Hey everyone i was just wondering if I'm going to have an issue installing my front coil springs...like would i have to compress them at all....And some good news i found my front end... i forgot where it was..... so i looked in my parts shed and in the basement then i found it in a tarp under the deck lol good times
2drpost said
Apr 29, 2011
without the weight of the body and engine, you will need to compress them.
carbuff2007 said
Apr 29, 2011
I'd get them compressed, believe me its a lot easier, especially in your case as you got the body of the frame, some garages won't compress them but for there own use because of liability in case the straps break and u get hurt, if u know someone in the business they wfill probably compress them for u. KEEP BUILDING
cdnpont said
Apr 29, 2011
I install mine on bare chassis. Still alive.
Ancient Chinese secret.....
Unless very stiff F41 BB spring, can make without fear Grasshopper.
New sunrise perhaps reveal path if patient.
68sd said
Apr 29, 2011
we did mine with the F40 springs ,i was afraid to go near the spring compressor it was so tight!
jonathanD said
Apr 30, 2011
cdnpont wrote:
I install mine on bare chassis. Still alive.
Ancient Chinese secret.....
Unless very stiff F41 BB spring, can make without fear Grasshopper.
New sunrise perhaps reveal path if patient.
lol that makes perfect sense now =)
cdnpont said
Apr 30, 2011
Here's my rather long take on this, hope you at least get somthing from it!
Yes, it can be tough in your case when you don't have a body or engine in place to weigh everything down. Usually you only have to get the spring compressed only far enough to get it in place, and use a floor jack under the lower arm working against the bodyweight to lift it up to the point you can get the upper balljoint into the spindle. So with a bare chassis, you pretty much have to get the spring compressed enough to get everything to come together without the jack.
Assuming you're using you're old standard SB springs, you should have little trouble compressing them enough, even with a cheap Princess Auto compressor. The trick is to get the spring compressed in such a way as to take the curve that it will see when installed. If it ends up staight, you'll have a Bit&* of a time bringing it together. Fitting the compressor exactly as below will get you that curve, and it will fit in the pockets correctly. Fit the compressor in spring (it's fussy to get right), tighten it to the point you can no longer keep the entire spring from turning, make sure the arms stay centered in the spring and the rod slightly offset. Lay the spring on a bench, with a helper holding it down(always nice), place a long bar through the spring across one set of arms (to keep it from turning) and slowly complete the compresson. Test fit it often to get it compressed just to the point it can all come together (you can fit the upper balljoint nut), not more. Use a powerbar to tighten, not an impact gun. Pay attention to the threads and arms on the compressor, make sure they don't begin to gall (use lube) and the arms stay positioned and hooked correctly. If in doubt, stop and redo! Don't drop it when compressed!
If you have a engine hoist, there is another option. Bring the hoist it in from the side, with the arm and hook directly above the bottom arm, around the point of the balljoint. You then chain or HD ratchet strap around the hoist legs and the frame, either side of the suspension. Fit your spindle and lower balljoint in place, fit the partially compressed spring in place, chain up around the bottom arm to the hoist hook, and begin carefully raising it. Bit by bit raise it, making sure the spring is oriented correctly untill the point you can fit the upper balljoint through the spindle. Get at least 1/2 the depth of the balljoint nut on, release the hoist. Tighten the nuts. Back off the spring compressor and remove through the shock hole.
I think you'll have no trouble with older standard springs Johnathan, like I said before, F40/41 or BB springs can be scary to install without the weight of the car to help. Many choose to have them compressed and banded at a shop to make it easier. They then cut the straps when it's all safely together.
Work safe and slowly, respect the energy stored in the spring, don't over compress, and always wear safety glasses.
Cheers, Mark
grande jim said
Apr 30, 2011
Way to go Mark!!!...great directions..and Pictures!!
