The shims shown are added or subtracted to correct the angle of camber. 
unequal amounts of shim(front bolt and rear bolt) will adjust your caster.

Riddler wrote:

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Blah, thought it used a camber bolt on the lower control arm. So adding spacers would cause the bottom of the tire to tilt inwards?

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 Adding shims will pull the top of the tire inwards.

And Welcome to the site from another Winnipeger.

Welcome to CP!

The lower control arm camber bolt is your adjustment on the 67. However, occasionally owing to frame sag, you'll run out of the ability to get out of excessive negative camber with just the camber bolt on a 65-70. Moog makes a offset upper control arm shaft to correct this.

Guys have been known to shim the rear bolts like Pete suggests, even on the 65-70 to add extra caster by moving the upper ball joint backwards. Stock strut rod adjustment (no more threads) can limit the amount of obtainable positive caster.

With modern tires, the chassis responds much better with a larger than stock caster number. This is at least what I've learned to be true on my 67.

Thanks for the clarification, i need to pay more attention to the 65 up section. 

It's a very heavy bolt passing through the frame and the inside end of the lower control arm. Has a offset or eccentric washer attached on one end, and a corresponding free one on the nut end. The threaded portion of the bolt has a flat to position the washer.

Turning the bolt causes it to move (or cam) the entire arm inward or outward. 

The head of the bolt can be gotten through a forward opening in the crossmember. The nut is seen on the rear side. The entire bolt with washers can be turned using the convenient hex on the nut end.

The bolt head and nut are 1 1/8" 

Yes. Once loosened they will rotate pretty freely.

Make a little mark on both free washers on the ends and the frame before you make any moves. That way you'll know where you were as a reference.

Just to note, tire wear as you describe can be caused by more than Camber. And changing the camber bolt position will drastically effect your toe and caster to a lesser degree.

Question; car sitting on flat level ground, wheels straight. Do the wheels appear 90 degrees to the floor looking at the front of the car? Are the bottoms out more than the tops, or is it the opposite? As silly as it sounds, you can see excessive positive or negative camber with just your eye.

You're on the right track then. 

You could do a DIY tape measure toe when you get your camber closer to the eye. At least a reasonable toe to make it to your new alignment shop.

Good luck. Take pictures, we'd all like to see more of your car Greg!

Hello Riddler from another Wpg'r.

I did a complete front end job on my 68 last year, with ball joints, tie rod ends, 3 1/4 turn steering box, etc, and then I took the car to Rosenort Motors for an alignment. Did a great job and the car drives wonderful. I should dig out the specs but I know I used the same specs as seventy2plus2 had posted on this site.

If you do a complete rebuild, you will need a die most likely to clean up the threads on the caster adjustment rod.

Just adding a bit on this topic.  Here is the link for a CP discussion on the alignment specs.  https://canadianponcho.activeboard.com/t65870893/time-for-front-end-work/

I tried to get my camber and caster as close as possible after my rebuild and I used the concentric bolt at the bottom of the lower control arm for camber.  I had to loosen the big nut and then turn the bolt on the other end that adjusts camber.  I also followed the great tips offered by CP members however my efforts proved not very good as my measurements stunk but they were good enough to drive to the Rosenort shop.  Needless to say, I was way out and the alignment was worth the money.

I used seventy2plus2 alignment specs for a blue print on my specs and its great.