I have the shot of that engine over with the guy I use to get paint. He will set me up with a paint number soon thats as close as possible to that. The one that I have tried allready was kinda trial and error..mostly error.
...mostly error or horror? (sorry, I want to try if I can do 2 joke in english in a row...)
Fitz.
Rolilk said
Feb 19, 2009
ROFL..
Rolilk said
Feb 19, 2009
Hey did you see these I picked up a set awhile back.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=370157580909
Fitz said
Feb 19, 2009
no, I will take the # of the item because your link don't work, and I'll come back.
Fitz.
Fitz said
Feb 19, 2009
Rolilk wrote:
Hey did you see these I picked up a set awhile back.
when did you the work, recently? Was it only the one valve that gave you the trouble overheating, or all of them? If I'm correct it looks like the intake valves?
-- Edited by Rolilk at 02:29, 2009-02-20
Fitz said
Feb 20, 2009
Rolilk wrote:
when did you the work, recently? Was it only the one valve that gave you the trouble overheating, or all of them? If I'm correct it looks like the intake valves?
-- Edited by Rolilk at 02:29, 2009-02-20
I did the work last automn. I don't know why you ask me about a overheating problem. I had overheating problem only once, when I first start this engine, and at this time, I replace the radiator core. I had the original one...
This is an exhaust valve, in my engine it was the #6 cyl. ex. valve.
Rolilk said
Feb 20, 2009
I stand corrected, thanks.
Fitz said
Feb 22, 2009
there is picture of the master cylinder, clean and paint with a new kit inside. The bore was a bit corroded, but not enough to replace or resleeve it.
Nice job with the master cylinder. It looks like a complete new one. When I first got the car last Sept, I had to redo the master. Not too bad like yours but fairly easy to do. Thats one thing I love about these cars the parts are simple and are built with parts that are meant to just work. Nothing too complicated. And alot of parts like fuel and brake lines are easy to make.
For me though the engine I still dont know all that well. And it looks like the tourque tube is ok but might be some fun putting in the seals by the tranny.
Fitz said
Feb 24, 2009
you are right, they are fairly easy to fix those car.
I'll bring at my new home soon, the transmission. So I'll be able to open it and check for worn parts and when the "old" house will be sold, I'll ready to order parts.
fun in sight!
Fitz.
Rolilk said
Feb 24, 2009
When you did your seals on your tourque tube did you put in the seals? Are they as hard as they describe? From what I see you need some sort of tool to set the inner seal in to the right spot.
-- Edited by Rolilk at 19:35, 2009-02-24
Fitz said
Feb 24, 2009
I'm not very sure of what you talking about. You know I'm french and sometime is hard for me to follow correctly a story, I'm sorry.
To help me to understand, what seal you are talking about, the one at the end of the drive shaft (trans. side) or those for the axle?
Fitz.
Rolilk said
Feb 24, 2009
The trans side. Sorry
Fitz said
Feb 25, 2009
I did not replace the seal in the torque tube at the trans side, because the bushing inside is OK, but I'll as soon as the money came back because the seal inside is probably to old to avoid trans. oil to go along the tube and fill the diff. When I parked the car for the restoration, the seal was OK but I don't want to take chance.
You have to use a tool to remove the bushing, the seal will come with the bushing. The bushing\seal kit sell for about 65$ at NCA of Chevy of the 40's.
I'll replace it this summer and let you show how as soon as possible.
Fitz.
Fitz.
those here in Québec, are easy to find, I don't know why...
Fitz.
Fitz.
Fitz.
-- Edited by Rolilk at 02:29, 2009-02-20
This is an exhaust valve, in my engine it was the #6 cyl. ex. valve.
Fitz.
I'll bring at my new home soon, the transmission. So I'll be able to open it and check for worn parts and when the "old" house will be sold, I'll ready to order parts.
fun in sight!
Fitz.
-- Edited by Rolilk at 19:35, 2009-02-24
To help me to understand, what seal you are talking about, the one at the end of the drive shaft (trans. side) or those for the axle?
Fitz.
You have to use a tool to remove the bushing, the seal will come with the bushing. The bushing\seal kit sell for about 65$ at NCA of Chevy of the 40's.
I'll replace it this summer and let you show how as soon as possible.
Fitz.
http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/13138.html
this is what you are looking for about replacement of your seal/bushing in the torque tube.
Fitz.
The problem also with this bushing it is the drive shaft moving into. Sometime some noise come from this place.
Fitz.
Your seal is leaking and the trans. fluid fill the diff?
Not quite sure what you mean?
If you are experience leak outside the "ball", it is not your seal/bushing.
If your diff is correctly leveled, your seal/bushing would be OK.
There is a gasket kit for the "ball" at the end of the transmission.
Fitz.
Let me know if you need a link to.
I had to fill both trans and diff. But they were probably not checked for some time.
-- Edited by Rolilk at 21:06, 2009-03-03
-- Edited by Rolilk at 21:08, 2009-03-03
-- Edited by Rolilk at 21:15, 2009-03-03
Fitz.