Captain Beaumont said
Apr 30, 2011
Yes exellent! - but i didn't know you were chinese
Turn2Stone said
Apr 30, 2011
Indeed excellent instruction! I thought he was Russian?
unclebernie said
Apr 30, 2011
Does Canadian Tire still offer their loan a tool program? Maybe they have the tool to do this......
cdnpont said
Apr 30, 2011
Captain Beaumont wrote:
Yes exellent! - but i didn't know you were chinese
Not me, but most of my tools are
69-Tin Indian said
May 3, 2011
Quickly as you can......snatch the tools from Mark's hand! OH! TOO LATE! Not quick enough Weedhopper!!!
68sd said
May 3, 2011
yes , you pay what the tool is worth new ,and get it back when you return it.
they do this to stop all the return after one use tool items
Lefty said
May 3, 2011
I have on in the lower mainland if anyone needs to borrow one
Hey everyone i was just wondering if I'm going to have an issue installing my front coil springs...like would i have to compress them at all....And some good news i found my front end... i forgot where it was..... so i looked in my parts shed and in the basement then i found it in a tarp under the deck lol good times
without the weight of the body and engine, you will need to compress them.
I install mine on bare chassis. Still alive.
Ancient Chinese secret.....
Unless very stiff F41 BB spring, can make without fear Grasshopper.
New sunrise perhaps reveal path if patient.
we did mine with the F40 springs ,i was afraid to go near the spring compressor it was so tight!
lol that makes perfect sense now =)
Here's my rather long take on this, hope you at least get somthing from it!
Yes, it can be tough in your case when you don't have a body or engine in place to weigh everything down. Usually you only have to get the spring compressed only far enough to get it in place, and use a floor jack under the lower arm working against the bodyweight to lift it up to the point you can get the upper balljoint into the spindle. So with a bare chassis, you pretty much have to get the spring compressed enough to get everything to come together without the jack.
Assuming you're using you're old standard SB springs, you should have little trouble compressing them enough, even with a cheap Princess Auto compressor. The trick is to get the spring compressed in such a way as to take the curve that it will see when installed. If it ends up staight, you'll have a Bit&* of a time bringing it together. Fitting the compressor exactly as below will get you that curve, and it will fit in the pockets correctly. Fit the compressor in spring (it's fussy to get right), tighten it to the point you can no longer keep the entire spring from turning, make sure the arms stay centered in the spring and the rod slightly offset. Lay the spring on a bench, with a helper holding it down(always nice), place a long bar through the spring across one set of arms (to keep it from turning) and slowly complete the compresson. Test fit it often to get it compressed just to the point it can all come together (you can fit the upper balljoint nut), not more. Use a powerbar to tighten, not an impact gun. Pay attention to the threads and arms on the compressor, make sure they don't begin to gall (use lube) and the arms stay positioned and hooked correctly. If in doubt, stop and redo! Don't drop it when compressed!
If you have a engine hoist, there is another option. Bring the hoist it in from the side, with the arm and hook directly above the bottom arm, around the point of the balljoint. You then chain or HD ratchet strap around the hoist legs and the frame, either side of the suspension. Fit your spindle and lower balljoint in place, fit the partially compressed spring in place, chain up around the bottom arm to the hoist hook, and begin carefully raising it. Bit by bit raise it, making sure the spring is oriented correctly untill the point you can fit the upper balljoint through the spindle. Get at least 1/2 the depth of the balljoint nut on, release the hoist. Tighten the nuts. Back off the spring compressor and remove through the shock hole.
I think you'll have no trouble with older standard springs Johnathan, like I said before, F40/41 or BB springs can be scary to install without the weight of the car to help. Many choose to have them compressed and banded at a shop to make it easier. They then cut the straps when it's all safely together.
Work safe and slowly, respect the energy stored in the spring, don't over compress, and always wear safety glasses.
Cheers, Mark
Yes exellent! - but i didn't know you were chinese
Not me, but most of my tools are
yes , you pay what the tool is worth new ,and get it back when you return it.
they do this to stop all the return after one use tool items
I have on in the lower mainland if anyone needs to borrow one
