Waking up a hibernating 327 small bock after a 22 year nap.
4SPEED427 said
Sep 7, 2021
But as Vince asked, have you tried a rotation with the rockers removed and it's still jamming? Or have you just checked for open valves but not tried rotating it?
LeeRoy said
Sep 7, 2021
Sorry guys. Yes I have tried rotating it with the same result. About 330 deg rotation then a dead stop. Ditto in the opposite direction
65Camino said
Sep 7, 2021
if the cam is rotating the pushrods should be bouncing up and down.
67Poncho said
Sep 7, 2021
Hmmm.... sounds like corrosion in one cylinder? Did one of the plugs look rusty?
4SPEED427 said
Sep 7, 2021
It sounds like time to shove a camera into each cylinder. Either rusty as mentioned or something has made its way into one of the cylinders. Crazy as it sounds, a mouse can get in past an open valve on some engines. You never know...
LeeRoy said
Sep 7, 2021
67Poncho wrote:
Hmmm.... sounds like corrosion in one cylinder? Did one of the plugs look rusty?
All the plugs looked good. No oil in coolant or viceversa.
LeeRoy said
Sep 7, 2021
4SPEED427 wrote:
It sounds like time to shove a camera into each cylinder. Either rusty as mentioned or something has made its way into one of the cylinders. Crazy as it sounds, a mouse can get in past an open valve on some engines. You never know...
Engine sat as it was after it was last run. Carb was removed and intake sealed off. Only rodent access would be through exhaust. All the push rods move except a couple when the rotation stops. Lifter(s)stuck? No one agrees with my fuel pump theory? After 22 years should probably pull the motor and tear it down and refresh it? Dont want to ruin a small journal 327 screamer.
4SPEED427 said
Sep 7, 2021
The fuel pump is simple enough, maybe pull it off and see if the rod slides freely? I wouldn't use a 22 year old pump anyway, it's likely going to fail shortly if it's not already bad.
I should have explained the mouse thing, yes I meant in the exhaust valve. I saw this not long ago on an engine that had been sitting in a shed. Mouse nest in a cylinder on an engine with heads and an intake on it.
65Camino said
Sep 7, 2021
4SPEED427 wrote:
Mouse nest in a cylinder on an engine with heads and an intake on it.
It is a small block after all.
LeeRoy said
Sep 23, 2021
Update. We have free wheeling rotation! Already had the rocker arms removed so injected copious amounts of ( weasel piss) aka auto trans fluid into the cylinders and 24 hrs later voila! Rotating assembly rotates freely by hand. So the plan is to re assemble the top end and see if it will fire off. In the mean time wondering exactly what engine I am dealing with? Casting on the heads is # 3782461. # on front deck of the block is 6621765 stamped. # on rear deck of the block is cast 3858180. Hoping its a good combo to revive and improve on. Was told its a fall of 1966 production. Its not original to the car. Car was born with a 283. Build date March of 1967.
65Camino said
Sep 24, 2021
Great news !
cdnpont said
Sep 24, 2021
So the rings in one cylinder were hung up on rust?
LeeRoy said
Sep 24, 2021
cdnpont wrote:
So the rings in one cylinder were hung up on rust?
It would seem so? Spins smoothly past 360 deg either direction
jmont64 said
Sep 24, 2021
You may well already be aware but with your engine sitting that long you will want to get some oil circulating before you fire it. Probably easiest with a drill through your distributor opening.
LeeRoy said
Sep 24, 2021
jmont64 wrote:
You may well already be aware but with your engine sitting that long you will want to get some oil circulating before you fire it. Probably easiest with a drill through your distributor opening.
Absolutely. A buddy has the drill device. Stupid question from an electrician. Could I not just spin it over with the starter with the plugs out, no fuel and ignition disconnected?
seventy2plus2 said
Sep 24, 2021
LeeRoy wrote:
jmont64 wrote:
You may well already be aware but with your engine sitting that long you will want to get some oil circulating before you fire it. Probably easiest with a drill through your distributor opening.
Absolutely. A buddy has the drill device. Stupid question from an electrician. Could I not just spin it over with the starter with the plugs out, no fuel and ignition disconnected?
Using a drill and spinning the oil pump to prelube the engine will get oil pumping through the passages prior to cranking the engine over. Prelube for a minute or so, put your distributor in and try starting it.
LeeRoy said
Sep 25, 2021
seventy2plus2 wrote:
LeeRoy wrote:
jmont64 wrote:
You may well already be aware but with your engine sitting that long you will want to get some oil circulating before you fire it. Probably easiest with a drill through your distributor opening.
Absolutely. A buddy has the drill device. Stupid question from an electrician. Could I not just spin it over with the starter with the plugs out, no fuel and ignition disconnected?
Using a drill and spinning the oil pump to prelube the engine will get oil pumping through the passages prior to cranking the engine over. Prelube for a minute or so, put your distributor in and try starting it.
Thanks for the explanation re the oil pump. Have to pick up some intake and rocker cover gaskets, a new fuel pump, oil and a filter and some new coolant. Probably be a week or so till I get to try to start this sleeping mouse.
65Camino said
Sep 25, 2021
Should never start it dry. Prelube it to prevent scored bearings.
Sorry guys. Yes I have tried rotating it with the same result. About 330 deg rotation then a dead stop. Ditto in the opposite direction
Hmmm.... sounds like corrosion in one cylinder? Did one of the plugs look rusty?
All the plugs looked good. No oil in coolant or viceversa.
Engine sat as it was after it was last run. Carb was removed and intake sealed off. Only rodent access would be through exhaust. All the push rods move except a couple when the rotation stops. Lifter(s)stuck? No one agrees with my fuel pump theory? After 22 years should probably pull the motor and tear it down and refresh it? Dont want to ruin a small journal 327 screamer.
I should have explained the mouse thing, yes I meant in the exhaust valve. I saw this not long ago on an engine that had been sitting in a shed. Mouse nest in a cylinder on an engine with heads and an intake on it.
It is a small block after all.
Update. We have free wheeling rotation! Already had the rocker arms removed so injected copious amounts of ( weasel piss) aka auto trans fluid into the cylinders and 24 hrs later voila! Rotating assembly rotates freely by hand. So the plan is to re assemble the top end and see if it will fire off. In the mean time wondering exactly what engine I am dealing with? Casting on the heads is # 3782461. # on front deck of the block is 6621765 stamped. # on rear deck of the block is cast 3858180. Hoping its a good combo to revive and improve on. Was told its a fall of 1966 production. Its not original to the car. Car was born with a 283. Build date March of 1967.
So the rings in one cylinder were hung up on rust?
It would seem so? Spins smoothly past 360 deg either direction
Absolutely. A buddy has the drill device. Stupid question from an electrician. Could I not just spin it over with the starter with the plugs out, no fuel and ignition disconnected?
Using a drill and spinning the oil pump to prelube the engine will get oil pumping through the passages prior to cranking the engine over. Prelube for a minute or so, put your distributor in and try starting it.
Thanks for the explanation re the oil pump. Have to pick up some intake and rocker cover gaskets, a new fuel pump, oil and a filter and some new coolant. Probably be a week or so till I get to try to start this sleeping mouse.