Well some progress today and some utter frustration.So I started wiring in the new 6 volt turn signal switch.So followed the instructions and wired it up.The rf and lf park lights work as they should as turn signals and I only have power at those two wires when the signal switch is tripped.I assume they only work as turn signals as they are singe filament bulbs.I have headlights although no high beams,i suspect a bad dimmer switch and I have a new one to install.Now I have rear running lights when I turn the headlight switch on although they seem a bit dim but I've heard that is rather normal.I ran brand new wires from the switch to the rear signal lights but I seem to have constant power to the lights even with the turn signal switch in the neutral position,no pulse like the front lights,just constant power.Flasher ticks like it should and is brand new.Almost like the new signal switch is miswired from the factory.I do have the original signal stat switch and found a diagram for it.It shows wiring it into the ammeter and my car has an orange wire that runs from the ammeter over the roof into the trunk but I have no idea where it connects to.I cannot find any reference to that wire in any wiring diagram but it appears to be a factory original fabric coated wire.So close but so far it seems,wondering if I can just connect the two rear signals into the front ones as those ones seem to work properly.Just don't understand why I am getting constant power at the rear wires that should only have pulse power when activated.
JC2+2 said
Jun 17, 2018
Does this system have the brake lights sharing the same bulb filament as signals wired through the signal switch? Or complete separate brake lights, which do not go through the signal switch?
hwscowboy said
Jun 17, 2018
ok think I got it figured out.I found the old signal stat switch that was in the car when I got it.It even has the switch for the 4 ways on it.Found a diagram and got it wired in and everything is working except the brake lights.I have a leak in one of the brand new wheel cylinders I installed so not enough brake pressure to trip the switch.Oh and that mystery orange wire is for the gas gauge.One step closer.
you mentioned dim taillights, be sure you have a good ground on each side.
Urban_suburban said
Jun 19, 2018
We had a similar issue with the wagon - Ground between the chassis and engine was the issue of all things. We added a braided ground strap and it fixed all the lighting issues
Hey all
Well some progress today and some utter frustration.So I started wiring in the new 6 volt turn signal switch.So followed the instructions and wired it up.The rf and lf park lights work as they should as turn signals and I only have power at those two wires when the signal switch is tripped.I assume they only work as turn signals as they are singe filament bulbs.I have headlights although no high beams,i suspect a bad dimmer switch and I have a new one to install.Now I have rear running lights when I turn the headlight switch on although they seem a bit dim but I've heard that is rather normal.I ran brand new wires from the switch to the rear signal lights but I seem to have constant power to the lights even with the turn signal switch in the neutral position,no pulse like the front lights,just constant power.Flasher ticks like it should and is brand new.Almost like the new signal switch is miswired from the factory.I do have the original signal stat switch and found a diagram for it.It shows wiring it into the ammeter and my car has an orange wire that runs from the ammeter over the roof into the trunk but I have no idea where it connects to.I cannot find any reference to that wire in any wiring diagram but it appears to be a factory original fabric coated wire.So close but so far it seems,wondering if I can just connect the two rear signals into the front ones as those ones seem to work properly.Just don't understand why I am getting constant power at the rear wires that should only have pulse power when activated.
getting closer,starting to look like a car again