I am looking for opinions or recommendations for my project.
I have a 1950 Pontiac 2 door Silver Streak , my car, hoops , my first mistake, my wife's car has a complete inline 6 cylinder six, 239 cu.in . with 6.5:1 CR and develops 93 hp @ 3,400 rpm and 170 ft /pds of torque @ 1200 rpm, at least that is what I read. It is complete with the 3 speed stand on the column and the torque tube differential, not sue of the gear ratio. The engine is free, if I turn the fan , the belt is taught enough that it turns the crank. The car has been sitting in a barn with wooden floors since 1974, when it was parked with only 44,000 miles on it.
My plan is to remove the engine and send it to a reputable shop in New Brunswick to have it tore down and checked for it's integrity, ie " cracks " . If the block is good, I read the article I think it was posted by the Tin Man on how to increase the CR in these engines (boring and stroking ), My question to this forum is; Is this worth my time and money, will this car be able to go the road @ 70 mph and run around 1700 to 2,000 rpm?
Comments are really appreciated
Dale
50sedandelivery said
Oct 4, 2016
My advice would be to get it running and see how it performs before tearing it down. These engines are very strong and reliable and since yours is low milage it probably has good life left in it. Oil up the cylinder walls through the plug holes first so as not to crack any rings. There is a high compression head that was used on the later engines that might give you the CR you're looking for without re-boring, but you may not get the rpm's down that low at 70 mph. I have OS pistons if you go that route.
Fitz would probably have better knowledge though.
Fitz said
Oct 5, 2016
Those 6 are very reliable. Yours is a 3 speeds, so a fairly high diff ratio. Those cars can run at 70 mph no problems. You must DON'T start the engine, unless you remove the pan, and clean the oïl filter!
Also, remove the water pump and the water tube, clean seriously the water passage with pressure washer, you NEED to do this, in order to make the engine running correctly. You need to look at the distributor, the vacuum must work, and the mechanical advance too.
Clean the carburator, and replace the kit. Change spark plug and breaker point, use fresh oïl, 15w40 diesel. Use a Jerry can for gas and you are set! Start your engine.
Don't bother to change it to 12 volts, it's not Worth it. When fixed, those 6 volts are fine and reliable. It's start until minus 10 with ease.
other questions?
Fitz.
silver steak said
Oct 6, 2016
Thanks Fitz
I have my car in the hoist ready to remove the coach, all fenders, inner fenders, heater and ventilation boxes are removed. My plan is have nothing but the frame on four wheels with the radiator, motor, transmission and rear differential totally exposed. Then I will do as per your recommendation by cleaning outside of motor and then inside, then follow through and check the transmission and finally the torque tube and differential changing oils as I go.
Right now I know my brake master cylinder is seized so I will eventually have the redo the internals.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.
-- Edited by silver steak on Thursday 6th of October 2016 12:36:51 PM
Fitz said
Oct 6, 2016
If you need any other help let us know!! you are at the right place.
Fitz.
silver steak said
Oct 7, 2016
Hi Fitz
Another stupid question, and I will apologize for the many number of questions.
How do I remove the steering column post from the steering sector ( steering box ). ?
I want to leave the column mounted to the dash and remove the whole column with the coach ?
I have already disconnected the shift levers, that was easy.
Regards
Fitz said
Oct 8, 2016
Not sure to understand correctly.
Â
do you want to remove the external tube from the steering box? If I'm right, it's no.
Â
Fitz.
PS: don't apologize, those cars must run, and it's a pleasure to help those who want to get those Pontiac go back on duty. And don't forget this: if you begin to apologize for asking questions, I'll apologize for my bad English! so keep quiet..!
firstdancebridalcars said
Oct 9, 2016
The whole steering column is removed as a unit through the engine bay so steering wheel is removed first. If left connected to the car when the body is removed the weight may damage the clamp that holds the column to the dash.
silver steak said
Oct 26, 2016
Thanks, after a much closer look, firstdancebridlecars was right on and that is what I did. It was quite a job to get the center cover removed from the steering wheel, but I had no other objectives for the evening, and all went fine. Thanks again for the advice.
Hello Everyone,
I am looking for opinions or recommendations for my project.
I have a 1950 Pontiac 2 door Silver Streak , my car, hoops , my first mistake, my wife's car has a complete inline 6 cylinder six, 239 cu.in . with 6.5:1 CR and develops 93 hp @ 3,400 rpm and 170 ft /pds of torque @ 1200 rpm, at least that is what I read. It is complete with the 3 speed stand on the column and the torque tube differential, not sue of the gear ratio. The engine is free, if I turn the fan , the belt is taught enough that it turns the crank. The car has been sitting in a barn with wooden floors since 1974, when it was parked with only 44,000 miles on it.
My plan is to remove the engine and send it to a reputable shop in New Brunswick to have it tore down and checked for it's integrity, ie " cracks " . If the block is good, I read the article I think it was posted by the Tin Man on how to increase the CR in these engines (boring and stroking ), My question to this forum is; Is this worth my time and money, will this car be able to go the road @ 70 mph and run around 1700 to 2,000 rpm?
Comments are really appreciated
Dale
Fitz would probably have better knowledge though.
Those 6 are very reliable. Yours is a 3 speeds, so a fairly high diff ratio. Those cars can run at 70 mph no problems. You must DON'T start the engine, unless you remove the pan, and clean the oïl filter!
Also, remove the water pump and the water tube, clean seriously the water passage with pressure washer, you NEED to do this, in order to make the engine running correctly. You need to look at the distributor, the vacuum must work, and the mechanical advance too.
Clean the carburator, and replace the kit. Change spark plug and breaker point, use fresh oïl, 15w40 diesel. Use a Jerry can for gas and you are set! Start your engine.
Don't bother to change it to 12 volts, it's not Worth it. When fixed, those 6 volts are fine and reliable. It's start until minus 10 with ease.
other questions?
Fitz.
Thanks Fitz
I have my car in the hoist ready to remove the coach, all fenders, inner fenders, heater and ventilation boxes are removed. My plan is have nothing but the frame on four wheels with the radiator, motor, transmission and rear differential totally exposed. Then I will do as per your recommendation by cleaning outside of motor and then inside, then follow through and check the transmission and finally the torque tube and differential changing oils as I go.
Right now I know my brake master cylinder is seized so I will eventually have the redo the internals.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.
-- Edited by silver steak on Thursday 6th of October 2016 12:36:51 PM
If you need any other help let us know!! you are at the right place.
Fitz.
Hi Fitz
Another stupid question, and I will apologize for the many number of questions.
How do I remove the steering column post from the steering sector ( steering box ). ?
I want to leave the column mounted to the dash and remove the whole column with the coach ?
I have already disconnected the shift levers, that was easy.
Regards
Not sure to understand correctly.
Â
do you want to remove the external tube from the steering box? If I'm right, it's no.
Â
Fitz.
PS: don't apologize, those cars must run, and it's a pleasure to help those who want to get those Pontiac go back on duty. And don't forget this: if you begin to apologize for asking questions, I'll apologize for my bad English! so keep quiet..!