On the Gp, with light pedal application at low speeds, the brake pedal would drop to the floor, a quick pump and it would be back. Even with the drop, I'd still have some braking power. The brakes overall work excellent, no pulling, no leaks and I'm actually very impressed with them. Makes me wonder why the obsession with discs on a cruiser.
Removing the master cap, there's a quick pop or hiss, and a good bit of fluid runs out of the front system resevoir. The rear resevoir is really low.
I expected to see it low, but why was the front system overfull?
Is the master bypassing? Can the fluid leave one resevoir and carry over to the other?
I'm just about to take it out, I'll see what happens with the fluid at the correct level.
Mark.
ss acadian 350 said
Oct 26, 2009
you need a master !! cheap an easy to fix
4SPEED427 said
Oct 26, 2009
Ditto to all the above. Don't even spend time looking elsewhere. You should be under 50 bucks and it's an easy fix. Makes sense on a car that has been parked. You may find wheel cylinder troubles too.
cdnpont said
Oct 26, 2009
Thanks guys, I thought so. I'd done many masters way back, but I've been out of the "replacing the master" loop for about 20 years or so. Lots of theory and new stuff on the project car, but no actual driving anything 40 years old.
The master looks non original, and the lines down to the dist block look like they have been replaced at one time. The rust on the master looks recent, and the lines look like they were made up in the dark!
Any hints on where to buy, or does it not matter much anymore?
Canadian Poncho said
Oct 26, 2009
I got mine at Carquest. Something like $65 bucks
427carl said
Oct 26, 2009
69Laurentian wrote:
I got mine at Carquest. Something like $65 bucks
You might need a new master duh
-- Edited by 427carl on Monday 26th of October 2009 08:25:14 PM
cdnpont said
Oct 26, 2009
Why a booster Carl?
I took the car out tonight for a spin, and the pedal is no different, why does it seem to fall randomly?
4SPEED427 said
Oct 26, 2009
Check with NAPA as well if you have one there. They usually have a good price on masters in Manitoba anyway.
We also have Auto Value that is priced well on masters.
67Poncho said
Oct 26, 2009
Here is NAPA's............... With descriptions of each!!
Features & Benefits:100% Computer Tested For Guaranteed Performance Every Time.,Features & Benefits - 2:100% OE Quality New Seals Are Installed On Every Unit For OE Performance And Reliability.,Features & Benefits - 3:Cast Iron Master Cylinders Come With Premium Phosphate Coating To Extend On-Car And On-Shelf Life.
Features & Benefits:Compatible with DOT Approved Silicone or Glycol-Based Brake Fluids.,Features & Benefits:High Quality Rubber, Smooth Bore Finishes and Properly Threaded Outlet Ports Ensure Trouble-Free Operation.,Features & Benefits:Reservoir Fluid Level Switches Included Where Necessary.,Product Features:Designed to Match O.E. Fit, Form and Function.,Line Thread Size:(1) 1/2" - 20 & (1) 9/16" - 18,Brake Cylinder Bore Size:1",# of Line Ports:2
-- Edited by 67Poncho on Tuesday 27th of October 2009 12:00:00 AM
4SPEED427 said
Oct 26, 2009
Not sure about there but you don't usually have to pay list at NAPA here in Manitoba I don't think.
67Poncho said
Oct 27, 2009
Carl Stevenson wrote:
Not sure about there but you don't usually have to pay list at NAPA here in Manitoba I don't think.
I don't pay list either as I am a jobber and I get trade.... But that is "suggested" list!! You just lean on those parts guys to sharpen their pencils!!!! (lol)
cdnpont said
Oct 27, 2009
Thanks Vince, Carl. Big price diff between the reman and new... But I'm old school and am of the belief that you actually get what you pay for. Will it actually matter with a master?
I have a good Carquest pretty much next door to me, and I never pay list.
Do these lines from the master look original? They look like crap, but then again I've seen some strange looking lines from the factory. I think I might make up a new pair with some nice neat loops...I can't help it!
-- Edited by cdnpont on Tuesday 27th of October 2009 12:23:05 AM
jmont64 said
Oct 27, 2009
List price is almost a game for most of the suppliers. I bought a new one, not remanned, from a supplier here for $76 last week for my son's truck and they give me a decent discount but nothing like the shops get. Remanned was $20 less, my guy told me I was crazy to even consider it. When I heard the price I didn't consider it at all. That stuff is cheaper than it ever was.
4SPEED427 said
Oct 27, 2009
And I've never bought a new master yet, always reman. So far, 100% success rate.
So there you have it. Advice both ways. Now aren't you sorry you asked???!!!
67Poncho said
Oct 27, 2009
Here is something else for you to consider.... I use to rebuild these things....WHY????
