Ok I'm going to try posting here some stuff about my motor and tranny re and re with pics......as soon as I can figure out how to move those pics from my windows 10 pc to the forum right side up !! We'll see... Anyhow in the mean time where do we stand on exhaust gaskets as applied to stock manifolds? none...singles...singles back to back...or full length?. How about best quality non-urethane engine mounts...and proper exhaust manifold to choke and air breather tubes? I've got my motor and tranny out on deck for this stuff...any opinions are received gratefully..
4SPEED427 said
Jan 2, 2020
The lengthy debate on manifold gaskets on a small block was just that, a debate with neither side conceding!
Engine mounts? Man, that's a challenge finding a quality part. The GM number for that mount is 3990914. The standard jobber number for it is 2267 with some brands having an 8 in front of that number, or I've seen an M in front of it as well. Lots of junk out there, look for one with nice thick steel. I can post a picture of a cheap piece of junk jobber mounts that irritated me for hours when I tried to install them years back. After hours of grinding shimming and fitting I gave up and found NOS mounts. Bolted them on, dropped the engine down, perfect fit first try.
otus said
Jan 2, 2020
Yikes...these old mounts are "just" starting to separate at the high side. I think I could re use them for sure..BUT..would that be prudent having them out right now? I see an elongated hole on these mounts that I don't on many available on the web...Where did you you find your NOS units??
I had a struggle finding NOS mounts. I think most of them came from eBay although I did find a set on Craigslist in California. I've learned I'll gladly pay a premium for NOS when I need them. I'm done with jobber mounts unless I can find one that looks like a really good quality part. I think I have one if that helps you anyting. It seems to me I found a stray one and bought it. it's probably been bolted on an engine for fitting but I know I never actually used it.
otus said
Jan 2, 2020
4SPEED427 said
Jan 3, 2020
There's an old number for that 3990914 mount also, 3989488.
cdnpont said
Jan 3, 2020
I had brand new locking oem style in place when I put the HO350 in my 67, one separated the rubber after only a year. I then put a pair of Prothane mounts in their place since no good reliable replacement was available at the time.
Have to say there was no real negative difference in feel. Felt just as smooth all round, with maybe just a firmer telegraph of power on quick acceleration. My 496 has them with a semi rough, sharp idle, doesn't shake or rattle the car in any significant way.
I don't mean to hijack with this poly talk, but other than the non stock appearance, I don't get the resistance towards them. But regardless, good luck on your search for good new or nos oem, I'm sure they are out there.
otus said
Jan 3, 2020
I thought about the Prothane mounts. I've never used any but in my mind I thought about possible vibration issues.That is the reason I also bought rubber for my body mounts.It did take some time to find what I think are quality ones. Bare with me and my pic posting probs! I would go for your lone mount Carl...I'll only have half the work to do to find a mate! lol
At least they're right side up! 57 years worth of grime comes in to view. I didn't realize that my picker wouldn't reach so I made up a new jib for it. The load leveller which I just bought is a great tool..I've never had one of these.Always used a chain on the diagonal with a bolt through it. I looked at quite a few of these and settled on this OTC unit. It seems well made. A little nerve wracking lifting so high for sure! I also spoiled myself and bought an engine stand with a crank on it pure decadence I tried amazon which said it had stock but didn't so I got it from Summit Racing..very quick and no extra Fedex bills...
cdnpont said
Jan 3, 2020
I love those balancers. Makes it so easy to adjust an engine and trans in or out in one peice a little at a time. One clearance trick I learned was to raise the rear end up as high as practical. It lowers the rad support a couple of inches.
DonSSDD said
Jan 4, 2020
Ive used poly mounts on trannies, engines, and body mounts with no issues. If you want quality parts, check Show Cars and speak with Bruce. He will tell you the quality of anything they sell.
Check Rockauto, they will list brand names for their parts, at least you can choose to order or not if the brands are familiar.
otus said
Jan 5, 2020
Thanks Don. I went ahead and ordered Summit's mounts.They are urethane in black and grey. I also got the drop down fuel line kit for the 1406 carb. It comes with a filter.I ordered black.I do like a filter I can see into but small ones for hard plumbing seem pricy. I ordered a couple of pump to carb lines as well. I will choose the best fit and crop it to fit the new filter set up.I can get a correct 2 bbl hard line but I'll get that after I find the correct intake and carb. I've picked up a few other tidbits..spark plug wire holders,torque converter seal, new throttle spring etc. I think I will replace the valve guide seals while I'm doin this.O-rings and umbrellas I think...I used to do that somewhere in another life! Meanwhile I scratched around in the grime and have determined that my motor is 283 manufactured late 62 and is the original engine for my car. The heads are the 60cc "896" castings and are dated coded identicle...Dec 62. My tranny is a first version aluminum case unit with the correct tail shaft for 63 Impala SS or Corvette or in this case my Canadian Poncho! The number on the pan indicates Cleveland Nov 14 dayshift. The plate with converter seal in it shows Oct 29 62..Now I feel confident that this is all original to the car stuff except for the 2 gear ratio tag thing on my diff..It's a correctly coded Canadian "P" case with 336 gears but for some reason there's a 411 tag on it as well...Think I'll leave it on... The picture showing the t-shaft shows a piece of exhaust pipe the correct size with a washer welded on. I slipped this in and didn't spill any dextron...
That convertible I parted out seemed to be a very original car too. It had a power seat and tilt, bench seat though, not buckets.
otus said
Jan 7, 2020
I've got the valve covers,pan,and timing chain cover off and popped out an expansion plug. The block is very clean in the water jacket area.I see that the drain plugs have been out so it's probably been flushed out once or twice. There are 4 newer rocker arms and nuts..It seems to me that somewhere long ago I had to change 1 or 2 because they broke right where they rock....I haven't removed any yet but the springs seem so small that I'm not sure if umbrellas will fit in there! The oil pump is original and the screen is virtually spotless. The timing chain is also original..the pics show the stretch.It was contacting the cover on the lee side around 2 oclock.
