Looking for an original rad and fan shroud for my 66 Beaumont. Anyone have one kicking around that you'd part with? Small block or big block unit will do the trick. I'm swapping out a 307 for a ZZ4 350.
Does anyone know if a full size 66 rad will bolt in?
Previous owners installed a generic aluminium unit that just kind of hangs in there and cools so poorly that it's turned me off of aluminium rads altogether.
66 Beau said
Jan 24, 2017
Are you talking about the one that mounted in front of the radiator? The Parts Manual calls it a "Shroud, Radiator mounting" (part number 3867783 - same number from 1964 through 1967).
I don't think any Beaumonts came with an actual fan shroud (behind the rad and around the fan) until 1968, but I could be wrong.
I bought one from Summit last spring. Should have done it years ago. I think it was about $100 Canadian. It ain't perfect, but it mounted easy, looks like it could have come from the factory (IMHO), and it works.
Mike Ward MB said
Jan 24, 2017
66 Beau wrote:
Are you talking about the one that mounted in front of the radiator? The Parts Manual calls it a "Shroud, Radiator mounting" (part number 3867783 - same number from 1964 through 1967).
I don't think any Beaumonts came with an actual fan shroud (behind the rad and around the fan) until 1968, but I could be wrong.
I bought one from Summit last spring. Should have done it years ago. I think it was about $100 Canadian. It ain't perfect, but it mounted easy, looks like it could have come from the factory (IMHO), and it works.
I thought they came with a shroud but now that you mention it I'm not sure. The rad is the part I really need.
Do you know the Summit number of the shroud you bought? I'll add it to my wishlist.
I've found rads on line but I thought I'd check around the neighbourhood for a good used one, before parting with $400-$500 US for a reproduction unit.
beaumontguru said
Jan 24, 2017
Mike, i have a spacer for the rad, should be what you are looking for
PM for details
Sorry i never had a chance to talk with you at coffee last week
A lot of my friends had the 66 and 67 Chevelles and Beaumonts back in the early 70's. I recall seeing that shroud on some of them. I remember thinking how funny it looked - like a short piece of culvert.
I've found examples of moulded plastic shrouds at Summit, as mentioned by 66 Beau, that are the same as what's on my 72 Nova. My shopping list for the motor and transmission upgrade in the Beaumont is getting a little out of control, but I won't be ordering anything until I get it apart and take stock of what I have, what I need to get it on the road, and what I ultimately want to finish it.
My Nova is already apart for a make-over so I'm having a hard time getting started disassembling the Beaumont at the same time. But I'll have to get started on it soon or they'll both be out of commission for the summer!
Pontiacanada said
Jan 25, 2017
Mike Ward MB wrote:
A lot of my friends had the 66 and 67 Chevelles and Beaumonts back in the early 70's. I recall seeing that shroud on some of them. I remember thinking how funny it looked - like a short piece of culvert.
My '64 283 Parisienne has a culvert-style shroud like in your parts schematic.
65 SD L79 said
Jan 25, 2017
Mike Ward MB wrote:
Mike Ward MB wrote:
Looking for 1 and 3.
Make that 1 and 5.
I was thinking this would be the set up for big block and the small block would use the spacer between rad and rad support. The shroud would be used on a/c cars and the 65 L79 cars
4SPEED427 said
Jan 25, 2017
Mike, I just sent you a PM.
Mike Ward MB said
Jan 25, 2017
My 66 Beaumont, currently with a 307 in there, runs hot even on the highway. I don't know what temp it runs at because it only has light indication. The engine I'm replacing it with was in my 72 Nova and with the original 2 core rad with shroud warmed up to 180 and stayed there no matter what the situation. So I'll be installing gauges and a shroud on the rad to make sure I protect the ZZ4 from overheating in the Beaumont and am able to have an eye on the oil pressure. We'll see how it goes with that aluminium rad and won't change it out unless it doesn't perform. With the Nova being a 4sp and the Beaumont an automatic (th350), I know there will be additional engine heat due to the transmission so I'll do everything I can to hold the temp at a consistent level.
