Tear down, clean and lube a 60's GM wiper motor yourself.
cdnpont said
Feb 13, 2021
a421cat wrote:
Mark,
I have several 63-64 wiper motors in my shed. If you break something I will donate a unit to the cause that can be mined for parts if you think they would fit.
Bill.
Thanks Bill. So far so good.
cdnpont said
Feb 13, 2021
Drilled out the small aluminum rivets holding the brush plate in the bell. Again, to make it easier and cleaner in the bead blaster. In saying that, a good restoration house would re plate the bell. I'll paint it.
Gave the plate and breaker a good spray with contact cleaner. The brushes still have over 3/16" of life left. The manual suggests changing them below that.
I simply used some house hardware tapered head screws (from a switchplate cover of all things), nuts and flatwashers to re attach the plate. Used a dab or red locktite on each. Had to drill open the holes in the plate and bell just slightly. The screw heads fit nicely in the bell recesses and the plate aligns exactly like it did when riveted.
You can see that I'll have to re attach the stator and switch leads. Electrical experts, question; Can I snip off those solid stator leads closer to the stator and plate? Solder in a standard braided copper wire of a suitable gauge? It would give me much better flexibility when I pack it back together.
Thanks for the title edit guys. Might be a wee premature. We'll see when I test it!
One little factoid, in 66 the B body 2 speed depressed wiper went with the stator in the bell, and the brush plate in the casting. Easier for brush maintenance? and cleaner as far as the wire routing goes. You can spot a 66 and later by that round wire grommet in the case. The stator is staked in the bell, so it's likely not removable without a fight.
I have several 63-64 wiper motors in my shed. If you break something I will donate a unit to the cause that can be mined for parts if you think they would fit.
Bill.
Thanks Bill. So far so good.
Actually Bill, would one of those donor motors have a decent washer assembly? I think at least 64 is the same. I'm also in need of a unbroken ground strap. I can eBay one, but the price is just ridiculous.
While I'm at this, should I try to bring it back to the factory setup? Mine has a aftermarket washer assembly from the plate on up.
This Ternsted pump has what appears to be a timer circuit board with it. No relevance to the way it's hooked up to the pump, but I suppose it could be used as a delay in some way.
Maybe someone electronic here could identify the chip (SA555P) and the relay (FRS-10A-S10) as to the board use?
Cut the stator wires back and soldered in some flexible extension wires. When closing up the motor, I simply looped and guided the brown wires down into the two pockets between the stator and case. Yellow arrows. Important to keep any wire in the bell out of the way of the spinning armature and the bell and case edge.
Made up two clips out of soft wire, to hold back the brushes before installing the armature (below right, arrows). Once in, you just pull them out. Worked perfect. Used Super Grease on the bushing surfaces and some grease to retain the shaft end ball bearing in place.
Fit the 4 wires through the case grommet and then fit it into the bell. Keep the wires pulled to the outside. slip the armature into the stator and the shaft through the case bushing, then work the two haves together slowly adjusting the wires as you go. If you are pulling back out, push on the geared end of the shaft to prevent the armature from popping out of the brushes. Don't pull on the bell. Make sure the grommet is sitting right, then fully close the case. Fit the two retaining bolts, twist the bell side to side a little until the bolts seem squared up, then tighten them
Installed the endplay screw. Finger tight, then just a tad back. Red locktite on the screw and nut.
Greased the thrust washer and gear hub. Installed into the case. Lithium Lubriplate on the worm drive,
Cleaned up the latch coil and the terminal board (Fig. 67 in the manual illustration)). Installed them, then soldered the wires back together. There is a funny thing with the ground from the resistor on the terminal board. The lead simply drapes over a section of the case and is trapped to ground by the relay body. No connector or solder req. (fig. 68).
Here's a closeup of a new terminal board showing that lead that gets draped over in the body casting (yellow arrow), and the resistor winding (Orange arrow).
