I have a question regarding my 68 power booster and namely the push rod. I am in the process of converting the front brake system over to a C3 disc brake system as well as installing new lower and upper control arm bushings and I am in the home stretch a being finished.
But, I have come to a point where I am a bit stumped. In this process, I am switching over to a disc / drum master cylinder and you can see the deep pocket on the original drum / drum master and the shallow pocket on the disc / drum master. I have measured approximately 1 inch and 4/16 needs to come off the push rod and fit into the shallow pocket on the new master.
So, my question is, is the rod removable from the from this 11 inch (I am assuming original) booster?
I can pull on the rod with a pair of pliers and you can feel the spring load of the internal booster but how far can I pull this rod?
On the inboard side of the brake pedal, you can see the clevis attaching to the rod and there is a 3/8 hex rod that will turn out of the clevis and the rod will feel that it is separate from the engine side rod (connected somehow where I can't see). I unscrewed this part but re-attached it as I didn't want to wreck anything but the rod will disconnect from the clevis. While it was disconnected, I gave it a pull from the engine side but not too hard as I didn't want to wreck anything. I then re-attached the rod to the clevis.
Here you can see the two masters, original on the left, new shallow pocket on the right. The new shallow pocket has an insert that appears to be spring loaded that will slide in a bit until it contacts the piston and then moves the piston.
So, my question is, is this rod removable without wrecking the booster? I have read online where someone else was trying to remove the rod and basically destroyed the booster. I really didn't want to do that but if I can't remove it, then I am going to alter the length with the brake pedal applied pushing the rod out and cut it while in the booster.
Just looking for some thoughts or experiences with this type of upgrade / alteration scenario!
Jake
-- Edited by 68 Grande on Monday 22nd of July 2019 08:40:23 AM
yes it just pulls out-I have literally hundreds of rods-short or long if you need one-just be sure you pull it straight out so you don't break the bake lite that holds it in place
JC2+2 said
Jul 22, 2019
When I converted my 68 over I never changed the pushrod and works fine. Your master cylinder looks the same.
68 Grande said
Jul 22, 2019
68sd396rag wrote:
yes it just pulls out-I have literally hundreds of rods-short or long if you need one-just be sure you pull it straight out so you don't break the bake lite that holds it in place
I was pulling straight but that sucker wouldn't release. I have to wonder if it has seized in there? When you mention bake lite, is that the plastic tube that the rod currently rests in?
68 Grande said
Jul 22, 2019
68 Grande wrote:
68sd396rag wrote:
yes it just pulls out-I have literally hundreds of rods-short or long if you need one-just be sure you pull it straight out so you don't break the bake lite that holds it in place
I was pulling straight but that sucker wouldn't release. I have to wonder if it has seized in there? When you mention bake lite, is that the plastic tube that the rod currently rests in?
Got it out! Put a vice grip on it and a shot of crown rust fluid and twisted as straight as possible. That sucker was seized in there.
You can see the corrosion on the tip, the little o-ring (which 68SD and Cdn Pont said would be there) and then a rusty barrel. These rusty corroded areas were inside the bake lite. I am just happy I didn't wreck anything!
Good morning Poncho nation,
I have a question regarding my 68 power booster and namely the push rod. I am in the process of converting the front brake system over to a C3 disc brake system as well as installing new lower and upper control arm bushings and I am in the home stretch a being finished.
But, I have come to a point where I am a bit stumped. In this process, I am switching over to a disc / drum master cylinder and you can see the deep pocket on the original drum / drum master and the shallow pocket on the disc / drum master. I have measured approximately 1 inch and 4/16 needs to come off the push rod and fit into the shallow pocket on the new master.
So, my question is, is the rod removable from the from this 11 inch (I am assuming original) booster?
I can pull on the rod with a pair of pliers and you can feel the spring load of the internal booster but how far can I pull this rod?
On the inboard side of the brake pedal, you can see the clevis attaching to the rod and there is a 3/8 hex rod that will turn out of the clevis and the rod will feel that it is separate from the engine side rod (connected somehow where I can't see). I unscrewed this part but re-attached it as I didn't want to wreck anything but the rod will disconnect from the clevis. While it was disconnected, I gave it a pull from the engine side but not too hard as I didn't want to wreck anything. I then re-attached the rod to the clevis.
Here you can see the two masters, original on the left, new shallow pocket on the right. The new shallow pocket has an insert that appears to be spring loaded that will slide in a bit until it contacts the piston and then moves the piston.
So, my question is, is this rod removable without wrecking the booster? I have read online where someone else was trying to remove the rod and basically destroyed the booster. I really didn't want to do that but if I can't remove it, then I am going to alter the length with the brake pedal applied pushing the rod out and cut it while in the booster.
Just looking for some thoughts or experiences with this type of upgrade / alteration scenario!
Jake
-- Edited by 68 Grande on Monday 22nd of July 2019 08:40:23 AM
I was pulling straight but that sucker wouldn't release. I have to wonder if it has seized in there? When you mention bake lite, is that the plastic tube that the rod currently rests in?
Got it out! Put a vice grip on it and a shot of crown rust fluid and twisted as straight as possible. That sucker was seized in there.
You can see the corrosion on the tip, the little o-ring (which 68SD and Cdn Pont said would be there) and then a rusty barrel. These rusty corroded areas were inside the bake lite. I am just happy I didn't wreck anything!