If anyone is contemplating a front end alignment on a 1965-1970 Chevy/Canadian Pontiac B body Id like to offer a suggestion.
Many alignment specs still call for negative caster and this is one of the main culprits that cause steering "wander" while highway driving.
Simply aligning with positive caster will make these cars drive far nicer. Negative caster makes parking lot steering slightly lighter with manual steering, at the expense of driving stability on the road.
I mentioned this to my buddy John (JC2+2), and I think he will agree that his 1968 Parisienne 2+2 steers much better with a few degrees of positive caster. Caster is adjusted by the threaded strut rods that connect the front lower control arms to the chassis, John is an experienced mechanic so he made the adjustment himself at home.
Hopefully someone will benefit from this small tip!!
Thanks
Randy
4SPEED427 said
Mar 27, 2015
I'll likely be getting the guys to align my 66 this summer. I will have to try that. Do you have a specific number to aim for?
GLHS60 said
Mar 27, 2015
Anything positive will be a help, try for at least +4 deg. if your alignment guy is cooperative. Many aren't as the nuts on the strut rod are often seized up as they have never been turned. If you happen to be replacing the bushings that's a great time to free up the nuts.
Thanks
Randy
4SPEED427 said
Mar 27, 2015
My alignment guy is also my coworker so I won't have an issue with that!
seventy2plus2 said
Mar 27, 2015
I'll keep that in mind when I get the alignment done on the Parisienne.
cdnpont said
Mar 27, 2015
Thats truly a great tip Randy. Without a doubt, it's one of the key ways to better handling on the B.
New guys to the B Body hobby usually don't know it. And I've been reading it for years.
Unfortunately, like you said, most original cdn (even low mile) front strut rods cannot be brought into a real positive due to corrosion. You're essentially looking to pull the rods almost the way to the limit forward. To start, usually the sleeve within the rubber bushing is frozen to the rod thread. And then the thread in that zone is pooched. That is even if you can turn the nuts.
Then the thread itself towards the arm is bad. Try bringing the nuts down towards the arm across that crap. Nope. Take the rod out and run a die across it. Fine, problem is, one is left hand thread, the other is right. Those dies are not usually not found in your average tool box.
So you now are motivated to spend $400 on new aftermarket rods.
427carl said
Mar 27, 2015
Got my old 66 aligned last year, after new BB springs and NOS shocks.... it was a positive experience......
cdnpont said
Mar 27, 2015
How's she handle Carl?
427carl said
Mar 27, 2015
Great ! steering was sweet !! I put the 15 inch OE wheel on and its all over the road (especially with the p.s.) The aftermarket 13 inch wheel was perfect ...
seventy2plus2 said
Mar 27, 2015
cdnpont wrote:
Fine, problem is, one is left hand thread, the other is right.
The the strut rods on the 69 chassis were both right hand threads, same with what was on the 70 chassis. While off the car I sandblasted the strut rods, and ran a die over them to clean up the threads.
cdnpont said
Mar 27, 2015
I swear one was right, one left. I'm gettin old.
JC2+2 said
Mar 28, 2015
cdnpont wrote:
I swear one was right, one left. I'm gettin old.
Both RH thread on my '68 too. Maybe you're thinking the how the inner and outer nuts go opposite directions to tighten against the rubber bushing. Or not. The reason I even adjusted in the first place is after replacing front springs my camber and caster both went negative. I removed shims equally to straighten the camber And turned the strut rod nuts equally to gain caster. Randy told me about this old alignment guy back in the day giving these cars extra caster so I tried it. Sure it should have an alignment to fine tune but I can't believe it's the same car with the extra caster. No wander and I've actually got feel now. Night and day.
cdnpont said
Mar 28, 2015
Yes, with the extra caster it really did make a significant difference. I think it will help the feel, regardless of the overall condition of your front end. Sort of a quick fix so to speak.
A good, easy to do mod for any 65-70.
OURWAGON said
Mar 28, 2015
HAS ANY ONE DONE THIS WITH A 63, 64 X FRAME.
MORE CASTER ??
GLHS60 said
Mar 28, 2015
1965-1970 were the worst offenders as they often called for negative caster in the alignment specs. 1958-1964 was a far better front end, and normally called for a bit of positive but any extra will just help your on the road feel.
If anyone is contemplating a front end alignment on a 1965-1970 Chevy/Canadian Pontiac B body Id like to offer a suggestion.
Many alignment specs still call for negative caster and this is one of the main culprits that cause steering "wander" while highway driving.
Simply aligning with positive caster will make these cars drive far nicer. Negative caster makes parking lot steering slightly lighter with manual steering, at the expense of driving stability on the road.
I mentioned this to my buddy John (JC2+2), and I think he will agree that his 1968 Parisienne 2+2 steers much better with a few degrees of positive caster. Caster is adjusted by the threaded strut rods that connect the front lower control arms to the chassis, John is an experienced mechanic so he made the adjustment himself at home.
Hopefully someone will benefit from this small tip!!
Thanks
Randy
Thanks
Randy
I'll keep that in mind when I get the alignment done on the Parisienne.
Thats truly a great tip Randy. Without a doubt, it's one of the key ways to better handling on the B.
New guys to the B Body hobby usually don't know it. And I've been reading it for years.
Unfortunately, like you said, most original cdn (even low mile) front strut rods cannot be brought into a real positive due to corrosion. You're essentially looking to pull the rods almost the way to the limit forward. To start, usually the sleeve within the rubber bushing is frozen to the rod thread. And then the thread in that zone is pooched. That is even if you can turn the nuts.
Then the thread itself towards the arm is bad. Try bringing the nuts down towards the arm across that crap. Nope. Take the rod out and run a die across it. Fine, problem is, one is left hand thread, the other is right. Those dies are not usually not found in your average tool box.
So you now are motivated to spend $400 on new aftermarket rods.
Got my old 66 aligned last year, after new BB springs and NOS shocks.... it was a positive experience......
How's she handle Carl?
Great ! steering was sweet !! I put the 15 inch OE wheel on and its all over the road (especially with the p.s.) The aftermarket 13 inch wheel was perfect ...
The the strut rods on the 69 chassis were both right hand threads, same with what was on the 70 chassis. While off the car I sandblasted the strut rods, and ran a die over them to clean up the threads.
I swear one was right, one left. I'm gettin old.
Both RH thread on my '68 too. Maybe you're thinking the how the inner and outer nuts go opposite directions to tighten against the rubber bushing. Or not. The reason I even adjusted in the first place is after replacing front springs my camber and caster both went negative. I removed shims equally to straighten the camber And turned the strut rod nuts equally to gain caster. Randy told me about this old alignment guy back in the day giving these cars extra caster so I tried it. Sure it should have an alignment to fine tune but I can't believe it's the same car with the extra caster. No wander and I've actually got feel now. Night and day.
Yes, with the extra caster it really did make a significant difference. I think it will help the feel, regardless of the overall condition of your front end. Sort of a quick fix so to speak.
A good, easy to do mod for any 65-70.
HAS ANY ONE DONE THIS WITH A 63, 64 X FRAME.
MORE CASTER ??
Thanks
Randy