Well I think I most likely will need help or guidance along my way with my project, so I thought It would be acceptable to share my progress if anyone is interested? In this manner those of you that are interested can advise me before I make that big mistake.
So as of today I have the coach braced, stripped and lifted from the frame. See pictures attached
-- Edited by silver steak on Friday 14th of October 2016 07:35:09 AM
All restoration posts are welcome and appreciated! Lookin' good! More than adequate bracing!
Canadian Poncho said
Oct 14, 2016
Indeed. Those body's were pretty stiff back in the day. I look forward to more photos!
silver steak said
Oct 14, 2016
Hey Gentlemen, thanks for the comments, I have a question for you,
Say in a week or so , if I wanted to update my post, do I, or can I add to this one ? or do I make another post and call it Project Update 2. ?
Regards
Pontiacanada said
Oct 14, 2016
I would just add updates to this thread. Call it your build thread. I like looking at car restos.
davelacourse said
Oct 15, 2016
Definitely add here - that way everyone can see the whole progress from beginning to end.
Gonna sandblast the frame?
Dave
norontcan said
Oct 15, 2016
Sounds like the start of an interesting thread. Keep it coming.
silver steak said
Oct 16, 2016
My goal for the winter is to take the Coach, now that it is firmly in the Rotisserie , and move it out of the shop for storage. I don't have access to a Commercial Sand Blast Shop, however, we do have a mobile hi pressure wash. He uses a product I believe it is called Black Diamond Grit. I think I am going to go this route. However, to answer the question, yes the frame will be bare, and starting from the front going to the back with the rebuild. I only made this decision once I found KANTER Auto supply, there isn't much they don't have for the task.
Before
After
-- Edited by silver steak on Saturday 8th of September 2018 12:20:33 PM
looks like you have a great body to start with, and everything is well in hand!
silver steak said
Oct 18, 2016
Thanks for the confidence builder " Well in hand"
I am soul searching for an engine shop that is familiar with the Flat Head era ?
I am not really sure of the odometer reading being true , and at this point I really feel the engine must be torn down by a Competent Engine Tech who knows the Flat Head engine.
The engine will be off the frame by the weekend with a stand built for it, because nothing conventional will fit this LONG six cylinder.
I live in Bathurst NB, any suggestions out there would be appreciated.
Thanks
davelacourse said
Oct 18, 2016
Good work! Sweet rotisserie. I am looking forward to a photo some day of that same underside with shiny new paint!
Body looks pretty decent - door jambs appear to be in great shape, easy to replace rockers, I am pretty sure that a Chevy piece of similar vintage can be obtained to replace the sheet metal at the front of the rear fender ... keep at it!
Dave
silver steak said
Oct 20, 2016
Well the six cylinder looks pretty lonely all by itself on the shop floor, today I removed the transmission, clutch pressure plate, flywheel and bell housing. Next Tuesday we off to bring it to Sussex Engine builders in southern New Brunswick.
Next step is to remove the Front K Member and the rear differential , then the frame is off to sand blast shop. Things are moving along.
-- Edited by silver steak on Thursday 20th of October 2016 04:46:39 PM
-- Edited by silver steak on Thursday 20th of October 2016 04:48:43 PM
Next Tuesday we off to bring it to Sussex Engine builders in southern New Brunswick.
Next step is to remove the Front K Member and the rear differential , then the frame is off to sand blast shop. Things are moving along.
Let us know what Sussex is like.
I'd say "things are moving along". Looks like you have the right shop and machinery/tools to pull off the job!
silver steak said
Oct 21, 2016
Hey Darryl
Thanks, the shop is OK for a back yard hobbyist, but thanks for the compliment.
I have already used the services of Sussex Engine Builders, in fact this will be my third time. When I built the 454 for my 67 Beaumont, they did the final assembly and break in along with the dyno test. The pic below shows the engine in their cradle ready for the start up event. The first time was with my son when he built his 383 stroker, I was impressed with them. The issue I had in an earlier post was dealing with OLD technology of the Flat Head engine, these guys can handle the job, never can tell they may have to bore the block and use bigger pistons, OOOPS, what am I saying increasing the Compression Ratio, don't tell my wife.
