I tried beating it from behind with a sledge hammer and a 2X4, heating the drum, beating some more, soaked behind the wheel where it's stuck on drum..still no joy ?

I'll pull a page out of Carl's book-take the wheel nuts off

Nuts are off...I'm off too ... LOL !

swear at it, hit it again, walk away and then come back the next day and give it a little tap and it will just fall off, always works for me!! LOL

Yes, I guess...soaking it overnite now..

If you don't care about saving the drum, keep smacking with a sledge and eventually it splits. Just ask 66 Grande Guy about the time he came to Gimli to tow home the 66 that had seized drums............

Usually guys have a hard time getting a drum off. If it's just the wheel I am usually able to get it off by giving it a good blow with the bottom of my foot or a sledge if need be. You may want to leave a wheel nut on loose to keep the wheel from hitting the car when it comes loose. You will need to hit the inflated tire and not the rim itself.

This wheel hasn't come off in years... it's seized on the drum, I broke a stud too... honeycomb wheel on my 1973 Grand Am parts car, the 4 tires are rotted deflated.

-- Edited by pontorquer on Sunday 14th of November 2010 09:04:45 PM

leave the lugs real loose,, and drop the car down off the jack as fast as possible, usually hitting the tire with a sledge at the bottom will do the trick....but??? you could also leave the lugs loose and drag the car around a bit? do the same thing?? but give a little extra lateral force....

It means I got to take the jack stands off and put the other wheel on the rearend LOL ! Thanks for the tip, I'll try if hitting it doesn't do the trick tomorrow.

-- Edited by pontorquer on Sunday 14th of November 2010 09:24:52 PM

If you are soaking it .....  it will come off tomorrow........

Sorry, I misunderstood. I read it to mean the drum the first time. Obviously I was not paying attention in class! Do you need to save the rim?

For sure, I want to save my honeycomb wheel.

 Put a block and a floor jack under the rim and  lifting the weight of the car should break it.

-- Edited by 455gto on Sunday 14th of November 2010 10:12:26 PM

Put the water hose to it over night or if your environmentally friendly, put a bucket under neath with a small pump to keep water flowing over it. My dad said they used to drag the farm equipment into the dugout (cultivator etc,) for a few days then all the bolts would come right off. I've done this with under the box spare tire winches, they took about three weeks, but it worked. If you think water is too simple you could try a can of Coke?!

The trick is to jack the car up a bit to get a angle for the 2X4 up on the rim edge from the inside. Block the 2X4 up on the other side off of the ground and stand on it. Standing on it stops the 2x4 from jumping. Smack that sun of a gun!!!!!

Still seized , i see that it is stucked around the axle flange, the honeycomb wheel has a middle tube fused around it...I'll take the pin out of the carrier C clip off and pound the axle in, this will work. 

hopefully you will have enough free play to get the c clip out, remember, you have to push the axle in to do this, the drum will most likely hit the shoes first. seeing that the posi housing is in bad shape , it may be easier for you to undo the main caps and wiggle it too the side... my 2 cents...

I know you've smacked it a bunch already but get something like a 12" x 24" flat metal plate that's an inch or so thick and hold it up covering as much of the inside edge of the rim as possible and sledge it a few times, rotating and trying in a few different positions.. Obviously the plate needs to be metal so none of the hit is absorbed like it would be w/ wood also deflate the tire if necessary to get a flat surface against the rim... If no love, use the above plate but add a bumper jack w/ a length o' pipe between rear rims or brace against the frame or whatever else on the one side you can access.. Jack 'er up with not too much tension that'd bend the rim and leave under tension overnight.. Hopefully all's on the ground in the morning and you're the winner but if not, add a click or more to the jack if you can again not enough to bend the rim and try a couple o' smacks!. If no go, rotate and repeat.. Also if you think the studs may be part of the problem and holding the drum/rim, give them a hit in so they're free, you can pop 'em back or replace later.. Have fun!. ~

Hub centric rims are a pain, particularly when alloy . Even driving about with backed off lug nuts is only a 50/50 shot these days. On my old Caravan, what I did was put my biggest gear puller on it ....cinched it up tight .. but not tight enough to damage the rim ... then used a 10lbs wood mallet (basically a lump of 4x4 on a sledge handle) to beat on it. Every third strike, add more tension to the puller. (the fact that you're able to tighten the puller tells you if it's working or not). Never failed me yet.

I tried most of you guys suggestions...Wheel still not coming off... lol. Also the carrier pin is grooved beyond belief in the spider gears so not coming off either aaarrrgh ! I'm going to remove the whole rearend and make things easier for me... here's a pic of the wheel and the huge pry bar I borrowed from work today... I don't have a puller.

Of course when the brakes are done, they are set to have a bit of drag on them? What if you backed them off with the adjuster wheel? Or is it all just rusted up and seized tighter than Billy Be Damned in there? If all else fails; re-read all the suggestions above until one of them works for you! LOL!

The middle hole of the honeycomb wheel is a tube fused around the axle flange...