Big block or small, air or not, I'm pretty much sold on the need for a shroud on a rad.
66 Beau said
Jan 25, 2017
From what I've seen, the problem arises when you switch to a long neck water pump and remove the Radiator shroud (the one in front of the rad). Even with a BIG spacer, the fan sits too far away from the rad, and cooling is dismal at low speeds. A fan shroud (behind the rad & around the fan) becomes necessary. (NOTE that with the original set up, the fan sits about 3/4 to 1 inch away from the rad, and apparently, you don't need a fan shroud)
Using the long neck water pump also required I relocate the alternator and I have a passenger side bracket off a '70 Nova.
I considered going back to the short water pump, reinstalling the radiator shroud (in front of the rad) like original, and putting the alternator back on the driver's side. This would put my fan up against the rad again and I am pretty sure this would have solved my over heating problem. But when I installed the new engine, the long water pump was brand new - the short neck one was the original...
I don't recall seeing the fan shroud on a 6 cylinder Beaumont, as shown in the drawings you posted. From the drawings, it looks like it'd be similar to the ones used on early 60's B-bodies (metal tube and brackets). I suspect you'd be limited on the fan diameter you could fit, but I'm guessing.
It was an easy install, but is a tight fit with my flex fan. I reduced the length of the spacer between the pump & the fan, which I consider a good thing. It could be a little more rigid, and I worried about it flexing and hitting the fan on the highway, but it has performed fine.
I know the OPG one fits. Can't speak for the Goodmark one.
If you have a short water pump, I'd definitely try using it with the original radiator shroud (the one in front of the rad) and get your fan ~1 inch from the rad. That's the way GM did it, and apparently it worked even for BB applications. If you have the long water pump and have already removed the radiator shroud and relocated the alternator, then the fan shroud should keep things cool.
My 2 cents....
66 Beau said
Jan 25, 2017
One other thing. I like the fan shroud because the new rad I got did not have the finger guard at the top. I was always uncomfortable reaching over the fan to work on the engine. The fan shroud provides at least a little protection.
Mike Ward MB said
Jan 25, 2017
My ZZ4 has a long water pump so I have two choices, change everything else to line up and fit the long pump or use the short pump and everything else will fit.
I was looking at a new power steering pump bracket, wiring the alternator to the opposite side and new pulleys. I hadn't considered any issues with the rad spacing using the long pump.
If I use the short pump, I might have to replace the tired old short pump I have, but everything else will bolt right up.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Mike Ward MB said
Jan 25, 2017
Mike Ward MB wrote:
If I use the short pump, I might have to replace the tired old short pump I have, but everything else will bolt right up.
Or will it??
66 Beau said
Jan 25, 2017
I changed the alternator bracket to suit the long water pump. I didn't need to change the power steering bracket.
As long as you have the original radiator shroud in place, and the original fan spacer, I think it should all bolt up nicely.
One thing though - the original alternator bracket bolts to the exhaust manifold on the driver's side. If you're using headers, you might have another problem...
427carl said
Jan 25, 2017
Mike Ward MB wrote:
66 Beau wrote:
I thought I'd check around the neighbourhood for a good used one, before parting with $400-$500 US for a reproduction unit.
good used 50 year old rad ? interesting The Champion brand rad on E-Bay cooled my big block very well
A lot of my friends had the 66 and 67 Chevelles and Beaumonts back in the early 70's. I recall seeing that shroud on some of them. I remember thinking how funny it looked - like a short piece of culvert.
I've found examples of moulded plastic shrouds at Summit, as mentioned by 66 Beau, that are the same as what's on my 72 Nova. My shopping list for the motor and transmission upgrade in the Beaumont is getting a little out of control, but I won't be ordering anything until I get it apart and take stock of what I have, what I need to get it on the road, and what I ultimately want to finish it.