I have already used the services of Sussex Engine Builders, in fact this will be my third time. When I built the 454 for my 67 Beaumont, they did the final assembly and break in along with the dyno test. The pic below shows the engine in their cradle ready for the start up event. The first time was with my son when he built his 383 stroker, I was impressed with them. The issue I had in an earlier post was dealing with OLD technology of the Flat Head engine, these guys can handle the job, never can tell they may have to bore the block and use bigger pistons, OOOPS, what am I saying increasing the Compression Ratio, don't tell my wife.
Good to know. I will need a rebuilder (for a Chev 283) in the future.
66 Beau said
Oct 24, 2016
Great build thread! Thanks for sharing!
My neighbour has a 1953 (I think) 4 door Pontiac. Can't see a model name on it. It's in good, "barn-find" shape body wise, but it does run and drive. I've helped him with a few minor things. The car is very similar to yours, especially the mechanical. He's not internet savvy so I've done some parts searches for him. I'll check out KANTER Auto supply - might be a good source for him. He's talking about doing a rebuild so your thread will be a great reference! (He's also got a 1952? Standard Vanguard that he's talking about rebuilding. That one should be really interesting to track down parts. I'd never seen one those before).
You should also do some searches and watch for any posts by Fitz. He's done some amazing work on these old Ponchos.
The old hot rodders trick to increasing CR on these old flatheads was to mill the head down to decrease the volume at TDC. Easier than swapping pistons, but the trick is in knowing how much milling you can get away with.
-- Edited by 66 Beau on Monday 24th of October 2016 06:05:58 PM
50sedandelivery said
Oct 25, 2016
silver steak wrote:
Hey Darryl
Thanks, the shop is OK for a back yard hobbyist, but thanks for the compliment.
"I have already used the services of Sussex Engine Builders, in fact this will be my third time. When I built the 454 for my 67 Beaumont, they did the final assembly and break in along with the dyno test. The pic below shows the engine in their cradle ready for the start up event. The first time was with my son when he built his 383 stroker, I was impressed with them. The issue I had in an earlier post was dealing with OLD technology of the Flat Head engine, these guys can handle the job, never can tell they may have to bore the block and use bigger pistons, OOOPS, what am I saying increasing the Compression Ratio, don't tell my wife."
If you need O.S. pistons, I've got a couple of sets left over from my rebuild. One size set only has 5 though. I think you'll find an old post of mine in "Parts for sale" with sizes.
Kanter is pretty good- I bought some of my stuff from them.
CdnGMfan said
Oct 25, 2016
Torpedoback, cool! When you get to the body, be careful about sandblasting the sheetmetal since it can be distorted by the heat and force of sandblasting. Perhaps shell blasting (walnut shells) or something similarly soft. Make sure to voice your concerns with your sandblaster; they may have a gentler media for the sheetmetal, or at the very least they can go easy on the body. You don't want to get waves and distortion on the hood, doors, cowl etc.
silver steak said
Oct 26, 2016
Thanks for the words of caution regarding blasting media, paint will be removed with a chemical remover (stripper) and razor blades, I have lots of time on my hands ( retired), very little blasting planned on sheet metal.
The Frame and front K member is another story, again light blasting is required and I think he uses Soda? not sure .
silver steak said
Oct 26, 2016
Well my L6 looks pretty small inside Sussex Engine Builders shop. Project is moving along.
Those 6 are great engine, but the weak point is the head bolts. It may be very possible that those bolts wouldn't torque enough without twisting. In that case don't use bolt 8 grade from «home depot». first you'll miss stud for the throtle linkage, the head are not the good size, it miss the step under the head bolt for sealing, and more important THEY ARE UGLY!!!
What will you do if they are shot?order a new set to my shop!!
Good luck with your built and put picture often OR I'll go to your house and put myself picture in your computer!
WOW- those are nice Andre!! You are so right about stock bolts from anywhere- the heads are even thinner.
