Installing a window fuzzy ( sweeper ) and outer seal kit
4SPEED427 said
Jan 2, 2013
I read this on another site but thought this looked to be well written advice. I want to make sure I give credit to member Kraftee on a Buick forum, V8buick.com This is something I will likely need to do on my GP and I'm sure many of you are in the same boat.
Copied and pasted- _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Okay. As per Rick's request, here are some of the things I learned during installation of this kit. First off, CARS does not list a kit particularly for the 1967 Buick Wildcat Convertible. I took a flyer and ordered the kit for the 1968 Wildcat. No problem - everything fit perfectly on my 67.
This kit is from Repops and it includes eight pieces. Inners and outers for all four side windows. There are "instructions" included, but these are really more like an excellent set of tips for installation. FAR more important is having the Fisher body manual for your car. This explains in pretty good detail how to remove the door panels and inner rear panels.
Once you have one of your door panels off, you will immediately see your first problem: You cannot get to all the screws holding your outer sweepers in place as the door window does not lower far enough. After a LOT of trial and error, I found that I had to loosen ALL the window adjusting bolts - even the ones holding the window to the sash - in order to get the window down far enough to get to all the screws holding the outer sweeper in place. Of course, you can look at this in two ways: One, "CRAP, now my window is going to have to be readjusted!" or Two, "All right, now I can finally adjust this window properly!" Since I had wind and rain leaks on pretty much ALL my windows, I chose to look at this from the latter standpoint. If your windows are already adjusted perfectly, use a Sharpie to make reference marks before loosening all those bolts!
Once you remove the old outer sweeper, you need to do a couple things before installing your new one. First, make sure that the screw holes in the new sweepers line up with those in the stainless door top trim. Mine didn't, so I had to redrill the sweepers in a couple spots. Also, the new sweepers have directional, triangular "spikes" that look like they SHOULD slide into the slots on the door stainless trim. They don't. Instead, you will be best off by slightly bending these spikes OUT almost perpendicular to the sweeper. Then start at one end and slide the first one into its slot. Push the sweeper hard against the trim at that point to bend the spike back and hold the sweeper against the trim. Continue in this method, putting screws in as you progress. No problem. Now you can adjust your window properly (again as per instructions in the Fisher body manual.)
Put a blanket or towel on your workbench and lay your removed inner door panel on it so you can remove the inner sweeper. The tips that come with your kit mention that the original sweepers were held on with staples and that you DO NOT want to shortcut by using rivets. That's good advice - you CAN see the crummy rivets. I know this because my sweepers had been replaced in the past and were held on with rivets. To remove rivets - simply drill them out. I understand that it is a lot more difficult to remove the staples - but I can't help you with that. The instructions list some tips for removing the staples.
Once you have the old staples or rivets removed, you can pull off and discard the old sweeper. Line the new sweeper up on the door panel and use either masking tape or Vise Grip welding clamps (I used a combination of both) to hold the new sweeper in place while you DRILL the door panels for the new staples. Cleverly, the new sweepers are already drilled for staples, so you should use these holes as your template. Here's where it gets a bit tricky: It's easy enough to push the new staples (included with kit) through the sweeper and the new holes in the door panel. But now you have to bend these VERY stout staples to hold the sweeper in place. I found that using a pair of bent-nose needle-nose pliers was the easiest way. I tried several other types of pliers, but the bent-nose seemed to work best. Put the pliers on both ends of the staple and squeeze them together first to get them sort of pointed at each other. Then, you can bend the prongs, one at a time, with the pliers from the top and bottom of the staple. If you do it right, it works easily. If it is fighting you, you are doing something wrong. If you are using welding clamps, move them down as you go. When you have all the staples installed, simply reinstall your door panel (don't forget the water barrier - you may need new tape) and you're basically done with one door!
Same thing for the other door - and for the rear inner panels. Unfortunately, you will ALSO have to remove the rear seat cushion and seat back on a convertible or coupe in order to remove the panels. The good news is you then get to vacuum spots that you haven't cleaned in a long time!
That's about it. Sounds fairly simple. It isn't. But is also doable by anyone with reasonable tool and hand skills. Of course, if you're a bit ham-handed like me, you will end up with some pretty significant gashes in your fingers and hands! Have band-aids handy.
