products that seem to be very good. Do some research and good luck ,keep the pics coming.
gnipgnop said
Jul 30, 2013
Thanks for the good tips. The POR-15 website says that their product works "great" on rusted surfaces and is also "good" on seasoned or sandblasted metal, which would indicate it can be applied to a sandblasted surface but probably doesn't adhere as well as on a rusted surface. I never thought I'd live to see the day where a paint works better on a rusty surface. :)
Pontiacanada said
Jul 30, 2013
gnipgnop wrote:
and is also "good" on seasoned or sandblasted metal, which would indicate it can be applied to a sandblasted surface but probably doesn't adhere as well as on a rusted surface.
I think in conjunction with a "primer" coat.
gnipgnop said
Aug 27, 2013
Latest progress photos:
1. Frame returned from sandblaster. Cost was $250 (money well spent!).
2. Frame painted with 2 coats epoxy primer
3. Frame painted with 2 coats of satin black chassis paint.
4. Mock up of tubular a-arms, dropped spindles and disc brakes.
Just started the tear down on my new project, a '56 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr coupe. Confidence is high, but I'm quickly realizing I need a bigger garage (and a bigger wallet)!
Looks like you have a few busy evenings ahead of you. Good luck and keep us posted.
Crazy J
All the best! If you hit a road block just walk away ... but not for too long!
Good luck and keep the pics coming.
You definitely hit the nail on the head, unburt. I need to keep everything labelled and organized, otherwise re-assembly will be a nightmare. Zip-Lock bags to the rescue! :)
First order of business is to get the front end rebuilt. I'll be doing a disc brake and power steering upgrade. For lowering the front I'm trying to decide between dropped spindles versus lowering springs and have heard pros and cons for both. If anyone has tried either option, I would greatly appreciate comments on your experience.
I went with dropped spindles which worked out very well (complete disk brake kit). I chose them because (1) upgrade from the original ball bearings to superior tapered roller bearings, (2) caliper bltes directly to spindle instead of using an adaptor plate, and (3) front end geometry is not affected like shorter springs would do.
Dave
Good points, Dave. I hadn't considered the added benefits of the updated bearings and caliper mounting. Cheers!
The interior is now stripped and next is prepping for new floor pans. I've never replaced floor pans before, so this should be interesting.
It's been a while since my last post. Here's where the project is now:
1. All parts removed, bagged and tagged.
2. The new front floor pans and transmission tunnel patch are welded in.
3. The body has been pulled off the frame.
Next up... frame goes out for sandblasting, the underside of the body gets a going over, and finish off the floor work with a few minor patches.
That's what I'm going to use on mine. Just glove-up with long sleeves/pant legs when you do it ... It will stick to you for weeks!
-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Monday 29th of July 2013 06:01:33 PM
Ya, POR (Paint Over Rust) is just that, "paint over rust". It bonds with rust and not with clean steel. Just wire brush the loose rust, dirt and then paint.
It also reacts with the sun's UV rays ... it eventually goes "milky". Red POR will go pinkish, black POR will go greyish. If you plan on using it on a sun-exposed surface, you must top coat it with a non-translucent finish (rattle can red or black for instance).
This is as far as I'm going with rust removal and tear-down for now, it's ready for painting. I'll paint the remainder later:
-- Edited by Pontiacanada on Monday 29th of July 2013 06:01:04 PM
I'm still looking at options for painting the frame, but at the moment I'm leaning towards POR-15.
The prep work i did was very involved and i basically used a 3M Roloc wheel on a air die grinder. I had everything very clean and degreased every square inch that was getting a coat. Bottom line is i can in many places peel the stuff off. I had a product tech guy say to me ...you had it to clean and rust free. This stuff does bond better to a light rust surface. This seems to be the commmon factor when using this stuff.
Just wanted to give you my experience and i have couple other friends with the same result. There is some info out there about the problems with the product.
Other guys have had good success so its a decision. I belong to some other forums and there are views on other products that seem to be very good.
Do some research and good luck ,keep the pics coming.
I think in conjunction with a "primer" coat.
Latest progress photos:
1. Frame returned from sandblaster. Cost was $250 (money well spent!).
2. Frame painted with 2 coats epoxy primer
3. Frame painted with 2 coats of satin black chassis paint.
4. Mock up of tubular a-arms, dropped spindles and disc brakes.
Looking great!!!
Lookin' good! Suggest painting the spindles and rotor hats before final assembly ...
Dave
Good point, Dave
I was planning to paint the spindles but hadn't thought about the rotor hats. Thanks for the tip.
Mitch