Well, I have the tires, shocks, springs and stabilizer bars and panhard rod. As well as the brakes and booster.
So, for about $1500 I should be able to complete the job Carl. Yea, pricey but it should be worth it in the end. And it can always all be put back to stock if needed.
Personally, I changed the bushings simply because they were worn, sloppy, dried up and cracked - as were the body mounts. Went with stock equivalent, not the neo type (also heard they're too rugged) Added discs mainly for the element of reliability and safety having dual master. Went with OD trans mainly for economy, as it's a cruiser not a racer. I like the end results and, IMO don't think it needs thousands in body work, and I also know it does insult those who stick with #s original and those against modifying, but that's just too bad. Also not expecting to gain value in the car, just enjoy the car and working on it. Again, just my
-- Edited by 1965CS on Monday 21st of January 2013 10:51:57 AM
Pontiacanada said
Jan 21, 2013
cdnpont wrote:
Looks like some kind of tailpipe insert...
Nope, a surplus piece off the Sputnik.
dualquadpete said
Jan 21, 2013
I've spoken to a few guys that have changed the control arm bushings to the "urethane" ones & they have said it rode like a "dump truck" ??? Anyone have this happen?? I used the stock rubber ones when I re-did the 64 catalina frt. end after i heard this comment!!!!
Pontiacanada said
Jan 21, 2013
dualquadpete wrote:I've spoken to a few guys that have changed the control arm bushings to the "urethane" ones & they have said it rode like a "dump truck" ???I've heard the same about urethane engine mounts ... more engine vibrations throughout the vehicle.
427carl said
Jan 21, 2013
cdnpont wrote:
Well, I have the tires, shocks, springs and stabilizer bars and panhard rod. As well as the brakes and booster.
So, for about $1500 I should be able to complete the job Carl. Yea, pricey but it should be worth it in the end. And it can always all be put back to stock if needed.
Thats not bad But not everyone is as talented as you (mechanical lol) Probably add another 1000 for labor?
I responded to the car being a 4500 lb convertible I often wonder about trying to make it a "handler"
Unless it has mega power the results don't often add to the value...
I know I know everyones taste are different and its their money.....
If the car is solid and body work is done, then suspension would be next
I often cringe when I see fellows pouring thousands of dollars into motor and transmisions and disc brakes and rims etc
and still have a car needing 6-10 worth of body work....
actually none of my business... lol But sometime some old timers experience can help save some bucks..
I'm not mean Just old and opinionated C2
427carl said
Jan 21, 2013
dualquadpete wrote:
I've spoken to a few guys that have changed the control arm bushings to the "urethane" ones & they have said it rode like a "dump truck" ??? Anyone have this happen?? I used the stock rubber ones when I re-did the 64 catalina frt. end after i heard this comment!!!!
Again its personal tastes
I figure if the car arrived 40 years down the road with originals... then stock is fine...
Sometimes stock bushings plus better shocks and a sway bar, are alls thats needed
427carl wrote:I often cringe when I see fellows pouring thousands of dollars into motor and transmisions and disc brakes and rims etc and still have a car needing 6-10 worth of body work....
actually none of my business... lol But sometime some old timers experience can help save some bucks..
Your "experience" is bang on! I'm 2/3s your age (well a bit older ) and I think the same way.
427carl said
Jan 21, 2013
Thank God... nice to know theres two of us
cdnpont said
Jan 21, 2013
Like any hobby, it will cost money to play. Some people spend 3K a year on golf, and do they have anything to show for it at years end?
So to spend a couple grand a year making incremental improvments to a old car, knowing that except to myself, the cars value will never increase is fine by me. At least I can get my hands dirty doing it, and actually have somthing to show for it, somthing I can actually be proud of and drive every day. But thinking that it is some kind of investment, that you'll be able to recover all you put into it is agreed off base.
Start with the small things first, and yes, it obviously makes a huge difference if you can diy. These cars can be made to handle very well.
It's an expensive hobby like any else, but if you have some disposable income, go for it if it makes you happy I say!
Personally, I changed the bushings simply because they were worn, sloppy, dried up and cracked - as were the body mounts. Went with stock equivalent, not the neo type (also heard they're too rugged) Added discs mainly for the element of reliability and safety having dual master. Went with OD trans mainly for economy, as it's a cruiser not a racer. I like the end results and, IMO don't think it needs thousands in body work, and I also know it does insult those who stick with #s original and those against modifying, but that's just too bad. Also not expecting to gain value in the car, just enjoy the car and working on it. Again, just my
cdnpont wrote:
Like any hobby, it will cost money to play. Some people spend 3K a year on golf, and do they have anything to show for it at years end?
