Well i was compressing the spring with the princess auto spring compresser and it failed badly i only had the spring compressed 2 inchs and bang it broke...... thankfully it was in place and did not bounch at us soo thats the good part... OK now could i put an engine in a frame without front suspension then compress the spring with a jack and the weight of the engine?.. i would like to avoid compressing the springs at home...
Canadian Poncho said
May 5, 2011
I'd be taking that compressor back to Princess Auto and raising hell with the manager!
cdnpont said
May 5, 2011
Glad you're ok.
What part broke?
beaumontguru said
May 5, 2011
Ya, that should work.
I did a similar thing a few years ago, i just so happened to have a pile of shingles in the driveway at the time, so i piled them all on the front of my frame to simulate the engine and body wieght, then installed the front springs as normal.
TINY said
May 5, 2011
jonathanD wrote:
Well i was compressing the spring with the princess auto spring compresser and it failed badly i only had the spring compressed 2 inchs and bang it broke...... thankfully it was in place and did not bounch at us soo thats the good part... OK now could i put an engine in a frame without front suspension then compress the spring with a jack and the weight of the engine?.. i would like to avoid compressing the springs at home...
Take the springs to a spring shop and get them banded if you dont have a good compressor way more safe. I think you will fing the weight of the engine is still not enough unless you got a few good freinds to sit on the fram aswell.
65sssd said
May 5, 2011
I had a friend look at my cheesy spring compressor and lent me a good one that goes through the shock tower instead. It works great and kept me safe. I have no idea where he got it.
rabbit64cs said
May 5, 2011
I always run a chain through the spring , then attach the other end looped around something solid,,like the car frame, work bench....SOLID ! then I use the spring compressor...
IF there is a failure , it cannot become a projectile, AND take out your HEAD !
Springs have a huge amount of stored energy ! as we say at work , LOCK OUT all energy sources , springs included.
Another trick way, is use an old axle and a hydraulic press, drop the axle through the spring, and preload, chain it on 2 sides once the preload has been set. THEN remove the safety chain that you put around the spring and press at the start.
DANO65 said
May 6, 2011
I'll see tonight if I have my old chilton manual at home and copy for you with pictures. These front ends 65-70 B body dont come apart the way most people think. You DO NOT split the ball joints to remove the spring. You undo the lower inner pivot, and release the spring pressure that way.
So to re-install the springs, attach the upper control arm to the frame, attach the spindle to the upper, attach the lower ball joint to the spindle. You'll need a short piece of 2x4 about 6 inches long. Cut a 45 degree off 1 corner. Now place the 2x4 on top off your floor jack, must be a larger good one, no little trolley jacks allowed,staright in from the side,on a smooth surface, and place the pointed end of the 2x4 against the inner bushing. Set the spring in the perch and on the lower perch. Now slowly pump up the jack. Every thing will swing into place, guide the lower up into the frame, don't force it, it should slide up easy, a couple of taps one way or the other should start it. Now install the lower pivot/camber pin. Now you can attach the strut rod and shock.
You'll need the engine and at least another 300lbs or so with a bare frame. I've done it with a big block and some extra weight on a bare frame, easier with more weight.
You could always just put the suspension pieces on with out the springs for now so you can roll it around until the body is on and put the springs in then. easier and safer.
Ghost Post said
May 6, 2011
Best always think of offshore tools and parts as props unless proven otherwise!. The danger's even worse when in the hands of the innocent but clueless hobbyists!.
Not recommended but the 'old school' way I learned was to compress the spring w/ the weight of a car or shop hoist then hold compressed w/ muffler clamps, carefully place them then torch the clamps off!. Although dangerous I never lost any but that was the old world when muffler clamps weren't made offshore and nobody wore their seatbelts either!.
~
cool 69 said
May 6, 2011
Priceless Auto,get what you paid for.
DANO65 said
May 6, 2011
Here you go,pics right from GM. I've done it with out the bar, just turn the block around so it sits flat on the jack.
Well i was compressing the spring with the princess auto spring compresser and it failed badly i only had the spring compressed 2 inchs and bang it broke...... thankfully it was in place and did not bounch at us soo thats the good part... OK now could i put an engine in a frame without front suspension then compress the spring with a jack and the weight of the engine?.. i would like to avoid compressing the springs at home...
Glad you're ok.
What part broke?
Ya, that should work.
I did a similar thing a few years ago, i just so happened to have a pile of shingles in the driveway at the time, so i piled them all on the front of my frame to simulate the engine and body wieght, then installed the front springs as normal.
Take the springs to a spring shop and get them banded if you dont have a good compressor way more safe. I think you will fing the weight of the engine is still not enough unless you got a few good freinds to sit on the fram aswell.
IF there is a failure , it cannot become a projectile, AND take out your HEAD !
Springs have a huge amount of stored energy ! as we say at work , LOCK OUT all energy sources , springs included.
Another trick way, is use an old axle and a hydraulic press, drop the axle through the spring, and preload, chain it on 2 sides once the preload has been set. THEN remove the safety chain that you put around the spring and press at the start.
I'll see tonight if I have my old chilton manual at home and copy for you with pictures. These front ends 65-70 B body dont come apart the way most people think. You DO NOT split the ball joints to remove the spring. You undo the lower inner pivot, and release the spring pressure that way.
So to re-install the springs, attach the upper control arm to the frame, attach the spindle to the upper, attach the lower ball joint to the spindle. You'll need a short piece of 2x4 about 6 inches long. Cut a 45 degree off 1 corner. Now place the 2x4 on top off your floor jack, must be a larger good one, no little trolley jacks allowed,staright in from the side,on a smooth surface, and place the pointed end of the 2x4 against the inner bushing. Set the spring in the perch and on the lower perch. Now slowly pump up the jack. Every thing will swing into place, guide the lower up into the frame, don't force it, it should slide up easy, a couple of taps one way or the other should start it. Now install the lower pivot/camber pin. Now you can attach the strut rod and shock.
You'll need the engine and at least another 300lbs or so with a bare frame. I've done it with a big block and some extra weight on a bare frame, easier with more weight.
You could always just put the suspension pieces on with out the springs for now so you can roll it around until the body is on and put the springs in then. easier and safer.
The danger's even worse when in the hands of the innocent but clueless hobbyists!.
Not recommended but the 'old school' way I learned was to compress the spring w/ the weight of a car or shop hoist then hold compressed w/ muffler clamps, carefully place them then torch the clamps off!.
Although dangerous I never lost any but that was the old world when muffler clamps weren't made offshore and nobody wore their seatbelts either!.
~
Here you go,pics right from GM. I've done it with out the bar, just turn the block around so it sits flat on the jack.