Yes, our sales of wheel cylinder cups is now nil. We have about 10 of each size in our assortment and I never sell them. Full bore, max, list price for a rear cylinder for our Roadmaster sedan is about 17 bucks I think!
67Poncho said
Oct 27, 2009
My 2+2 Coupe does the same thing... I installed discs on this one and the master is cheaper!!! Will have to order one!!!
Do these lines from the master look original? They look like crap, but then again I've seen some strange looking lines from the factory. I think I might make up a new pair with some nice neat loops...I can't help it!
-- Edited by cdnpont on Tuesday 27th of October 2009 12:23:05 AM
They look original to me.... But I will have to take a look at mine again though!!!
4SPEED427 said
Oct 27, 2009
I think those have been changed.
cdnpont said
Oct 27, 2009
Both have some slight kinks in them. On that subject, can the old line fittings, if in good shape, be re-used on newly flared lines? Maybe it's not worth the trouble to bother trying?
67Poncho said
Oct 27, 2009
I am sure those lines would be original.... With this low mile car being kept in a time capsule, why would they have changed them??? These rarely go and I am sure the undercarriage ones would need changing long before these ones would.
I will get pics of mine to compare. I would reuse the old fittings as some of then are of a 1/4 or 3/16 inner diameter but the outer will be a larger diameter versus what normally comes on those lines.
When I put a dual master cyl on my '66 Chief, I had to use the rear fitting nut off the '69 I harvested it from, cut the rear line on the '66 and replace the nut then reflare. Same inner diameter, but different outer!
rabbit64cs said
Oct 27, 2009
here's a pic from my 67 Grande,, bad pic , but the lines look much like yours.
Removing the master cap, there's a quick pop or hiss, and a good bit of fluid runs out of the front system resevoir. The rear resevoir is really low.
I expected to see it low, but why was the front system overfull?
Is the master bypassing? Can the fluid leave one resevoir and carry over to the other?
I'm just about to take it out, I'll see what happens with the fluid at the correct level.
Mark.
The master looks non original, and the lines down to the dist block look like they have been replaced at one time. The rust on the master looks recent, and the lines look like they were made up in the dark!
Any hints on where to buy, or does it not matter much anymore?
-- Edited by 427carl on Monday 26th of October 2009 08:25:14 PM
Why a booster Carl?
I took the car out tonight for a spin, and the pedal is no different, why does it seem to fall randomly?
Search Type: Job
Job: Brake Master Cylinder Replacement
Vehicle Type: Automobile/Light Trucks
Year: 1967
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Caprice
Brake System: 4 Wheel Drum Brakes
Vehicle Name:
Product
Order
Qty
Per Car
# In
Stock
Qty
Suggested
List
Core
Cost
Brake Master Cylinder - Remfd
Brake Master Cylinder - New
Left Side
Right Side
-- Edited by 67Poncho on Tuesday 27th of October 2009 12:00:00 AM
I don't pay list either as I am a jobber and I get trade.... But that is "suggested" list!! You just lean on those parts guys to sharpen their pencils!!!! (lol)
Big price diff between the reman and new... But I'm old school and am of the belief that you actually get what you pay for. Will it actually matter with a master?
I have a good Carquest pretty much next door to me, and I never pay list.
Do these lines from the master look original? They look like crap, but then again I've seen some strange looking lines from the factory. I think I might make up a new pair with some nice neat loops...I can't help it!
-- Edited by cdnpont on Tuesday 27th of October 2009 12:23:05 AM
Like jmont64 said.... Cheap.................
Search Type: Category
Category: Brake Systems
Subcategory: Wheel Cylinders & Kits
Vehicle Type: Automobile/Light Trucks
Year: 1967
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Caprice
Brake System: 4 Wheel Drum Brakes
Vehicle Name:
Product
Order
Qty
Per Car
# In
Stock
Qty
Suggested
List
Core
Cost
Wheel Cylinder - Left Front
Wheel Cylinder - Right Front
Wheel Cylinder - Rear
Wheel Cylinder Kit - Front
Wheel Cylinder Kit - Rear
Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Screw - Rear
Search Type: Category
Category: Brake Systems
Subcategory: Master Cylinders, Kits & Proportioning Valves
Vehicle Type: Automobile/Light Trucks
Year: 1967
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Caprice
Brake System: Front Disc / Rear Drum Brakes
Vehicle Name:
Product
Order
Qty
Per Car
# In
Stock
Qty
Suggested
List
Core
Cost
Brake Master Cylinder - Remfd
I will get pics of mine to compare. I would reuse the old fittings as some of then are of a 1/4 or 3/16 inner diameter but the outer will be a larger diameter versus what normally comes on those lines.
When I put a dual master cyl on my '66 Chief, I had to use the rear fitting nut off the '69 I harvested it from, cut the rear line on the '66 and replace the nut then reflare. Same inner diameter, but different outer!