So to spend a couple grand a year making incremental improvments to a old car, knowing that except to myself, the cars value will never increase is fine by me. At least I can get my hands dirty doing it, and actually have somthing to show for it, somthing I can actually be proud of and drive every day. But thinking that it is some kind of investment, that you'll be able to recover all you put into it is agreed off base.
Start with the small things first, and yes, it obviously makes a huge difference if you can diy. These cars can be made to handle very well.
It's an expensive hobby like any else, but if you have some disposable income, go for it if it makes you happy I say!
Cheers, Mark
I really do agree Some waste too much time keeping track of every penny.. and then try to sell later, "moaning" I've got xxx dollars IN it ..lol
Many of my cars over the years were "payday to payday" cars Much smarter to buy finished , but I could only afford to buy 1 piece at a time...
So thats a good resoultion... If the cars a keeper... don't keep track of the money right?
cdnpont said
Jan 21, 2013
I've also got probably 12k into a 7k car. Have no fear as they say!
Back to the suspension Jeff,
I think your biggest bang for the buck would be to simply add a rear bar. Next to a new quick ratio box, modern tires, I think the bar hands down changes the feel more than any other item.
More up to snuff springs and shocks, a good high caster alignment, good tires... and as long as all your bushings aren't sloppy, you'll have a worthy road machine.
dcneric said
Jan 22, 2013
With regards to the poly or Just Suspension style bushings, I can say with stock shocks my 70 GTO pretty soft even with HO springs in it. Adding gas charged shocks could very well make a ride difference in car that was not designed for them.
I to have heard the statement that the poly increases ride harshness but I have never had anyone come clean on the whole suspension set up. The suspension is integral part of the vehicle and should be only modified to suit your taste in performance. If your intent on hitting the track and modify your suspension for that application don't bitch that it rides like a hay wagon on the street. On the flip side, you like the ultra soft 70's big car ride don't expect awesome times at the track.
Last again back to the poly bushing, insure they are grease able as they do get squeaky after a while.
oshawacliff said
Jan 22, 2013
Mark: Do you think we can go together on the rear lower trailing arms and strike up a "deal" with the supplier??
I have been toying with the idea of making a weekend to Spring Carlisle. Might be a good opportunity to scoop some other parts.
Cliff
33 years and still spending money!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
65wagon said
Jan 22, 2013
ill tell you guys something, i bang hard on the wagon,and i switched the front over to urathane i would never go back, the front shocks are still stock the backs are KYB s on rubber bushings, its a bit of a mish mash but i replace it when its needed and when i dont need the car for work so things dont get done very often.
Checker said
Dec 27, 2013
I added to all new bushings a set of CPP classic performance part of 11/2" drop coil spindles and a set of red Koni shocks ..and finally an adjustable rear panhard bar . The 65 convertible is now really straight on the streets and handle with the fast ratio steering gear box great in the mountains and on highway crusising..however you drive 60 mph or 110 mph ..a great swap are 7x14 or 7x15" wheels like the rally wheels ..a little more wide track ...
OldNightHawk said
Dec 27, 2013
I put all body and suspension bushings from Energy Suspension. Monroe gas shocks,15x7 rally II with BFG's.Car rides smooth with a nice road feel.
Hi and thanks for reading and responding,
I have a 65 Parisienne rag top, what I want to do is upgrade the suspension more to todays standards, retaining the stock hight of the car.
would appreciate any advice or suggestions on after market kits or different parts u made have had success with.
thanks again
Jeff
Just Google 65 Impala Convertible suspension upgrade
Get out your calculator and send big cheque
Easy
hundreds of choices maybe thousands
Here's what I'd look to do. In fact, I plan on it for my 67.
Front end
Tubular front upper and lower control arms
Bushingless strut rods
Quicker ratio steering box.
Billet tie rod sleeves.
Large diameter stabilizer bar
Energy Suspension poly bar bushings and end links
Edelbrock AIS shocks or equivalent
New F40 spec springs
Quality alignment with as much positive caster as you can get. 0 camber.
Rear
Tubular upper and lower control arms. If possible with rubber on one end, swivel joint on the other. Adjustable uppers.
Adjustable panhard rod with greasable poly bushings
Large diameter stabilizer bar.
Eldelbrock AIS or equivalent shocks
New F40 spec springs
Misc
Quality tires maintaining somthing close to the original diameter. Not too little of sidewall.
