Sometimes I post thinking just maybe someone wants to do this but has no idea how, so I post just in case it will help.
I cut the back window out of my GP tonight. If this is something you've never done but are needing to for some reason, it's pretty basic, don't be scared of it.
Only a couple of tools needed.
-Moulding clip tool to release the clips on the chrome trim around the glass.
-Good quality utility knife and a few new blades.
-Some sort of plastic or wood strips to wedge in once the window starts to loosen.
First off I removed all the trim using the clip tool. You just slide it along, hook pointing forward until it catches on the clip. Then some gentle prying while you put some gentle pressure on the moulding, pulling it up and away from the glass. Also remove the screws and mouldings inside the car around the window.
With the mouldings off, start slicing from the inside of car. Make sure you have a brand new blade in the knife. Basically, you need to have the knife pressed as flat to the window as possible, and just start working the point of the blade into the butyl, urethane, whatever is holding the glass in. I started by doing the vertical part of the glass seal on the driver's side. Make sure you go all the way right in to the corners. Once I had both sides done, I noticed I was able to get a tiny gap between the window and body when I pushed out firmly on the glass. I put a small plastic wedge in there and started cutting across the top, always leap frogging 2 wedges just a few inches behind me. Once I had the top and both sides loose, I was able to push it out a few inches at the top and then it's much easier to cut across the bottom with it tilted up.
It's hard work cutting but don't give up, just keep cutting. I was sweating good when I was done.
The best part of this is I expected to find rust holes in the channel because this car has been sitting a lot the last few years before I got it. I have not cleaned all the old sealant blobs out yet but so far, not a hole in sight. The main reason I pulled it is to put a tinted window in.
pontorquer said
Feb 27, 2013
Nice work Carl, when i did the ones on my 1975 Grand Prix, 1973-74 Grand Am parts cars, I was very lucky, the sealant was so old and brittle that they pretty much all pushed out without any effort ...
Try Ames Performance for your package tray
-- Edited by pontorquer on Wednesday 27th of February 2013 10:21:00 AM
dualquadpete said
Feb 27, 2013
Nice job!! I've used the "OL" piano wire trick to saw the window out !!! That works well but need 2 people to do it. I'd leave the glass out,"cause" if your like me you can never get the glass that CLEAN!!!!!
Pontiacanada said
Feb 27, 2013
I recently did it the same way Carl. I also found that it was easier in minus temperatures. It was about -2 C when I did the front and back glass outdoors a month ago. The normally sticky sealer was much more rigid in the cold temps and way less tacky. I did one in warm temps and it was much harder to unstick (pop out) and messier.
cdnpont said
Feb 27, 2013
Will you clean up the package tray covering when the window is out Carl?
It's a perfect time to do so.
4SPEED427 said
Feb 27, 2013
Pontiacanada wrote:
I recently did it the same way Carl. I also found that it was easier in minus temperatures. It was about -2 C when I did the front and back glass outdoors a month ago. The normally sticky sealer was much more rigid in the cold temps and way less tacky. I did one in warm temps and it was much harder to unstick (pop out) and messier.
Yes, I was remembing how quick I had the tinted one out in the wrecking yard. There was a bit of a frost that night and I did it first thing in the morning. The knife cut through it real easy in the cold.
4SPEED427 said
Feb 27, 2013
cdnpont wrote:
Will you clean up the package tray covering when the window is out Carl?
It's a perfect time to do so.
Yes, the original package tray is long gone, I assume it either got wet from a leaky window or the sun killed it. I have to find out if there is a replacement available for Grand Parisienne/Grand Prix. If not, I guess I'll go see the guy I took my seats to for covering and we'll figure something out.
I don't plan to leave it the way it is if at all possible.
Johnnee D said
Feb 27, 2013
Once again, nice job Carl, and very instructive... always thought it was better doing it in the sun as the sealer is soft and you have less chances of breaking the window...
meteor61 said
Feb 27, 2013
Carl Stevenson wrote:
cdnpont wrote:
Will you clean up the package tray covering when the window is out Carl?
It's a perfect time to do so.
Yes, the original package tray is long gone, I assume it either got wet from a leaky window or the sun killed it. I have to find out if there is a replacement available for Grand Parisienne/Grand Prix. If not, I guess I'll go see the guy I took my seats to for covering and we'll figure something out.
I don't plan to leave it the way it is if at all possible.
