I am in the process of a brake conversion from drum to disc on the 68 Grande. I have C3 spindles and hubs I am re-packing new bearings and getting close to installing the hubs on the spindles but I have a few questions on the following:
1) After the bearings are packed, how much grease should you put inside the hub? Do you fill the hubs right up with grease or just put a little grease in the hub and leave a hollow in the middle? What is the rule of thumb?
4SPEED427 said
May 26, 2019
How soon do you need to get it done? I can come and give you a hand, possibly as early as Tuesday evening.
I always put lots of grease on each of the races, like maybe 3/8" thick. Of course the bearings are packed full, then a nice thick layer on the outer part of the bearing after it is packed. And make sure you put some on the rubber lip of the seal all the way around so it doesn't run dry on the spindle when you first start driving. Likely doesn't make a huge difference but good for peace of mind.
I think our kids are both in U of M Tuesday evening for class so I could come in with them and help while they have class.
poncho62 said
May 26, 2019
More grease is better than less.
cdnpont said
May 26, 2019
If you pack it too full, you'll generate heat.
Just a generous smear up in the hub center.
seventy2plus2 said
May 26, 2019
When I did the hubs on my 70 2+2 a couple years ago, after packing the bearings, I put a healthy amount of grease inside the hubs using a plastic knife.
I figured that was about the same amount of grease that was in the hubs when I removed them prior to cleaning.
-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Sunday 26th of May 2019 06:21:37 PM
68 Grande said
May 26, 2019
4SPEED427 wrote:
How soon do you need to get it done? I can come and give you a hand, possibly as early as Tuesday evening.
I always put lots of grease on each of the races, like maybe 3/8" thick. Of course the bearings are packed full, then a nice thick layer on the outer part of the bearing after it is packed. And make sure you put some on the rubber lip of the seal all the way around so it doesn't run dry on the spindle when you first start driving. Likely doesn't make a huge difference but good for peace of mind.
I think our kids are both in U of M Tuesday evening for class so I could come in with them and help while they have class.
Thanks for the offer but my daughter has a softball game on Tuesday. I mocked one up and and smeared about an 1/8th thick on the inside of the hub so the metal is covered.
4SPEED427 said
May 26, 2019
I think a different night would work too. Just say when and if it works I'll come for a ride.
68 Grande said
May 26, 2019
seventy2plus2 wrote:
When I did the hubs on my 70 2+2 a couple years ago, after packing the bearings, I put a healthy amount of grease inside the hubs using a plastic knife.
I figured that was about the same amount of grease that was in the hubs when I removed them prior to cleaning.
These are used C3 hubs that I purchased off of Ebay and they were full of dirty grease. The plastic knives that we seem to collect from drive through fast food joints are great for re-purposing. That is exactly what I used to smear some into the inside of the hub. I smeared about an 1/8th of inch plus inside the hub to cover the metal.
I mocked up a spindle, packed the bearing in my hand (should get a bearing packer) driving the grease in on both sides of the bearing and liberally applied to the race. I hand tightened, spin, spin some more, hand tightened and repeat that a few times then backed off about 1/8 of a turn. Put a little grease on the seal as Carl suggests and Voila!
-- Edited by 68 Grande on Sunday 26th of May 2019 07:20:21 PM
-- Edited by 68 Grande on Sunday 26th of May 2019 08:34:22 PM
I'm not sure what an 1/8th turn computes to as far as where the cotter pin goes in but I always just snug the nut up very gently, then back it off until the cotter pin will go in the first available position and I've never had a failure yet.
68 Grande said
May 26, 2019
cdnpont wrote:
If you pack it too full, you'll generate heat.
Just a generous smear up in the hub center.
Mark, I didn't even check to see if the C3 steering arms that came with the used spindle are simialr or compatible with my 68. Will they be compatible with the 68 B Body?
Looking at these Wildwood calipers, I was thinking to myself, oh man, maybe this is a bit overboard. I wonder where I got this idea from? LOL!
But, I don't care as I was out for a drive the other day and slammed on the brakes and the car pulls to the left. I can't handle that.
cdnpont said
May 26, 2019
Good move! You'll love the Wilwood's Jake. But you will likely need to use your 68 drum setup steering arms. Corvette are different than the 68 B body.