My Nova is already apart for a make-over so I'm having a hard time getting started disassembling the Beaumont at the same time. But I'll have to get started on it soon or they'll both be out of commission for the summer!
Just an FYI. My 66 327 did not come with a shroud. (I did upgrade the original dual core to a triple at one point though. Just barely enough room.)
CdnGMfan said
May 30, 2017
The actual shroud was used in place of the finger guard when the V01 H.D. Radiator was specified (very rarely done in Canada back then, and surprisingly the Canadian 396 didn't even offer it). Notice what Mike Ward posted, it spells out what the h.d. rad included (the V01 rad was also included with C60 a/c which wasn't factory installed on Beaumonts or Canadian Chevelles until '68).
I'm surprised that you had trouble cooling with an aluminum rad since those rads can really draw off & dissipate heat. As was mentioned by others, spacing between the fan & radiator is critical. When you go back and forth between a short & long water pump, you have to make sure the fan to rad spacing is still optimal, like only 3/4 of an inch. Factory small block V8 Beaumonts used a rad spacer to push the rad back from the rad support towards the fan, plus a fan spacer. Inline sixes & big blocks didn't use the rad spacers because those engines were longer than the small blocks. I would make sure my fan spacer & rad spacer work together to provide the proper tight clearance. You also don't want to go too too long on the fan spacer (a fan clutch would go in place of the spacer if you are going to run one).
Personally I think the clutch fans are best as they don't soak up horsepower trying to spin uselessly to 5000+ RPM; they are limited to about 2000 RPM which cuts parasitic losses, noise, and is a great safety factor (think centrifugal force). The ones I don't like are the flex fans because they spin at full engine rpm, plus they flex which over time leads to fatigue. A fatigued flex fan at rpm is like a grenade and the blades can slice right through the hood or any personal body parts nearby.
I was looking to add a shroud to the replacement h.d. rad in my 67 Chevelle (inline six powered) and found that I pretty much have to contact a vendor in California to find a used one for a six. Basically the vendor told me to actually measure the rad before buying the shroud. There are repro shrouds for big blocks, plus functional equivalent ones for small blocks (that are plastic whereas the OEM small block ones were metal).
Mike Ward MB said
May 30, 2017
I've got the motor change done and after trying a few configurations have it running like a champ and holding temp at 180.
ZZ4 (350) installed with long water pump. Spacer between rad and cradle in place. 6 blade fan installed with no spacer. Alternator moved to passenger side with bracket used previously in my 72 Nova. Original power steering bracket modified to clear the larger balancer. Belts align perfectly.
I will be installing a shroud, to protect fingers reaching in and for optimal air movement.
Shout-out to 66 Beau for sharing his expertise and experience with this installation. It took a lot of pressure off and likely prevented me from ordering parts that I didn't need.
Don't ever shy away from asking even the simplest questions on here. The answers are out there!
1966SD said
May 31, 2017
I acquired this shroud from a fellow who owned several 66 chevelles and beaumonts. He labelled it so I'm unsure how accurate that is. I don't have a use for it so I would part with it if someone needs it. Stan
Looking for an original rad and fan shroud for my 66 Beaumont. Anyone have one kicking around that you'd part with? Small block or big block unit will do the trick. I'm swapping out a 307 for a ZZ4 350.
Does anyone know if a full size 66 rad will bolt in?
Previous owners installed a generic aluminium unit that just kind of hangs in there and cools so poorly that it's turned me off of aluminium rads altogether.
I don't think any Beaumonts came with an actual fan shroud (behind the rad and around the fan) until 1968, but I could be wrong.
I bought one from Summit last spring. Should have done it years ago. I think it was about $100 Canadian. It ain't perfect, but it mounted easy, looks like it could have come from the factory (IMHO), and it works.
I thought they came with a shroud but now that you mention it I'm not sure. The rad is the part I really need.
Do you know the Summit number of the shroud you bought? I'll add it to my wishlist.
I've found rads on line but I thought I'd check around the neighbourhood for a good used one, before parting with $400-$500 US for a reproduction unit.