Fitted the drive shaft and latch mechanism. Greased the rear thrust washer, fitted the retainer plate, washer and the snap ring. When installing the worm gear, shaft and latch into the case, they both need to be oriented 180 degrees opposite of the latch relay to have everything come together. Just as you see in the picture (and in fig. 66). I'll mount the crank arm after the new rear sealing boot arrives and is fitted.
Testing,
....and yes, it actually works!!
Waiting on some new grommets and a new rear shaft cover seal. Might go with an original pump assembly, find and rebuild one.
It's a fun little project, easy on a previously functioning unit. Another small "Black art" defeated!
Some updates; Received a new shaft seal today, an eBay item. Quality is very good. Fitted it in place over the retainer plate, then fitted the arm. Made sure it was clocked right. It can be mounted 180 degrees out, and it's important as the wipers park with the lever in a certain spot.
Attempted to make a good washer pump out of two that I had. But both leak now. Ended up just buying a new electronic one from rock auto, AC Delco 8671 to replace the exact same one that was on my 65 motor but had a melted impeller. These pumps cannot be run dry. Seems like a reasonable alternative to the unreliable mechanical pump, especially the 1965 diaphragm version, which changed to a piston pump in 66. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=371448&jsn=3
And I've discovered the circuit board in this electronic replacement is a timer. Washer pump board has positive power key on, you press the washer button briefly once grounding the circuit, and a timer starts and runs the pump for around 3 seconds, then stops.
Do you need to wash it with something to unstick it.
cdnpont said
Feb 27, 2021
Got some new eBay grommets and bolts. Repaired the cracked ground strap by soldering it. Painted the motor bell with Dynamic brand Aluminum paint from Princess Auto (it's the best I've ever found). Used some 1/2x1/2 peel and stick foam weatherstrip for the firewall to case seal.
Mounted, it makes a nice addition to that corner of the engine bay. I couldn't have just put it back in all grungy, just wouldn't work in here.
I'll call it done.... and Another Black art busted! Hopefully this post might encourage others to restore their own motors. Don't pay anyone to do this simple job. Do it yourself. Cheers.
Thanks Bill. So far so good.
Drilled out the small aluminum rivets holding the brush plate in the bell. Again, to make it easier and cleaner in the bead blaster. In saying that, a good restoration house would re plate the bell. I'll paint it.
Gave the plate and breaker a good spray with contact cleaner. The brushes still have over 3/16" of life left. The manual suggests changing them below that.
I simply used some house hardware tapered head screws (from a switchplate cover of all things), nuts and flatwashers to re attach the plate. Used a dab or red locktite on each. Had to drill open the holes in the plate and bell just slightly. The screw heads fit nicely in the bell recesses and the plate aligns exactly like it did when riveted.
You can see that I'll have to re attach the stator and switch leads. Electrical experts, question; Can I snip off those solid stator leads closer to the stator and plate? Solder in a standard braided copper wire of a suitable gauge? It would give me much better flexibility when I pack it back together.
Thanks for the title edit guys. Might be a wee premature. We'll see when I test it!
One little factoid, in 66 the B body 2 speed depressed wiper went with the stator in the bell, and the brush plate in the casting. Easier for brush maintenance? and cleaner as far as the wire routing goes. You can spot a 66 and later by that round wire grommet in the case. The stator is staked in the bell, so it's likely not removable without a fight.
Image from a 66 service manual,
Actually Bill, would one of those donor motors have a decent washer assembly? I think at least 64 is the same. I'm also in need of a unbroken ground strap. I can eBay one, but the price is just ridiculous.
While I'm at this, should I try to bring it back to the factory setup? Mine has a aftermarket washer assembly from the plate on up.
This Ternsted pump has what appears to be a timer circuit board with it. No relevance to the way it's hooked up to the pump, but I suppose it could be used as a delay in some way.
Maybe someone electronic here could identify the chip (SA555P) and the relay (FRS-10A-S10) as to the board use?
