I'd say you are good to go Jim. Just put that inline 10lb in the rear line, hook it all up, bleed, get pedal and you should be good to go. I know you are a ways away yet, but you should consider Russel Speed bleeder fittings, at least on the front. They're the trick..
Use DOT3 or 4 fluid (either is fine and mixable). Buy it in a 4L jug, You'll need most of it. Cover all that nice painted stuff underhood (and the fender) to protect it from fluid spills. Ask me how I know.
With all the new connections you've made, you're likely to get at least one or two weepy fittings. Just carefully re-tighten as is obvious and you should be good. Maybe you'll be blessed and not have any! We're rooting for you.
When on the road, if you're installing that rear adjustable valve, adjust it full pressure to start (fully clockwise). Go bed the brakes in carefully over a few days.
When ready, try some panic stops that intentionally lock the rears. Slowly, one turn at a time, (count you turns out) adjust that valve counterclockwise until you JUST get rid of the rear lockup. I did this on my 67 and it worked perfect.
Take some pictures of the work.
66sdguy said
Apr 14, 2023
Thanks Mark. Sage advice here. At this point I am awaiting the residual valve to arrive. It is a Russell speed product. I am attempting to discern the port size on the residual valve so I can prepare the flare of the master cylinder rear brake line in advance. I may call Russell to confirm the port size on their valve.My hunch is 1/4 inch. I will keep you apprised of my progress. At this point I am mostly stalled until I determine the port size on the residual valve or it finally arrives which ever comes first. One thing about this type of site. When a person seeks assistance on a project they kind of lay their ignorance of the project they are undertaking bare for all to see. I appreciate your patience and time in this matter. Although i have experience in other mechanical tasks on my collector cars, bakes are a new animal to me.Creating and teaching a 1 3 1 neutral zone defense, or numerous zone breakout strategies in competitive hockey? No problem for me as I have years of experience coaching competitive hockey and building teams. If this were a competitive hockey site I could offer some guidance in that regard. Alas it is not. But I am learning as I go here. Thanks again.
oshawacliff said
Apr 14, 2023
oshawacliff wrote:
Now it's time to decide on brake fluid.
..
Mark beat me to it. Good advice.
Here is a link that list pros and cons.
Just a little more info for a novice while you are waiting for the real work to begin.
Brake fluid is CORROSIVE AND HAS NO MERCY WHEN YOU GET IT ON PAINTED SURFACES.
Cover every possible thing that could come in contact with it. Even where you put the lid off the bottle.
I'd say you are good to go Jim. Just put that inline 10lb in the rear line, hook it all up, bleed, get pedal and you should be good to go. I know you are a ways away yet, but you should consider Russel Speed bleeder fittings, at least on the front. They're the trick..
Use DOT3 or 4 fluid (either is fine and mixable). Buy it in a 4L jug, You'll need most of it. Cover all that nice painted stuff underhood (and the fender) to protect it from fluid spills. Ask me how I know.
With all the new connections you've made, you're likely to get at least one or two weepy fittings. Just carefully re-tighten as is obvious and you should be good. Maybe you'll be blessed and not have any! We're rooting for you.
When on the road, if you're installing that rear adjustable valve, adjust it full pressure to start (fully clockwise). Go bed the brakes in carefully over a few days.
When ready, try some panic stops that intentionally lock the rears. Slowly, one turn at a time, (count you turns out) adjust that valve counterclockwise until you JUST get rid of the rear lockup. I did this on my 67 and it worked perfect.
Take some pictures of the work.
Thanks Mark. Sage advice here. At this point I am awaiting the residual valve to arrive. It is a Russell speed product. I am attempting to discern the port size on the residual valve so I can prepare the flare of the master cylinder rear brake line in advance. I may call Russell to confirm the port size on their valve.My hunch is 1/4 inch. I will keep you apprised of my progress. At this point I am mostly stalled until I determine the port size on the residual valve or it finally arrives which ever comes first. One thing about this type of site. When a person seeks assistance on a project they kind of lay their ignorance of the project they are undertaking bare for all to see. I appreciate your patience and time in this matter. Although i have experience in other mechanical tasks on my collector cars, bakes are a new animal to me.Creating and teaching a 1 3 1 neutral zone defense, or numerous zone breakout strategies in competitive hockey? No problem for me as I have years of experience coaching competitive hockey and building teams. If this were a competitive hockey site I could offer some guidance in that regard. Alas it is not. But I am learning as I go here. Thanks again.
You fittings on the Russel check valve are 3/8-24 inverted flare.
It's the most common fitting and tube nut size for a 3/16" line in most pre metric brake systems.
Thought you might like to see this Mark so I took a photo.
Photo
Very nice. I am partial to blue.
Love the fact that the wheel openings have the trim and the spinner hubcaps.
Going to be a nice project. Looks real solid.
Cliff
Nice Jim. Are you going over to the other side? Or is this just a "spotted".
Just a spotted Mark. My buddy had a 62 Parisienne ragtop in 1976. Always liked the big boats.