I used 69 Drum arms on my 67 conversion. I think Clint supplied them if not mistaken.
Any 67-70 Drum arm should work. Not sure of the 65-66 fitment as the geometry was different for those years.
I have a pair of 67's you can have if you want them. Better to mock everything up before the conversion starts.
68 Grande said
May 27, 2019
cdnpont wrote:
Good move! You'll love the Wilwood's Jake. But you will likely need to use your 68 drum setup steering arms. Corvette are different than the 68 B body.
I used 69 Drum arms on my 67 conversion. I think Clint supplied them if not mistaken.
Any 67-70 Drum arm should work. Not sure of the 65-66 fitment as the geometry was different for those years.
I have a pair of 67's you can have if you want them. Better to mock everything up before the conversion starts.
PM sent on your arms.
68 Grande said
May 30, 2019
Donation made to CP on behalf of CP Good Guy cdnpont for helping me out!
I am in the process of a brake conversion from drum to disc on the 68 Grande. I have C3 spindles and hubs I am re-packing new bearings and getting close to installing the hubs on the spindles but I have a few questions on the following:
1) After the bearings are packed, how much grease should you put inside the hub? Do you fill the hubs right up with grease or just put a little grease in the hub and leave a hollow in the middle? What is the rule of thumb?
I always put lots of grease on each of the races, like maybe 3/8" thick. Of course the bearings are packed full, then a nice thick layer on the outer part of the bearing after it is packed. And make sure you put some on the rubber lip of the seal all the way around so it doesn't run dry on the spindle when you first start driving. Likely doesn't make a huge difference but good for peace of mind.
I think our kids are both in U of M Tuesday evening for class so I could come in with them and help while they have class.
If you pack it too full, you'll generate heat.
Just a generous smear up in the hub center.
When I did the hubs on my 70 2+2 a couple years ago, after packing the bearings, I put a healthy amount of grease inside the hubs using a plastic knife.
I figured that was about the same amount of grease that was in the hubs when I removed them prior to cleaning.
-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Sunday 26th of May 2019 06:21:37 PM
Thanks for the offer but my daughter has a softball game on Tuesday. I mocked one up and and smeared about an 1/8th thick on the inside of the hub so the metal is covered.
These are used C3 hubs that I purchased off of Ebay and they were full of dirty grease. The plastic knives that we seem to collect from drive through fast food joints are great for re-purposing. That is exactly what I used to smear some into the inside of the hub. I smeared about an 1/8th of inch plus inside the hub to cover the metal.
I mocked up a spindle, packed the bearing in my hand (should get a bearing packer) driving the grease in on both sides of the bearing and liberally applied to the race. I hand tightened, spin, spin some more, hand tightened and repeat that a few times then backed off about 1/8 of a turn. Put a little grease on the seal as Carl suggests and Voila!
-- Edited by 68 Grande on Sunday 26th of May 2019 07:20:21 PM
-- Edited by 68 Grande on Sunday 26th of May 2019 08:34:22 PM
I'm not sure what an 1/8th turn computes to as far as where the cotter pin goes in but I always just snug the nut up very gently, then back it off until the cotter pin will go in the first available position and I've never had a failure yet.
Mark, I didn't even check to see if the C3 steering arms that came with the used spindle are simialr or compatible with my 68. Will they be compatible with the 68 B Body?
Looking at these Wildwood calipers, I was thinking to myself, oh man, maybe this is a bit overboard. I wonder where I got this idea from? LOL!
But, I don't care as I was out for a drive the other day and slammed on the brakes and the car pulls to the left. I can't handle that.
Good move! You'll love the Wilwood's Jake. But you will likely need to use your 68 drum setup steering arms. Corvette are different than the 68 B body.
I used 69 Drum arms on my 67 conversion. I think Clint supplied them if not mistaken.
Any 67-70 Drum arm should work. Not sure of the 65-66 fitment as the geometry was different for those years.
I have a pair of 67's you can have if you want them. Better to mock everything up before the conversion starts.
PM sent on your arms.