Put it all back together today,
Cut the stator wires back and soldered in some flexible extension wires. When closing up the motor, I simply looped and guided the brown wires down into the two pockets between the stator and case. Yellow arrows. Important to keep any wire in the bell out of the way of the spinning armature and the bell and case edge.
Made up two clips out of soft wire, to hold back the brushes before installing the armature (below right, arrows). Once in, you just pull them out. Worked perfect. Used Super Grease on the bushing surfaces and some grease to retain the shaft end ball bearing in place.
Fit the 4 wires through the case grommet and then fit it into the bell. Keep the wires pulled to the outside. slip the armature into the stator and the shaft through the case bushing, then work the two haves together slowly adjusting the wires as you go. If you are pulling back out, push on the geared end of the shaft to prevent the armature from popping out of the brushes. Don't pull on the bell. Make sure the grommet is sitting right, then fully close the case. Fit the two retaining bolts, twist the bell side to side a little until the bolts seem squared up, then tighten them
Installed the endplay screw. Finger tight, then just a tad back. Red locktite on the screw and nut.
Greased the thrust washer and gear hub. Installed into the case. Lithium Lubriplate on the worm drive,
Cleaned up the latch coil and the terminal board (Fig. 67 in the manual illustration)). Installed them, then soldered the wires back together. There is a funny thing with the ground from the resistor on the terminal board. The lead simply drapes over a section of the case and is trapped to ground by the relay body. No connector or solder req. (fig. 68).
Here's a closeup of a new terminal board showing that lead that gets draped over in the body casting (yellow arrow), and the resistor winding (Orange arrow).
Fitted the drive shaft and latch mechanism. Greased the rear thrust washer, fitted the retainer plate, washer and the snap ring. When installing the worm gear, shaft and latch into the case, they both need to be oriented 180 degrees opposite of the latch relay to have everything come together. Just as you see in the picture (and in fig. 66). I'll mount the crank arm after the new rear sealing boot arrives and is fitted.
Testing,
....and yes, it actually works!!
Waiting on some new grommets and a new rear shaft cover seal. Might go with an original pump assembly, find and rebuild one.
It's a fun little project, easy on a previously functioning unit. Another small "Black art" defeated!
You continue to impress Mark. You have the guts to tackle anything and get it to work.
Plus you have the best technical threads ever!
Acadian, right? Totally different unit. The motor on the Acadians is just like a 60's GM power window motor.
Yup..know that.....but still have to tackle it and some info may cross over?
The Acadian looks much easier. Go for it and let us know!
For 66, the type "E" non depressed wiper assembly looks like a fairly simple design.
Thanks for the sticky Todd.
Some updates; Received a new shaft seal today, an eBay item. Quality is very good. Fitted it in place over the retainer plate, then fitted the arm. Made sure it was clocked right. It can be mounted 180 degrees out, and it's important as the wipers park with the lever in a certain spot.
Attempted to make a good washer pump out of two that I had. But both leak now. Ended up just buying a new electronic one from rock auto, AC Delco 8671 to replace the exact same one that was on my 65 motor but had a melted impeller. These pumps cannot be run dry. Seems like a reasonable alternative to the unreliable mechanical pump, especially the 1965 diaphragm version, which changed to a piston pump in 66. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=371448&jsn=3
And I've discovered the circuit board in this electronic replacement is a timer. Washer pump board has positive power key on, you press the washer button briefly once grounding the circuit, and a timer starts and runs the pump for around 3 seconds, then stops.
Do you need to wash it with something to unstick it.
Got some new eBay grommets and bolts. Repaired the cracked ground strap by soldering it. Painted the motor bell with Dynamic brand Aluminum paint from Princess Auto (it's the best I've ever found). Used some 1/2x1/2 peel and stick foam weatherstrip for the firewall to case seal.
Mounted, it makes a nice addition to that corner of the engine bay. I couldn't have just put it back in all grungy, just wouldn't work in here.
I'll call it done.... and Another Black art busted! Hopefully this post might encourage others to restore their own motors. Don't pay anyone to do this simple job. Do it yourself. Cheers.