Are they stainless- they look like it? Makes me want to replace mine. How much for the set may I ask?
Fitz said
Oct 27, 2016
They aren't in stainless, they are in the same material on very close to original. You must need it, it's not cheap. The last one I sold cost around 750$ if I remember correctly, and it was a PG car, so 2 more with studs. But when you can't torque correctly a head and you want to save $ on your build, you'll pay it back anyway with head gasket issues, prestone leak, and possibly a towing, because, old cars are like gas mower: it break when you use it! Not when they are in the garage. It's not a former President who said that??
it's not cheap. The last one I sold cost around 750$ if I remember correctly,
Fitz.
Yah- but with my Yankee bucks that's only $575 ! I'll take two sets!!LOL
You're definitely right about these cars- mine hasn't broken down at all during the whole time it's been in the shop!! (year 42 and counting).
silver steak said
Dec 6, 2016
Well I have good news, I received a phone call this afternoon from Sussex Engine builders, they have my L6 239 torn down, and to say the least they were impressed with what they found.
In short the crank dose not need work, pistons show no wear/scuff or scratches, block does not even need to be re-bored average .004" slack , however the valve seats will all require major cleaning, hence the reason I could not get any positive pressure during my leak down test. I thought I would share my good fortune so now I'll be able to say the engine will be original bore, for whatever that is worth?
If I may, I have to ask for help tracking down an new oil pan, any leads ?
Well I think I most likely will need help or guidance along my way with my project, so I thought It would be acceptable to share my progress if anyone is interested? In this manner those of you that are interested can advise me before I make that big mistake.
So as of today I have the coach braced, stripped and lifted from the frame. See pictures attached
-- Edited by silver steak on Friday 14th of October 2016 07:35:09 AM
All restoration posts are welcome and appreciated! Lookin' good! More than adequate bracing!
Hey Gentlemen, thanks for the comments, I have a question for you,
Say in a week or so , if I wanted to update my post, do I, or can I add to this one ? or do I make another post and call it Project Update 2. ?
Regards
I would just add updates to this thread. Call it your build thread. I like looking at car restos.
Gonna sandblast the frame?
Dave
My goal for the winter is to take the Coach, now that it is firmly in the Rotisserie , and move it out of the shop for storage. I don't have access to a Commercial Sand Blast Shop, however, we do have a mobile hi pressure wash. He uses a product I believe it is called Black Diamond Grit. I think I am going to go this route. However, to answer the question, yes the frame will be bare, and starting from the front going to the back with the rebuild. I only made this decision once I found KANTER Auto supply, there isn't much they don't have for the task.
Before
After
-- Edited by silver steak on Saturday 8th of September 2018 12:20:33 PM
looks like you have a great body to start with, and everything is well in hand!
Thanks for the confidence builder " Well in hand"
I am soul searching for an engine shop that is familiar with the Flat Head era ?
I am not really sure of the odometer reading being true , and at this point I really feel the engine must be torn down by a Competent Engine Tech who knows the Flat Head engine.
The engine will be off the frame by the weekend with a stand built for it, because nothing conventional will fit this LONG six cylinder.
I live in Bathurst NB, any suggestions out there would be appreciated.
Thanks
Body looks pretty decent - door jambs appear to be in great shape, easy to replace rockers, I am pretty sure that a Chevy piece of similar vintage can be obtained to replace the sheet metal at the front of the rear fender ... keep at it!
Dave
Well the six cylinder looks pretty lonely all by itself on the shop floor, today I removed the transmission, clutch pressure plate, flywheel and bell housing. Next Tuesday we off to bring it to Sussex Engine builders in southern New Brunswick.
Next step is to remove the Front K Member and the rear differential , then the frame is off to sand blast shop. Things are moving along.
-- Edited by silver steak on Thursday 20th of October 2016 04:46:39 PM
-- Edited by silver steak on Thursday 20th of October 2016 04:48:43 PM
Let us know what Sussex is like.
I'd say "things are moving along". Looks like you have the right shop and machinery/tools to pull off the job!
Hey Darryl
Thanks, the shop is OK for a back yard hobbyist, but thanks for the compliment.
