Well this weekend is the time I plan to put the 49 into epoxy primer,so step 1 of the paint job.I plan to go over that with 2k high build and block sand that out.I'm not sure if I have to use primer sealer over that,one website says yes,the next says no.Anyways my original paint was acrylic enamel the color is whiltshire maroon.Noe I can order it direct from autocolor library and they will ship to Canada no problem.The local body shop supply has no listing for the 49 Canadian cars just the u.s so I think it would be called poly wine from chevy.So I could take the original fenderskirts down and have them color match them as they are in excellent shape paint wise.My question is since i'm sparaying the car nyself what would you use for paint.They can make acrylic enamel no problem locally i'm just wondering if there is a better alternative to use.I don't mind color sanding and buffing as I have done that before.The original finish from chevy was pretty orange peely from the factory so i'm sure my job will be smoother and shinyer than the factory ever was.Any suggestions out there?Excited to get some primer on and see the car all one color again.I think I will let it dry a few weeks before the 2k is applied.
427carl said
Jan 1, 2014
hwscowboy wrote:
Hey all
Well this weekend is the time I plan to put the 49 into epoxy primer
so step 1 of the paint job.
I plan to go over that with 2k high build and block sand that out.
I'm not sure if I have to use primer sealer over that, one website says yes, the next says no.
Anyways my original paint was acrylic enamel the color is whiltshire maroon.
Now I can order it direct from autocolor library and they will ship to Canada no problem.
The local body shop supply has no listing for the 49 Canadian cars just the U.S. so I think it would be called poly wine from chevy.
So I could take the original fenderskirts down and have them color match them as they are in excellent shape paint wise.
My question is since i'm spraying the car myself ..
what would you use for paint.
They can make acrylic enamel no problem locally
i'm just wondering if there is a better alternative to use.
I don't mind color sanding and buffing as I have done that before.
The original finish from chevy was pretty orange peely from the factory so i'm sure my job will be smoother and shinyer than the factory ever was.
Any suggestions out there?
Excited to get some primer on and see the car all one color again.
I think I will let it dry a few weeks before the 2k is applied.
long stroke said
Jan 1, 2014
I will always swear by base coat clear coat, even for our old rides because my 57 Pontiac in 1997 was sprayed with it and as of 2014 it looks just as new as the day it was sprayed............ i mean it looks no less for wear at all. I love the fact that base coat clear coat is so easy to repair and blend, unlike other types of paint. I use to love urethane paints but the cost is out of this universe now. Cheers. George.
hawkeye5766 said
Jan 1, 2014
I personally prefer base/clear coat ,Im not a prof painter just a hobby, but painted my 57 in back yard ( guinea pig for painting ),also painted my friends 69 firebird. Found that with clear coat, if you scratch the clear durring assembly you can wet sand it out and put more clear ontop without actually touching the color (base ) and it always looks shiny.Good luck on 49,cant wait to see it in color! Here's a pic of firewall I just painted with base clear. If painting yourself I think base clear is more user friendly, if you get a run in the clear just wetsand it out.They all have pros and cons.
thanks for the suggestions so far.I bought two part epoxy primer(not sure why they call it two part when its 3 cans)primer,reducer,activator it mixes at 4 to 1 to 1 I believe and a gallon of primer plus 1 quart of each of the reducer and activator cost me 170.00 in Calgary.I will checl the brand tomorrow but I think its ppg.I know the acrylic enamel in whiltshire maroon is 260.00 for a one gallon kit plus shipping from auto color library.That is their own brand,they do carry the DuPont and I think it was about 500.00 for the same amount.I'm not sure if they can make my color in base clear,i know autocolor would only offer it in the acrylic enamel.I will know more next week when I make a trip to the city to see if they can color match it locally or not.I have sprayed both in the past and at one time their was a product where you actually mixed the clear right in with the color.That was back in the 80's when I did a pink and black truck for a girl back in my hometown.I know the base/clear is easier to work with,the clear is the expensive part from what I remember.I know the acrylic needs to be color sanded and buffed out so more elbow work involved.
Beaumont67SD said
Jan 3, 2014
When my daily driver Chev. trucks need cab corners &/or rocker panels, its also usually time to completely paint the 10-15 year old 4x4. - last one stripped to bare metal (using Circa 1850) and D/A sanded it with 80 grit - 2 coats of Epoxy primer - 3 coats of Urethane high build primer - wet sanded up to 400 grit - borrowed a down draft spray booth - sprayed top coat in 3 coats of Urethane, amazing durable finish, laid really flat, great shine for 5 years till I sold the GMC Got to do cab corners on my 1998 CHEV. 3/4 ton 4x4, this summer (already have TX tailgate & mint rust free doors, set aside). - I'm not going to spend an arm & a leg fortune, repainting a vehicle worth $10K or less...very respectful paint jobs can be done, without blowing the budget
b) premium paint supplies with decend pricing...check link: www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ At Southern Polyurethanes our goal as a premium coatings manufacture is to provide you with the finest clears, primers, solvents and additives available today using only the best raw materials and latest technologies. While we dont manufacture a lot of redundant re-labeled products we can assure you what products we do make are comparable if not superior to anything else in their class in the automotive aftermarket at any price.
Now compare our $130 and less gallon kits of clears against the competitors $600 kits of clear and you will see the difference every time. Everything we make is intended to be the best in its class or we simply wont make it. With our clears you turn the booth fan off as soon as the overspray is evacuated and none of our clears require baking, though if you choose to bake they are all low time low temp baking clears. How much money will this save you in electricity and filters per year?