If one isn't made for that try an upholstery shop for a sheet of fiberboard and make one. A strip of original vinyl and some foam bonded to one edge and painted to match. The big distributor in WPG for upholstrey supplies is Jacksons but you need to go through an account holder to purchase there. They're not open to the public.
4SPEED427 said
Feb 27, 2013
pontorquer wrote:
Nice work Carl, when i did the ones on my 1975 Grand Prix, 1973-74 Grand Am parts cars, I was very lucky, the sealant was so old and brittle that they pretty much all pushed out without any effort ...
Try Ames Performance for your package tray
-- Edited by pontorquer on Wednesday 27th of February 2013 10:21:00 AM
Thanks, I figured them or California Pontiac Restoration.
4SPEED427 said
Feb 27, 2013
meteor61 wrote:
Carl Stevenson wrote:
cdnpont wrote:
Will you clean up the package tray covering when the window is out Carl?
It's a perfect time to do so.
Yes, the original package tray is long gone, I assume it either got wet from a leaky window or the sun killed it. I have to find out if there is a replacement available for Grand Parisienne/Grand Prix. If not, I guess I'll go see the guy I took my seats to for covering and we'll figure something out.
I don't plan to leave it the way it is if at all possible.
If one isn't made for that try an upholstery shop for a sheet of fiberboard and make one. A strip of original vinyl and some foam bonded to one edge and painted to match. The big distributor in WPG for upholstrey supplies is Jacksons but you need to go through an account holder to purchase there. They're not open to the public.
I may try that Kevin. No relation to you?
66 Grande guy said
Feb 27, 2013
Nice job Carl and gutsy of you. I haven't had to nerve to mess with my back glass and maybe i still should as there is evidence of it not being sealed too well. I'm just really scared to stress that precious shatter prone tinted safety glass.
As for a package tray I had ordered one quite a while back and it fits quite well although it came a bit bent in shipping so I had to flatten it out. I think it was from NOS if my memory serves.
ken (conscious again)
4SPEED427 said
Feb 27, 2013
66 Grande guy wrote:
Nice job Carl and gutsy of you. I haven't had to nerve to mess with my back glass and maybe i still should as there is evidence of it not being sealed too well. I'm just really scared to stress that precious shatter prone tinted safety glass.
As for a package tray I had ordered one quite a while back and it fits quite well although it came a bit bent in shipping so I had to flatten it out. I think it was from NOS if my memory serves.
ken (conscious again)
Ken, you can do that job. You just have to take your time. The glass is pretty flexible actually, you'd be amazed. Once I had the once side cut top to bottom I could push up on it creating about a 1/2"-3/16" gap. As soon as you have that little gap, the cutting goes real quick in comparison. Last night total time including removing all mouldings etc was likely about 90 minutes and that is very very slow compared to what an experienced glass guy would do. If there is any chance your's is leaking, you NEED to do this job now or you will end up with interior damage, rusty channels, etc. Now is the time.
As for NOS, once again my brain must be mush. I just made a purchase from them and the service is second to none. I have no idea why I didn't think to ask them. Thanks for the reminder.
(And for the record, part of the reason I created this thread was to light a fire under you!)
Emailed NOS and they have it, thanks for the reminder Ken.
Pontiacanada said
Feb 27, 2013
Carl Stevenson wrote:
The glass is pretty flexible actually, you'd be amazed
I've had the windshield that I removed out of the '64 Parisienne just propped up flat between the front bucket seats and the backseat inside the '63 Impala for a month now.
I find if you are too careful and have a fear of glass breaking, that's when it will break.
66 Grande guy said
Feb 27, 2013
Yeah, I know I'm going to regret not doing it eventually. You are a wise man (or is it wise guy?)
By the way my new avatar kind of sums up the last month but I'm getting better except that I'm working on my taxes right now so not sure how long my new optimism will last. I guess the winter grumps happens to most of us at some point except you eh Carl?
You probably get that during the spring floods eh?
4SPEED427 said
Feb 28, 2013
Love the new look Ken!
My grumpys usually are very short lived. Sometimes I get the lazys though!
NOS said
Feb 28, 2013
hi Carl; 65-66 GP Standard (smooth finish) package tray $29.80
deluxe package tray with speaker 'reliefs' and 'Mesh finish (hides the speaker area) $53.10
this is an over size parcel; wwill get ship cost tomorrow
Dale @ NOS
seventy2plus2 said
Feb 28, 2013
Thanks for the pointers Carl, I'm aiming to take some tinted glass out of a 70 Catalina, including the rear glass. I was surprised when you say it's easier when cold, but it makes sense. Less gooey.