I have already used the services of Sussex Engine Builders, in fact this will be my third time. When I built the 454 for my 67 Beaumont, they did the final assembly and break in along with the dyno test. The pic below shows the engine in their cradle ready for the start up event. The first time was with my son when he built his 383 stroker, I was impressed with them. The issue I had in an earlier post was dealing with OLD technology of the Flat Head engine, these guys can handle the job, never can tell they may have to bore the block and use bigger pistons, OOOPS, what am I saying increasing the Compression Ratio, don't tell my wife.
Good to know. I will need a rebuilder (for a Chev 283) in the future.
Great build thread! Thanks for sharing!
My neighbour has a 1953 (I think) 4 door Pontiac. Can't see a model name on it. It's in good, "barn-find" shape body wise, but it does run and drive. I've helped him with a few minor things. The car is very similar to yours, especially the mechanical. He's not internet savvy so I've done some parts searches for him. I'll check out KANTER Auto supply - might be a good source for him. He's talking about doing a rebuild so your thread will be a great reference! (He's also got a 1952? Standard Vanguard that he's talking about rebuilding. That one should be really interesting to track down parts. I'd never seen one those before).
You should also do some searches and watch for any posts by Fitz. He's done some amazing work on these old Ponchos.
The old hot rodders trick to increasing CR on these old flatheads was to mill the head down to decrease the volume at TDC. Easier than swapping pistons, but the trick is in knowing how much milling you can get away with.
-- Edited by 66 Beau on Monday 24th of October 2016 06:05:58 PM
If you need O.S. pistons, I've got a couple of sets left over from my rebuild. One size set only has 5 though. I think you'll find an old post of mine in "Parts for sale" with sizes.
Kanter is pretty good- I bought some of my stuff from them.
Torpedoback, cool! When you get to the body, be careful about sandblasting the sheetmetal since it can be distorted by the heat and force of sandblasting. Perhaps shell blasting (walnut shells) or something similarly soft. Make sure to voice your concerns with your sandblaster; they may have a gentler media for the sheetmetal, or at the very least they can go easy on the body. You don't want to get waves and distortion on the hood, doors, cowl etc.
Thanks for the words of caution regarding blasting media, paint will be removed with a chemical remover (stripper) and razor blades, I have lots of time on my hands ( retired), very little blasting planned on sheet metal.
The Frame and front K member is another story, again light blasting is required and I think he uses Soda? not sure .
Well my L6 looks pretty small inside Sussex Engine Builders shop. Project is moving along.
Those 6 are great engine, but the weak point is the head bolts. It may be very possible that those bolts wouldn't torque enough without twisting. In that case don't use bolt 8 grade from «home depot». first you'll miss stud for the throtle linkage, the head are not the good size, it miss the step under the head bolt for sealing, and more important THEY ARE UGLY!!!
What will you do if they are shot?order a new set to my shop!!
Good luck with your built and put picture often OR I'll go to your house and put myself picture in your computer!
Fitz.
Are they stainless- they look like it? Makes me want to replace mine. How much for the set may I ask?
They aren't in stainless, they are in the same material on very close to original. You must need it, it's not cheap. The last one I sold cost around 750$ if I remember correctly, and it was a PG car, so 2 more with studs. But when you can't torque correctly a head and you want to save $ on your build, you'll pay it back anyway with head gasket issues, prestone leak, and possibly a towing, because, old cars are like gas mower: it break when you use it! Not when they are in the garage. It's not a former President who said that??
Fitz.
Well I have good news, I received a phone call this afternoon from Sussex Engine builders, they have my L6 239 torn down, and to say the least they were impressed with what they found.
In short the crank dose not need work, pistons show no wear/scuff or scratches, block does not even need to be re-bored average .004" slack , however the valve seats will all require major cleaning, hence the reason I could not get any positive pressure during my leak down test. I thought I would share my good fortune so now I'll be able to say the engine will be original bore, for whatever that is worth?
If I may, I have to ask for help tracking down an new oil pan, any leads ?
Thanks Dale