Once you get the rear frost plugs out, see how much gook is behind the #7 & #8 cylinders.
otus said
Jan 7, 2020
I'm guessing that's where all the crap accumulates? I'll let you know! Meanwhile I just had to show you guys this 58 year old timing cover seal with a legible gm number on it!
Part of this exercise for me is learning tech stuff like sizing and posting pics on this or any other forum. My son who lives too far away from me is a wizard at it, but distance and time(he has a family) get in the way. Non-the-less I am learning albeit somewhat slower than I used to....The main seal was almost part of the block. I had to let all of the main caps loose to get that bugger outa there. It's done..timing gear and hub sleeve and cover done.I'll get everything together and then give it a rattle can face lift...Carl, my paint choice is not what I like but "they" quit makin my favorite ...Valspar 200 Chevy Orange. Lots of work to clean all this manually ... a rebuild would be easier ... trying not to get too many crumbs in the internals is painful. The photo of the blocks of wood is what I did to stop "shock" when I beat the front crank hub(sleeved cause of the groove) back on with a piece of brass pipe and a chunk of wood
Why are you banging on the crank hub? Go rent a harmonic balancer installation tool.
otus said
Jan 9, 2020
Frost plug at 7&8 definitely had a bit of goop but not much. The crank shaft on these old 283's are not drilled for a bolt ..I am unaware of any tool (without making one up to hug the entire block) to use to get this hub back on. So many guys,myself included, just bump them back on. A chunk of wood and a decent hammer...six bumps and it's on.Now some guys will get the crank tapped if it's out while rebuilding or drill it out themselves.This is a small hub not a "balancer". I put the bits of wood at the back end so I wouldn't be hammering against the thrust ring or main bearings..nothin to it!
Ok I'm going to try posting here some stuff about my motor and tranny re and re with pics......as soon as I can figure out how to move those pics from my windows 10 pc to the forum right side up !! We'll see... Anyhow in the mean time where do we stand on exhaust gaskets as applied to stock manifolds? none...singles...singles back to back...or full length?. How about best quality non-urethane engine mounts...and proper exhaust manifold to choke and air breather tubes? I've got my motor and tranny out on deck for this stuff...any opinions are received gratefully..
Engine mounts? Man, that's a challenge finding a quality part. The GM number for that mount is 3990914. The standard jobber number for it is 2267 with some brands having an 8 in front of that number, or I've seen an M in front of it as well. Lots of junk out there, look for one with nice thick steel. I can post a picture of a cheap piece of junk jobber mounts that irritated me for hours when I tried to install them years back. After hours of grinding shimming and fitting I gave up and found NOS mounts. Bolted them on, dropped the engine down, perfect fit first try.
I had a struggle finding NOS mounts. I think most of them came from eBay although I did find a set on Craigslist in California. I've learned I'll gladly pay a premium for NOS when I need them. I'm done with jobber mounts unless I can find one that looks like a really good quality part. I think I have one if that helps you anyting. It seems to me I found a stray one and bought it. it's probably been bolted on an engine for fitting but I know I never actually used it.
I had brand new locking oem style in place when I put the HO350 in my 67, one separated the rubber after only a year. I then put a pair of Prothane mounts in their place since no good reliable replacement was available at the time.
Have to say there was no real negative difference in feel. Felt just as smooth all round, with maybe just a firmer telegraph of power on quick acceleration. My 496 has them with a semi rough, sharp idle, doesn't shake or rattle the car in any significant way.
I don't mean to hijack with this poly talk, but other than the non stock appearance, I don't get the resistance towards them. But regardless, good luck on your search for good new or nos oem, I'm sure they are out there.
a
I love those balancers. Makes it so easy to adjust an engine and trans in or out in one peice a little at a time. One clearance trick I learned was to raise the rear end up as high as practical. It lowers the rad support a couple of inches.
Check Rockauto, they will list brand names for their parts, at least you can choose to order or not if the brands are familiar.
Thanks Don. I went ahead and ordered Summit's mounts.They are urethane in black and grey. I also got the drop down fuel line kit for the 1406 carb. It comes with a filter.I ordered black.I do like a filter I can see into but small ones for hard plumbing seem pricy. I ordered a couple of pump to carb lines as well. I will choose the best fit and crop it to fit the new filter set up.I can get a correct 2 bbl hard line but I'll get that after I find the correct intake and carb. I've picked up a few other tidbits..spark plug wire holders,torque converter seal, new throttle spring etc. I think I will replace the valve guide seals while I'm doin this.O-rings and umbrellas I think...I used to do that somewhere in another life! Meanwhile I scratched around in the grime and have determined that my motor is 283 manufactured late 62 and is the original engine for my car. The heads are the 60cc "896" castings and are dated coded identicle...Dec 62. My tranny is a first version aluminum case unit with the correct tail shaft for 63 Impala SS or Corvette or in this case my Canadian Poncho! The number on the pan indicates Cleveland Nov 14 dayshift. The plate with converter seal in it shows Oct 29 62..Now I feel confident that this is all original to the car stuff except for the 2 gear ratio tag thing on my diff..It's a correctly coded Canadian "P" case with 336 gears but for some reason there's a 411 tag on it as well...Think I'll leave it on... The picture showing the t-shaft shows a piece of exhaust pipe the correct size with a washer welded on. I slipped this in and didn't spill any dextron...
Duplicolour makes a great Chevy Orange (Canadian Tire).
Do not eat sandwiches while cracking open an engine!
Why are you banging on the crank hub? Go rent a harmonic balancer installation tool.