4SPEED427 said
Feb 28, 2013
NOS wrote:
hi Carl; 65-66 GP Standard (smooth finish) package tray $29.80
deluxe package tray with speaker 'reliefs' and 'Mesh finish (hides the speaker area) $53.10
this is an over size parcel; wwill get ship cost tomorrow
Dale @ NOS
Perfect Dale, thanks. I actually prefer the smooth look anyway.
4SPEED427 said
Feb 28, 2013
Hope it helps Clint. It's not a bad job, don't be scared of it. Patience, patience and it will all work fine.
The butyl holding this window in certainly was exceptionally gooey, that's for sure. The whole trick seems to be getting one side loose, gently wedging it and from then on it's easy. That first side takes lots of arm strength and patience to get it loose though. Your arms will be shot when you're done. Don't be scared to put in new blades along the way. There's a major noticeable difference as soon as you put a new blade in. It seems to take the edge off them real fast.
Pontiacanada said
Feb 28, 2013
Carl Stevenson wrote:
There's a major noticeable difference as soon as you put a new blade in. It seems to take the edge off them real fast.
Ya I changed several blades. The blade kept hitting all these "buried" metal window clips that were about 8" apart. They were like speed-bumps, and dulled the blades fast. I also used an old steak knief to poke and break the seal under the glass edges ... that's the biggest thing, breaking the seal.
65wagon said
Feb 28, 2013
just be caerful with 40 year old temperd glass when its cold, one wrong chip with a metal blade will turn it into round pebbels otherwise it keeps the butyle mess down now you have to clean the channel and glass oh what fun, i really dont miss doing that job Carl, urathane all the way
4SPEED427 said
Feb 28, 2013
Yeah, I'm dreading that part. I didn't have time to work on it last night.
Any hints? Just scrape, scrape, and then scrape some more?
And yes, it WILL be urethane for sure.
65wagon said
Feb 28, 2013
i buy cheap plastic utility knives for this, keep the blade sharp and cut close to the body and glass, wear disposable gloves, dont use any solvent till you got 99.9 off. you dont want that stuff to active, and smile.
I cut the back window out of my GP tonight. If this is something you've never done but are needing to for some reason, it's pretty basic, don't be scared of it.
Only a couple of tools needed.
-Moulding clip tool to release the clips on the chrome trim around the glass.
-Good quality utility knife and a few new blades.
-Some sort of plastic or wood strips to wedge in once the window starts to loosen.
First off I removed all the trim using the clip tool. You just slide it along, hook pointing forward until it catches on the clip. Then some gentle prying while you put some gentle pressure on the moulding, pulling it up and away from the glass. Also remove the screws and mouldings inside the car around the window.
With the mouldings off, start slicing from the inside of car. Make sure you have a brand new blade in the knife. Basically, you need to have the knife pressed as flat to the window as possible, and just start working the point of the blade into the butyl, urethane, whatever is holding the glass in. I started by doing the vertical part of the glass seal on the driver's side. Make sure you go all the way right in to the corners. Once I had both sides done, I noticed I was able to get a tiny gap between the window and body when I pushed out firmly on the glass. I put a small plastic wedge in there and started cutting across the top, always leap frogging 2 wedges just a few inches behind me. Once I had the top and both sides loose, I was able to push it out a few inches at the top and then it's much easier to cut across the bottom with it tilted up.
It's hard work cutting but don't give up, just keep cutting. I was sweating good when I was done.
The best part of this is I expected to find rust holes in the channel because this car has been sitting a lot the last few years before I got it. I have not cleaned all the old sealant blobs out yet but so far, not a hole in sight. The main reason I pulled it is to put a tinted window in.
Nice work Carl, when i did the ones on my 1975 Grand Prix, 1973-74 Grand Am parts cars, I was very lucky, the sealant was so old and brittle that they pretty much all pushed out without any effort ...
Try Ames Performance for your package tray
-- Edited by pontorquer on Wednesday 27th of February 2013 10:21:00 AM
I recently did it the same way Carl. I also found that it was easier in minus temperatures. It was about -2 C when I did the front and back glass outdoors a month ago. The normally sticky sealer was much more rigid in the cold temps and way less tacky. I did one in warm temps and it was much harder to unstick (pop out) and messier.
