Based on recommendations received here I have been using Shell Rotella T 15W40 in my 454.
-- Edited by 73SC on Monday 1st of April 2013 11:02:35 PM
marshalldude said
Apr 2, 2013
ok guys 454 bb what oil recommendations please apparantly need zinc any one using joe gibb HR-1 Conventional 15W-50 recommended for muscle cars
427carl said
Apr 2, 2013
Now you opened the flood gates !!
Watch out Get behind the car!
watch out
you will hear all of the
"I use" this and "I use" that
Gibbs is good
Pontiacanada said
Apr 2, 2013
427carl wrote:
Now you opened the flood gates !!
Watch out Get behind the car!
watch out
you will hear all of the
"I use" this and "I use" that
MorePower said
Apr 2, 2013
an excellent Zinc Phosphate additive is EOS (Engine Oil Suppliment) from Ac Delco. Its about $5 a bottle.
65wagon said
Apr 2, 2013
all depends what spring pressure you have, big blocks including 09s have a heavy valvetrain compared to small blocks, spring pressures are higher flat tappet will live a shorter life, i still run 10 30 synthetics with a heavy dose of zinc addative, next cams im going to rollers.
marshalldude said
Apr 2, 2013
well they wanted more guys to post let's rock and roll
Beau67SD said
Apr 2, 2013
10W30 Synthetic plus one can of EOS from AC Delco...thats in the 454/ 510HP in my 88 Jimmy...was same in Beaumont until it went "knock, knock"...building a 496 stroker now, roller cam. That will probabily be 10W30 Synthetic...or whatever my builder says!!
CDN2PLS2 said
Apr 3, 2013
Cod Liver Oil.
DRI said
Apr 3, 2013
CDN2PLS2 wrote:
Cod Liver Oil.
Driving the 68 this year? Looks like a real show Queen.
unburt said
Apr 3, 2013
Had the cam wipe out thing a few years back, went roller but use Brad Penn racing oil,good zinc content for insurance. There are other good oils but research is key,look at the actual (PPM) zinc numbers.
There was a post on here a while back that had the numbers from all the manufactures which may help in the decision.
If in doubt ask a performance engine builder or racer,those guys have the latest insight and info.
jfkheat said
Apr 3, 2013
I use Valvoline VR1 in my 427. James
427carl said
Apr 3, 2013
I go to Jiffy Lube got a buddy there
He gives me the old stuff for all my cars
I add STP (got several cases from 1969)
works great....
I get Zinc tablets on sale at Walmart... and B12
trucker said
Apr 3, 2013
427carl wrote:
I go to Jiffy Lube got a buddy there
He gives me the old stuff for all my cars
I add STP (got several cases from 1969)
works great....
I get Zinc tablets on sale at Walmart... and B12
Urine works good!!!!
427carl said
Apr 3, 2013
In the Maritimes its called Irving lol
trucker said
Apr 3, 2013
427carl wrote:
In the Maritimes its called Irving lol
And I can't say works for gear oil LOL
Bill shuba said
Jan 16, 2019
I have been doing alot of thinking lol on the oil I should use while breaking in my cam and motor,,read many of the ways you all here have done it ect..What is wrong with useing a good synthetic and a bottle of zinc additive ? my way of thinking is less wear and friction yet added zinc..am I thinking right ? or out to lunch..missing something? Thanks guys
long stroke said
Jan 16, 2019
Bill shuba wrote:
I have been doing alot of thinking lol on the oil I should use while breaking in my cam and motor,,read many of the ways you all here have done it ect..What is wrong with useing a good synthetic and a bottle of zinc additive ? my way of thinking is less wear and friction yet added zinc..am I thinking right ? or out to lunch..missing something? Thanks guys
Syn oil is no way to break in your cam.............. IT WOULD BE DEADLY. Use Joe Gibb break in oil or other "Break in oils". I used Joe Gibb when i breaked in my solid lifter cam and lifters in my 57 Pontiac 261 six. The break in is very very very very very very critical or your cam will prematurely fail and the loss of lots and lots of bucks. Follow the procedure of what rpm to set your break in and for how long a period of time. After the break in drain the oil and put fresh stuff in with zinc. This is very critical or you will be doing this all over again with a new cam. Syn oil is just way to slippery to break in a new camshaft and lifters. The zinc additive comes after the break in and that is also critical because flat tappet cams and lifters hate modern oils. Take short cuts in any way and you will pay my friend............... how do i know, well lets just say i learned the hard way. Cheers.