Looking for a show car quality clear with unmatched gloss and clarity? Look no further than our Universal Clear. Thousands of rods, bikes and restorations have been finished with these clears. Both of these clears have excellent chemical resistance and buff easy even months after application.
Need to save a few dollars but want an excellent collision shop quality clear? Try our Euro Clear or Production Clear. Both are two coat products even if buffed.
We are known on enthusiast message forums worldwide for our Epoxy Primer. All four colors have outstanding adhesion to metals and aluminum, excellent chemical resistance, outstanding corrosion protection and can be easily sanded by wet sanding, dry sanding or DA sanding. You can also apply body filler and 2K primer over our Epoxy Primer for up to 7 days without sanding.
All of our 2K Primers have exceptional filling properties, sand in 30-60 minutes and dont require the use of a paint sealer. Our Turbo Primer is even 100% sand scratch / shrink free after only 3 hours of air drying due to the state of the art resin system we use.
-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Friday 3rd of January 2014 09:21:59 PM
694279 said
Jan 3, 2014
paint it base clear easer to repair and repaint ......... do it right the first time
Hey all
Well this weekend is the time I plan to put the 49 into epoxy primer,so step 1 of the paint job.I plan to go over that with 2k high build and block sand that out.I'm not sure if I have to use primer sealer over that,one website says yes,the next says no.Anyways my original paint was acrylic enamel the color is whiltshire maroon.Noe I can order it direct from autocolor library and they will ship to Canada no problem.The local body shop supply has no listing for the 49 Canadian cars just the u.s so I think it would be called poly wine from chevy.So I could take the original fenderskirts down and have them color match them as they are in excellent shape paint wise.My question is since i'm sparaying the car nyself what would you use for paint.They can make acrylic enamel no problem locally i'm just wondering if there is a better alternative to use.I don't mind color sanding and buffing as I have done that before.The original finish from chevy was pretty orange peely from the factory so i'm sure my job will be smoother and shinyer than the factory ever was.Any suggestions out there?Excited to get some primer on and see the car all one color again.I think I will let it dry a few weeks before the 2k is applied.
I will always swear by base coat clear coat, even for our old rides because my 57 Pontiac in 1997 was sprayed with it and as of 2014 it looks just as new as the day it was sprayed............ i mean it looks no less for wear at all. I love the fact that base coat clear coat is so easy to repair and blend, unlike other types of paint. I use to love urethane paints but the cost is out of this universe now. Cheers. George.
I personally prefer base/clear coat ,Im not a prof painter just a hobby, but painted my 57 in back yard ( guinea pig for painting ),also painted my friends 69 firebird. Found that with clear coat, if you scratch the clear durring assembly you can wet sand it out and put more clear ontop without actually touching the color (base ) and it always looks shiny.Good luck on 49,cant wait to see it in color! Here's a pic of firewall I just painted with base clear. If painting yourself I think base clear is more user friendly, if you get a run in the clear just wetsand it out.They all have pros and cons.
When my daily driver Chev. trucks need cab corners &/or rocker panels, its also usually time to completely paint the 10-15 year old 4x4.
- last one stripped to bare metal (using Circa 1850) and D/A sanded it with 80 grit
- 2 coats of Epoxy primer
- 3 coats of Urethane high build primer
- wet sanded up to 400 grit
- borrowed a down draft spray booth
- sprayed top coat in 3 coats of Urethane, amazing durable finish, laid really flat, great shine for 5 years till I sold the GMC
Got to do cab corners on my 1998 CHEV. 3/4 ton 4x4, this summer (already have TX tailgate & mint rust free doors, set aside).
- I'm not going to spend an arm & a leg fortune, repainting a vehicle worth $10K or less...very respectful paint jobs can be done, without blowing the budget
a) paint supplies on the cheap side (standard colors)...check these links:
www.paintforcars.com/
directbuyautobodysupply.com/AWSCategories/p/7/Clearcoats
b) premium paint supplies with decend pricing...check link:
www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
At Southern Polyurethanes our goal as a premium coatings manufacture is to provide you with the finest clears, primers, solvents and additives available today using only the best raw materials and latest technologies. While we dont manufacture a lot of redundant re-labeled products we can assure you what products we do make are comparable if not superior to anything else in their class in the automotive aftermarket at any price.
Now compare our $130 and less gallon kits of clears against the competitors $600 kits of clear and you will see the difference every time. Everything we make is intended to be the best in its class or we simply wont make it. With our clears you turn the booth fan off as soon as the overspray is evacuated and none of our clears require baking, though if you choose to bake they are all low time low temp baking clears. How much money will this save you in electricity and filters per year?
Looking for a show car quality clear with unmatched gloss and clarity? Look no further than our Universal Clear. Thousands of rods, bikes and restorations have been finished with these clears. Both of these clears have excellent chemical resistance and buff easy even months after application.
Need to save a few dollars but want an excellent collision shop quality clear? Try our Euro Clear or Production Clear. Both are two coat products even if buffed.
We are known on enthusiast message forums worldwide for our Epoxy Primer. All four colors have outstanding adhesion to metals and aluminum, excellent chemical resistance, outstanding corrosion protection and can be easily sanded by wet sanding, dry sanding or DA sanding. You can also apply body filler and 2K primer over our Epoxy Primer for up to 7 days without sanding.
All of our 2K Primers have exceptional filling properties, sand in 30-60 minutes and dont require the use of a paint sealer. Our Turbo Primer is even 100% sand scratch / shrink free after only 3 hours of air drying due to the state of the art resin system we use.
-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Friday 3rd of January 2014 09:21:59 PM