Will you clean up the package tray covering when the window is out Carl?
It's a perfect time to do so.
Yes, I was remembing how quick I had the tinted one out in the wrecking yard. There was a bit of a frost that night and I did it first thing in the morning. The knife cut through it real easy in the cold.
Yes, the original package tray is long gone, I assume it either got wet from a leaky window or the sun killed it. I have to find out if there is a replacement available for Grand Parisienne/Grand Prix. If not, I guess I'll go see the guy I took my seats to for covering and we'll figure something out.
I don't plan to leave it the way it is if at all possible.
If one isn't made for that try an upholstery shop for a sheet of fiberboard and make one. A strip of original vinyl and some foam bonded to one edge and painted to match. The big distributor in WPG for upholstrey supplies is Jacksons but you need to go through an account holder to purchase there. They're not open to the public.
Thanks, I figured them or California Pontiac Restoration.
I may try that Kevin. No relation to you?
Nice job Carl and gutsy of you. I haven't had to nerve to mess with my back glass and maybe i still should as there is evidence of it not being sealed too well. I'm just really scared to stress that precious shatter prone tinted safety glass.
As for a package tray I had ordered one quite a while back and it fits quite well although it came a bit bent in shipping so I had to flatten it out. I think it was from NOS if my memory serves.
ken (conscious again)
Ken, you can do that job. You just have to take your time. The glass is pretty flexible actually, you'd be amazed. Once I had the once side cut top to bottom I could push up on it creating about a 1/2"-3/16" gap. As soon as you have that little gap, the cutting goes real quick in comparison. Last night total time including removing all mouldings etc was likely about 90 minutes and that is very very slow compared to what an experienced glass guy would do. If there is any chance your's is leaking, you NEED to do this job now or you will end up with interior damage, rusty channels, etc. Now is the time.
As for NOS, once again my brain must be mush. I just made a purchase from them and the service is second to none. I have no idea why I didn't think to ask them. Thanks for the reminder.
(And for the record, part of the reason I created this thread was to light a fire under you!) Emailed NOS and they have it, thanks for the reminder Ken.
I've had the windshield that I removed out of the '64 Parisienne just propped up flat between the front bucket seats and the backseat inside the '63 Impala for a month now.
I find if you are too careful and have a fear of glass breaking, that's when it will break.
Yeah, I know I'm going to regret not doing it eventually. You are a wise man (or is it wise guy?)
By the way my new avatar kind of sums up the last month but I'm getting better except that I'm working on my taxes right now so not sure how long my new optimism will last. I guess the winter grumps happens to most of us at some point except you eh Carl?
You probably get that during the spring floods eh?
My grumpys usually are very short lived. Sometimes I get the lazys though!
hi Carl; 65-66 GP Standard (smooth finish) package tray $29.80
deluxe package tray with speaker 'reliefs' and 'Mesh finish (hides the speaker area) $53.10
this is an over size parcel; wwill get ship cost tomorrow
Dale @ NOS
Thanks for the pointers Carl, I'm aiming to take some tinted glass out of a 70 Catalina, including the rear glass. I was surprised when you say it's easier when cold, but it makes sense. Less gooey.
Perfect Dale, thanks. I actually prefer the smooth look anyway.
The butyl holding this window in certainly was exceptionally gooey, that's for sure. The whole trick seems to be getting one side loose, gently wedging it and from then on it's easy. That first side takes lots of arm strength and patience to get it loose though. Your arms will be shot when you're done. Don't be scared to put in new blades along the way. There's a major noticeable difference as soon as you put a new blade in. It seems to take the edge off them real fast.
Ya I changed several blades. The blade kept hitting all these "buried" metal window clips that were about 8" apart. They were like speed-bumps, and dulled the blades fast. I also used an old steak knief to poke and break the seal under the glass edges ... that's the biggest thing, breaking the seal.
just be caerful with 40 year old temperd glass when its cold, one wrong chip with a metal blade will turn it into round pebbels otherwise it keeps the butyle mess down now you have to clean the channel and glass oh what fun, i really dont miss doing that job Carl, urathane all the way
Any hints? Just scrape, scrape, and then scrape some more?
And yes, it WILL be urethane for sure.
i buy cheap plastic utility knives for this, keep the blade sharp and cut close to the body and glass, wear disposable gloves, dont use any solvent till you got 99.9 off. you dont want that stuff to active, and smile.