Good luck. ERIC
Lefty said
Jan 2, 2013
cool, any pictures ??
4SPEED427 said
Jan 2, 2013
No, no pictures with it but a great writeup.
66 Grande guy said
Jan 2, 2013
Gee whiz I just did one of these on the 66 GP but I took the window right out as I wanted to check everthing in there and lube things up properly. I never could get those tabs back in so i cut them off and used the little flat screws that came with the parts. (66 Grand Prix is listed in Ames performance parts so its pretty good fit.) I don't know if I got it exactly right as there seems to be about 1/2 non swept space at the back of the door but the front lines up. I didn't replace the inner panel fuzzy as it seemed pretty good yet and in my experience (as I grow older) i don't fix stuff unless its broken as OEM stuff tends to the best anyway.
I also replaced the weather stripping refurbished the power window setup (I had to fix a few of the door wires as they had broken over the years and i also used the new power window wire door boot from Ames which was a great fit. Not looking too bad. if you want I'll take pics of when I redo the drivers door as I now have a bit of a clue what I'm doing.
4SPEED427 said
Jan 2, 2013
I think pictures of it would be a great addition to this thread Ken.
I was thinking exactly of your project when I found this and posted it. I was wondering how far along you were.
As far as the non swept area, is the window lined up evenly all along the opening in the door?
66 Grande guy said
Jan 2, 2013
Thanks I 'll try to do that.
As for my gap its seems to be lined up ok its is just a bit too short, I think. Maybe I'll get smarter when i do the other one and then I'll have to rip this door part and rejig. Thats the way it goes sometimes. At least I'll be in practice.
66 Beau said
Jan 2, 2013
That's a job I've been putting off for ages. Need to get the Fisher Body Manual (good excuse). I think some jobs are sanctioned by the Red Cross as blood donation events. Anything under the dash or inside the doors is a good way for me to lose half a pint. Good write up and thanks for sharing - it'll help when I finally work up the nerve!
Pontiacanada said
Jan 4, 2013
All you wanted to know about car windows and you were afraid to ask:
That's a job I've been putting off for ages. Need to get the Fisher Body Manual (good excuse). I think some jobs are sanctioned by the Red Cross as blood donation events. Anything under the dash or inside the doors is a good way for me to lose half a pint. Good write up and thanks for sharing - it'll help when I finally work up the nerve!
Are you looking to buy a 66 Fisher Body manual?
PM me if you are, I can help you.
grantR said
Jan 4, 2013
Carl, how many of those 66 fisher manuals do you have? I might be wanting one...
4SPEED427 said
Jan 4, 2013
We need to do a phone call some day soon anyway Grant. Maybe this is a good excuse to do that. I'll send you a PM.
Copied and pasted-
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Okay. As per Rick's request, here are some of the things I learned during installation of this kit. First off, CARS does not list a kit particularly for the 1967 Buick Wildcat Convertible. I took a flyer and ordered the kit for the 1968 Wildcat. No problem - everything fit perfectly on my 67.
This kit is from Repops and it includes eight pieces. Inners and outers for all four side windows. There are "instructions" included, but these are really more like an excellent set of tips for installation. FAR more important is having the Fisher body manual for your car. This explains in pretty good detail how to remove the door panels and inner rear panels.
Once you have one of your door panels off, you will immediately see your first problem: You cannot get to all the screws holding your outer sweepers in place as the door window does not lower far enough. After a LOT of trial and error, I found that I had to loosen ALL the window adjusting bolts - even the ones holding the window to the sash - in order to get the window down far enough to get to all the screws holding the outer sweeper in place. Of course, you can look at this in two ways: One, "CRAP, now my window is going to have to be readjusted!" or Two, "All right, now I can finally adjust this window properly!" Since I had wind and rain leaks on pretty much ALL my windows, I chose to look at this from the latter standpoint. If your windows are already adjusted perfectly, use a Sharpie to make reference marks before loosening all those bolts!