Disc brakes on the front
If body bushings are shot. Replace all of them.
Holy big bucks Batman sounds like your doubling the price of the car
I called Mikhail Gorbachev to tell him about your plans for his old car. He's not very happy. He's armed and coming to see you soon...
Well, I have the tires, shocks, springs and stabilizer bars and panhard rod. As well as the brakes and booster.
So, for about $1500 I should be able to complete the job Carl. Yea, pricey but it should be worth it in the end. And it can always all be put back to stock if needed.
Some links for MudLake
POL front arms
Global west strut rods
Global west rear upper arms
Delphi 670 steering box
Looks like some kind of tailpipe insert...
Personally, I changed the bushings simply because they were worn, sloppy, dried up and cracked - as were the body mounts. Went with stock equivalent, not the neo type (also heard they're too rugged) Added discs mainly for the element of reliability and safety having dual master. Went with OD trans mainly for economy, as it's a cruiser not a racer. I like the end results and, IMO don't think it needs thousands in body work, and I also know it does insult those who stick with #s original and those against modifying, but that's just too bad. Also not expecting to gain value in the car, just enjoy the car and working on it. Again, just my
-- Edited by 1965CS on Monday 21st of January 2013 10:51:57 AM
Nope, a surplus piece off the Sputnik.
Thats not bad But not everyone is as talented as you (mechanical lol) Probably add another 1000 for labor?
I responded to the car being a 4500 lb convertible I often wonder about trying to make it a "handler"
Unless it has mega power the results don't often add to the value...
I know I know everyones taste are different and its their money.....
If the car is solid and body work is done, then suspension would be next
I often cringe when I see fellows pouring thousands of dollars into motor and transmisions and disc brakes and rims etc
and still have a car needing 6-10 worth of body work....
actually none of my business... lol But sometime some old timers experience can help save some bucks..
I'm not mean Just old and opinionated C2
Again its personal tastes
I figure if the car arrived 40 years down the road with originals... then stock is fine...
Sometimes stock bushings plus better shocks and a sway bar, are alls thats needed
http://www.classicperform.com
http://www.lategreatchevy.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?search_year=1965&search_model_id=8&q=&x=19&y=3&cat=5296
Like any hobby, it will cost money to play. Some people spend 3K a year on golf, and do they have anything to show for it at years end?
So to spend a couple grand a year making incremental improvments to a old car, knowing that except to myself, the cars value will never increase is fine by me. At least I can get my hands dirty doing it, and actually have somthing to show for it, somthing I can actually be proud of and drive every day. But thinking that it is some kind of investment, that you'll be able to recover all you put into it is agreed off base.
Start with the small things first, and yes, it obviously makes a huge difference if you can diy. These cars can be made to handle very well.
It's an expensive hobby like any else, but if you have some disposable income, go for it if it makes you happy I say!
Cheers, Mark
I really do agree Some waste too much time keeping track of every penny.. and then try to sell later, "moaning" I've got xxx dollars IN it ..lol
Many of my cars over the years were "payday to payday" cars Much smarter to buy finished , but I could only afford to buy 1 piece at a time...
So thats a good resoultion... If the cars a keeper... don't keep track of the money right?
I've also got probably 12k into a 7k car. Have no fear as they say!
Back to the suspension Jeff,
I think your biggest bang for the buck would be to simply add a rear bar. Next to a new quick ratio box, modern tires, I think the bar hands down changes the feel more than any other item.
More up to snuff springs and shocks, a good high caster alignment, good tires... and as long as all your bushings aren't sloppy, you'll have a worthy road machine.
I to have heard the statement that the poly increases ride harshness but I have never had anyone come clean on the whole suspension set up. The suspension is integral part of the vehicle and should be only modified to suit your taste in performance. If your intent on hitting the track and modify your suspension for that application don't bitch that it rides like a hay wagon on the street. On the flip side, you like the ultra soft 70's big car ride don't expect awesome times at the track.
Last again back to the poly bushing, insure they are grease able as they do get squeaky after a while.
I have been toying with the idea of making a weekend to Spring Carlisle. Might be a good opportunity to scoop some other parts.
Cliff
33 years and still spending money!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ill tell you guys something, i bang hard on the wagon,and i switched the front over to urathane i would never go back, the front shocks are still stock the backs are KYB s on rubber bushings, its a bit of a mish mash but i replace it when its needed and when i dont need the car for work so things dont get done very often.