Well played around most of day, finally jack up tranny and undid crossmember, installed shifter and everything is good BUT if I were to reattach crossmember the 3/4 lever will not clear crossmember so conclusion is it definitely seems to be crossmember issue. This is what I suspected months ago, so I got anouther crossmember that turned out to be the same crossmember as I already had. Mmmmmmmm I have seen some pictures and kits that had a adapter plate similar to Hurst shifter but I have also read that was for B-body cars and that A-body cars, shifter attaches directly onto tail shaft as I have it now. Baffled!?
You can't drop the shifter body down to the lower mounting holes because the rods are too long, correct? If you remove the rods and drop the shifter body down to those 2 vacant holes in the picture that also moves the body forward, because those holes are forward of the holes you have it mounted on now, correct?
I am convinced you have B body rods, they are longer than A body rods.
Give me some time to set something up this evening and then post pictures.
seventy2plus2 said
Apr 2, 2021
This ebay listing has some good photo's, including it mounted to a tranny:
To begin, ignore any wire you see in the pictures where the linkage attaches. I didn't find everything I was looking for so I just did a mockup to show you how I believe the correct setup should look.
Ok, this is what we start with, right?
Currently you have the two lower mounting holes for the shifter body in holes 2 and 3, right?
And you have nothing going through the pivot hole above that in the shifter body, right?
In my picture, I have the lower 2 bolts in the body installed into holes 4 and 5. I have the pivot bolt going through the shifter body into hole number 2.
It is my belief this is the solution to your problem but only you will be able to say for sure if that will provide the clearance you need. I would like you to measure the 3 rods, 1-2, 3-4 and reverse and tell me the length. Better yet, take pictures of them lying there against a tape measure.
I saw that listing when I was trying to find pictures but it's a T10 not a Muncie and I don't know that they use the identical linkage.
4SPEED427 said
Apr 2, 2021
68 customized wrote:
I have seen some pictures and kits that had a adapter plate similar to Hurst shifter but I have also read that was for B-body cars and that A-body cars, shifter attaches directly onto tail shaft as I have it now. Baffled!?
Yes, that is correct, no plate on the A body, shifter bolts to the tailhousing.
Islander said
Apr 3, 2021
Wow, lots of confusing information from the eBay pictures, as the shifter mounted on the ST10 has the rod reversed. The $70US set of rods from Winnipeg have definitely been altered to fit something, and probably not where you want to start.
What I do know;
The crossmember for all 64-67 Chevelle/Beaumonts with the exception(possibly) of convertibles are the same for PG, three speed, and four speed, so it is not likely the problem.
As already said the B-body rods are different, to utilize the same shifter body mounted on a plate(see attached)that raises the shifter up and back I believe. If you post a picture of the rod(s) the shape can be distinctive enough to tell. Most sellers do not know the difference.
The mounting position on the tailshaft that Carl has outlined should be correct.
On the rod that is contacting the crossmember, when the shifter is bolted in place as suggested, are you sure the shift arm on the trans is not flipped? If it is it could result in the arm being at five oclock when it should be at seven or similar misalignment, creating your clearance problem.
I have sworn at a few of these in different GM models and usually it is something very minor, like I say a shift arm tab flipped or similar. I had a Hurst in a Camaro with a mounting plate that was flipped that would not allow the car to go into reverse, I had it apart multiple times before I figured it out!
I have a shop manual and assembly manual for these but have just moved so I would have to dig them out. I will keep an eye out on here to see if you come up with a solution in the short term.
As already said the B-body rods are different, to utilize the same shifter body mounted on a plate(see attached)that raises the shifter up and back I believe.
Yes, that is exactly the B body adapter.
cdnpont said
Apr 3, 2021
B images if they might help in some way,
4SPEED427 said
Apr 13, 2021
68 customized wrote:
Just put the original old ITW, (Muncie), shifter in my 66 Beaumont and it will not cut it. Tooooo sloppy etc. so wondering if anyone has an extra Hurst shifter for Muncie 4 speed, (M20, 451 stud type) that they would willing to sell. I have a Hurst Comp Plus #3198010 but I think it is for 68-72 and not sure if there is any differance between that and 3917308. My Hurst shifter has a modified arm where teh stick bolts onto but I could reweld that would like to find the correct shifter for the car. I can get an installation kit locally if I cannot find a shifter with rods still attached.
You can't drop the shifter body down to the lower mounting holes because the rods are too long, correct? If you remove the rods and drop the shifter body down to those 2 vacant holes in the picture that also moves the body forward, because those holes are forward of the holes you have it mounted on now, correct?
I am convinced you have B body rods, they are longer than A body rods.
Give me some time to set something up this evening and then post pictures.
www.ebay.com/itm/1964-65-66-CHEVELLE-SS-MUNCIE-4-Speed-Or-T10-OEM-ITM-4-SPEED-SHIFTER-NO-TRANS/153589977500
www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-1966-1967-64-65-66-67-Chevelle-Cutlass-442-Muncie-shifter-shift-rods/265020205477
To begin, ignore any wire you see in the pictures where the linkage attaches. I didn't find everything I was looking for so I just did a mockup to show you how I believe the correct setup should look.
Ok, this is what we start with, right?
Currently you have the two lower mounting holes for the shifter body in holes 2 and 3, right?
And you have nothing going through the pivot hole above that in the shifter body, right?
In my picture, I have the lower 2 bolts in the body installed into holes 4 and 5. I have the pivot bolt going through the shifter body into hole number 2.
It is my belief this is the solution to your problem but only you will be able to say for sure if that will provide the clearance you need. I would like you to measure the 3 rods, 1-2, 3-4 and reverse and tell me the length. Better yet, take pictures of them lying there against a tape measure.
I saw that listing when I was trying to find pictures but it's a T10 not a Muncie and I don't know that they use the identical linkage.
Yes, that is correct, no plate on the A body, shifter bolts to the tailhousing.
Wow, lots of confusing information from the eBay pictures, as the shifter mounted on the ST10 has the rod reversed. The $70US set of rods from Winnipeg have definitely been altered to fit something, and probably not where you want to start.
What I do know;
The crossmember for all 64-67 Chevelle/Beaumonts with the exception(possibly) of convertibles are the same for PG, three speed, and four speed, so it is not likely the problem.
As already said the B-body rods are different, to utilize the same shifter body mounted on a plate(see attached)that raises the shifter up and back I believe. If you post a picture of the rod(s) the shape can be distinctive enough to tell. Most sellers do not know the difference.
The mounting position on the tailshaft that Carl has outlined should be correct.
On the rod that is contacting the crossmember, when the shifter is bolted in place as suggested, are you sure the shift arm on the trans is not flipped? If it is it could result in the arm being at five oclock when it should be at seven or similar misalignment, creating your clearance problem.
I have sworn at a few of these in different GM models and usually it is something very minor, like I say a shift arm tab flipped or similar. I had a Hurst in a Camaro with a mounting plate that was flipped that would not allow the car to go into reverse, I had it apart multiple times before I figured it out!
I have a shop manual and assembly manual for these but have just moved so I would have to dig them out. I will keep an eye out on here to see if you come up with a solution in the short term.
Yes, that is exactly the B body adapter.
B images if they might help in some way,
Did you get anywhere with this?