Once you remove the old outer sweeper, you need to do a couple things before installing your new one. First, make sure that the screw holes in the new sweepers line up with those in the stainless door top trim. Mine didn't, so I had to redrill the sweepers in a couple spots. Also, the new sweepers have directional, triangular "spikes" that look like they SHOULD slide into the slots on the door stainless trim. They don't. Instead, you will be best off by slightly bending these spikes OUT almost perpendicular to the sweeper. Then start at one end and slide the first one into its slot. Push the sweeper hard against the trim at that point to bend the spike back and hold the sweeper against the trim. Continue in this method, putting screws in as you progress. No problem. Now you can adjust your window properly (again as per instructions in the Fisher body manual.)
Put a blanket or towel on your workbench and lay your removed inner door panel on it so you can remove the inner sweeper. The tips that come with your kit mention that the original sweepers were held on with staples and that you DO NOT want to shortcut by using rivets. That's good advice - you CAN see the crummy rivets. I know this because my sweepers had been replaced in the past and were held on with rivets. To remove rivets - simply drill them out. I understand that it is a lot more difficult to remove the staples - but I can't help you with that. The instructions list some tips for removing the staples.
Once you have the old staples or rivets removed, you can pull off and discard the old sweeper. Line the new sweeper up on the door panel and use either masking tape or Vise Grip welding clamps (I used a combination of both) to hold the new sweeper in place while you DRILL the door panels for the new staples. Cleverly, the new sweepers are already drilled for staples, so you should use these holes as your template. Here's where it gets a bit tricky: It's easy enough to push the new staples (included with kit) through the sweeper and the new holes in the door panel. But now you have to bend these VERY stout staples to hold the sweeper in place. I found that using a pair of bent-nose needle-nose pliers was the easiest way. I tried several other types of pliers, but the bent-nose seemed to work best. Put the pliers on both ends of the staple and squeeze them together first to get them sort of pointed at each other. Then, you can bend the prongs, one at a time, with the pliers from the top and bottom of the staple. If you do it right, it works easily. If it is fighting you, you are doing something wrong. If you are using welding clamps, move them down as you go. When you have all the staples installed, simply reinstall your door panel (don't forget the water barrier - you may need new tape) and you're basically done with one door!
Same thing for the other door - and for the rear inner panels. Unfortunately, you will ALSO have to remove the rear seat cushion and seat back on a convertible or coupe in order to remove the panels. The good news is you then get to vacuum spots that you haven't cleaned in a long time!
That's about it. Sounds fairly simple. It isn't. But is also doable by anyone with reasonable tool and hand skills. Of course, if you're a bit ham-handed like me, you will end up with some pretty significant gashes in your fingers and hands! Have band-aids handy.
Good luck. ERIC
Gee whiz I just did one of these on the 66 GP but I took the window right out as I wanted to check everthing in there and lube things up properly. I never could get those tabs back in so i cut them off and used the little flat screws that came with the parts. (66 Grand Prix is listed in Ames performance parts so its pretty good fit.) I don't know if I got it exactly right as there seems to be about 1/2 non swept space at the back of the door but the front lines up. I didn't replace the inner panel fuzzy as it seemed pretty good yet and in my experience (as I grow older) i don't fix stuff unless its broken as OEM stuff tends to the best anyway.
I also replaced the weather stripping refurbished the power window setup (I had to fix a few of the door wires as they had broken over the years and i also used the new power window wire door boot from Ames which was a great fit. Not looking too bad. if you want I'll take pics of when I redo the drivers door as I now have a bit of a clue what I'm doing.
I was thinking exactly of your project when I found this and posted it. I was wondering how far along you were.
As far as the non swept area, is the window lined up evenly all along the opening in the door?
Thanks I 'll try to do that.
As for my gap its seems to be lined up ok its is just a bit too short, I think. Maybe I'll get smarter when i do the other one and then I'll have to rip this door part and rejig. Thats the way it goes sometimes. At least I'll be in practice.
Good write up and thanks for sharing - it'll help when I finally work up the nerve!
All you wanted to know about car windows and you were afraid to ask:
http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/restoration/stop-window-shake-and-rattle-%e2%80%94-but-keep-the-roll
Are you looking to buy a 66 Fisher Body manual?
PM me if you are, I can help you.