Bill shuba said
Jan 16, 2019
long stroke my cam and lifters are hydralic wouldn't that be different ? or is syn just to slippery to spin the lifters push rods as they should ??
long stroke said
Jan 17, 2019
Bill shuba wrote:
long stroke my cam and lifters are hydralic wouldn't that be different ? or is syn just to slippery to spin the lifters push rods as they should ??
Both solid cams and hydro cams have to be properly broken in. Syn oil is never recommended for breaking in a cam or even a motor for that matter. With an engine rebuild syn oil will not allow the rings to properly break in. Always replace the cam and lifters as a set and never reuse old lifters because they will grind into the new camshaft lobes. A break in oil is cheap insurance but it is just that a break in oil and not to left in the crankcase. You have to run the engine at a higher rpm for about 20 - 30 minutes, set the idle speed higher to do this and be with the car in case some expensive noises start to happen. Drain the break in oil after the break in an replace with a quality oil and add ZINC if it is a flat tappet cam. Roller cams and lifters do not require ZINC. Use the cam shaft supplier for the proper rpm setting and break in time for when you actually break in the cam. Not doing any of this means that you will be replacing your cam real soon again. Cheers.
Bill shuba said
Jan 17, 2019
Thank you long stroke..I didn't think about the rings breaking in ..I would agree syn would be away to slippery for that ..I am just covering all the bases to be safe and not sorry
Based on recommendations received here I have been using Shell Rotella T 15W40 in my 454.
-- Edited by 73SC on Monday 1st of April 2013 11:02:35 PM
ok guys 454 bb what oil recommendations please apparantly need zinc any one using joe gibb HR-1 Conventional 15W-50 recommended for muscle cars
Now you opened the flood gates !!
Watch out Get behind the car!
watch out
you will hear all of the
"I use" this and "I use" that
Gibbs is good
all depends what spring pressure you have, big blocks including 09s have a heavy valvetrain compared to small blocks, spring pressures are higher flat tappet will live a shorter life, i still run 10 30 synthetics with a heavy dose of zinc addative, next cams im going to rollers.
well they wanted more guys to post let's rock and roll
Driving the 68 this year? Looks like a real show Queen.
There was a post on here a while back that had the numbers from all the manufactures which may help in the decision.
If in doubt ask a performance engine builder or racer,those guys have the latest insight and info.
James
I go to Jiffy Lube got a buddy there
He gives me the old stuff for all my cars
I add STP (got several cases from 1969)
works great....
I get Zinc tablets on sale at Walmart... and B12
Urine works good!!!!
In the Maritimes its called Irving lol
And I can't say works for gear oil LOL
Syn oil is no way to break in your cam.............. IT WOULD BE DEADLY. Use Joe Gibb break in oil or other "Break in oils". I used Joe Gibb when i breaked in my solid lifter cam and lifters in my 57 Pontiac 261 six. The break in is very very very very very very critical or your cam will prematurely fail and the loss of lots and lots of bucks. Follow the procedure of what rpm to set your break in and for how long a period of time. After the break in drain the oil and put fresh stuff in with zinc. This is very critical or you will be doing this all over again with a new cam. Syn oil is just way to slippery to break in a new camshaft and lifters. The zinc additive comes after the break in and that is also critical because flat tappet cams and lifters hate modern oils. Take short cuts in any way and you will pay my friend............... how do i know, well lets just say i learned the hard way. Cheers.
Both solid cams and hydro cams have to be properly broken in. Syn oil is never recommended for breaking in a cam or even a motor for that matter. With an engine rebuild syn oil will not allow the rings to properly break in. Always replace the cam and lifters as a set and never reuse old lifters because they will grind into the new camshaft lobes. A break in oil is cheap insurance but it is just that a break in oil and not to left in the crankcase. You have to run the engine at a higher rpm for about 20 - 30 minutes, set the idle speed higher to do this and be with the car in case some expensive noises start to happen. Drain the break in oil after the break in an replace with a quality oil and add ZINC if it is a flat tappet cam. Roller cams and lifters do not require ZINC. Use the cam shaft supplier for the proper rpm setting and break in time for when you actually break in the cam. Not doing any of this means that you will be replacing your cam real soon again. Cheers.