Mike, i have a spacer for the rad, should be what you are looking for
PM for details
Sorry i never had a chance to talk with you at coffee last week
Looking for 1 and 3.
Make that 1 and 5.
I think a bunch of us had that problem, the crowd was too big! A good problem to have...
Not sure what that picture is from? To my knowledge, the only chevelle/beaumont that had a shroud was certain optioned 327 cars and cars with AirCon.
Chevelles generally never used shrouds, only a spacer between the craddle and the rad.
this is the proper setup in a 1967 283 car, 66 is basicly the same as is 64 and 65
all used a short waterpump, and a fan spacer as shown.
the only "shroud" was hte small finger guard centered at the top of the rad
A lot of my friends had the 66 and 67 Chevelles and Beaumonts back in the early 70's. I recall seeing that shroud on some of them. I remember thinking how funny it looked - like a short piece of culvert.
I've found examples of moulded plastic shrouds at Summit, as mentioned by 66 Beau, that are the same as what's on my 72 Nova. My shopping list for the motor and transmission upgrade in the Beaumont is getting a little out of control, but I won't be ordering anything until I get it apart and take stock of what I have, what I need to get it on the road, and what I ultimately want to finish it.
My Nova is already apart for a make-over so I'm having a hard time getting started disassembling the Beaumont at the same time. But I'll have to get started on it soon or they'll both be out of commission for the summer!
My '64 283 Parisienne has a culvert-style shroud like in your parts schematic.
I was thinking this would be the set up for big block and the small block would use the spacer between rad and rad support. The shroud would be used on a/c cars and the 65 L79 cars
My 66 Beaumont, currently with a 307 in there, runs hot even on the highway. I don't know what temp it runs at because it only has light indication. The engine I'm replacing it with was in my 72 Nova and with the original 2 core rad with shroud warmed up to 180 and stayed there no matter what the situation. So I'll be installing gauges and a shroud on the rad to make sure I protect the ZZ4 from overheating in the Beaumont and am able to have an eye on the oil pressure. We'll see how it goes with that aluminium rad and won't change it out unless it doesn't perform. With the Nova being a 4sp and the Beaumont an automatic (th350), I know there will be additional engine heat due to the transmission so I'll do everything I can to hold the temp at a consistent level.
Big block or small, air or not, I'm pretty much sold on the need for a shroud on a rad.
From what I've seen, the problem arises when you switch to a long neck water pump and remove the Radiator shroud (the one in front of the rad). Even with a BIG spacer, the fan sits too far away from the rad, and cooling is dismal at low speeds. A fan shroud (behind the rad & around the fan) becomes necessary. (NOTE that with the original set up, the fan sits about 3/4 to 1 inch away from the rad, and apparently, you don't need a fan shroud)
Using the long neck water pump also required I relocate the alternator and I have a passenger side bracket off a '70 Nova.
I considered going back to the short water pump, reinstalling the radiator shroud (in front of the rad) like original, and putting the alternator back on the driver's side. This would put my fan up against the rad again and I am pretty sure this would have solved my over heating problem. But when I installed the new engine, the long water pump was brand new - the short neck one was the original...
I don't recall seeing the fan shroud on a 6 cylinder Beaumont, as shown in the drawings you posted. From the drawings, it looks like it'd be similar to the ones used on early 60's B-bodies (metal tube and brackets). I suspect you'd be limited on the fan diameter you could fit, but I'm guessing.
The fan shroud I installed is this one:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/opg-00t215r/overview/year/1966/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle
It was an easy install, but is a tight fit with my flex fan. I reduced the length of the spacer between the pump & the fan, which I consider a good thing. It could be a little more rigid, and I worried about it flexing and hitting the fan on the highway, but it has performed fine.
This one may, or may not be more rigid - it's definitely more money.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/gmk-4031-310-661/overview/year/1966/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle
I know the OPG one fits. Can't speak for the Goodmark one.
If you have a short water pump, I'd definitely try using it with the original radiator shroud (the one in front of the rad) and get your fan ~1 inch from the rad. That's the way GM did it, and apparently it worked even for BB applications. If you have the long water pump and have already removed the radiator shroud and relocated the alternator, then the fan shroud should keep things cool.
My 2 cents....
My ZZ4 has a long water pump so I have two choices, change everything else to line up and fit the long pump or use the short pump and everything else will fit.
I was looking at a new power steering pump bracket, wiring the alternator to the opposite side and new pulleys. I hadn't considered any issues with the rad spacing using the long pump.
If I use the short pump, I might have to replace the tired old short pump I have, but everything else will bolt right up.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Or will it??
As long as you have the original radiator shroud in place, and the original fan spacer, I think it should all bolt up nicely.
One thing though - the original alternator bracket bolts to the exhaust manifold on the driver's side. If you're using headers, you might have another problem...
good used 50 year old rad ? interesting The Champion brand rad on E-Bay cooled my big block very well
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1967-Chevy-Chevelle-Aluminum-3-Row-CHAMPION-Radiator-/121716619616?fits=Year%3A1967%7CMake%3AChevrolet%7CModel%3AChevelle&hash=item1c56e03960:g:yRQAAOxyeglTbT~Q&vxp=mtr
free shipping no tax no duty
Nice!!!
Just an FYI. My 66 327 did not come with a shroud. (I did upgrade the original dual core to a triple at one point though. Just barely enough room.)
The actual shroud was used in place of the finger guard when the V01 H.D. Radiator was specified (very rarely done in Canada back then, and surprisingly the Canadian 396 didn't even offer it). Notice what Mike Ward posted, it spells out what the h.d. rad included (the V01 rad was also included with C60 a/c which wasn't factory installed on Beaumonts or Canadian Chevelles until '68).
I'm surprised that you had trouble cooling with an aluminum rad since those rads can really draw off & dissipate heat. As was mentioned by others, spacing between the fan & radiator is critical. When you go back and forth between a short & long water pump, you have to make sure the fan to rad spacing is still optimal, like only 3/4 of an inch. Factory small block V8 Beaumonts used a rad spacer to push the rad back from the rad support towards the fan, plus a fan spacer. Inline sixes & big blocks didn't use the rad spacers because those engines were longer than the small blocks. I would make sure my fan spacer & rad spacer work together to provide the proper tight clearance. You also don't want to go too too long on the fan spacer (a fan clutch would go in place of the spacer if you are going to run one).
Personally I think the clutch fans are best as they don't soak up horsepower trying to spin uselessly to 5000+ RPM; they are limited to about 2000 RPM which cuts parasitic losses, noise, and is a great safety factor (think centrifugal force). The ones I don't like are the flex fans because they spin at full engine rpm, plus they flex which over time leads to fatigue. A fatigued flex fan at rpm is like a grenade and the blades can slice right through the hood or any personal body parts nearby.
I was looking to add a shroud to the replacement h.d. rad in my 67 Chevelle (inline six powered) and found that I pretty much have to contact a vendor in California to find a used one for a six. Basically the vendor told me to actually measure the rad before buying the shroud. There are repro shrouds for big blocks, plus functional equivalent ones for small blocks (that are plastic whereas the OEM small block ones were metal).
I've got the motor change done and after trying a few configurations have it running like a champ and holding temp at 180.
ZZ4 (350) installed with long water pump. Spacer between rad and cradle in place. 6 blade fan installed with no spacer. Alternator moved to passenger side with bracket used previously in my 72 Nova. Original power steering bracket modified to clear the larger balancer. Belts align perfectly.
I will be installing a shroud, to protect fingers reaching in and for optimal air movement.
Shout-out to 66 Beau for sharing his expertise and experience with this installation. It took a lot of pressure off and likely prevented me from ordering parts that I didn't need.
Don't ever shy away from asking even the simplest questions on here. The answers are out there!
unsure how accurate that is. I don't have a use for it so I would part with it if someone needs it.
Stan