Having a little bit of trouble with my column switch, the little switch assembly is really fussy. To help troubleshoot I decided to actually figure out how that little mystery switch works, and what is what.
Seeing as it's a hit and miss on the web, I created a diagram for us showing how the contact pins and springs relate, and to which wires they connect in the curved harness plugs.
At least with this you could quickly find, power and troubleshoot the feeds out to the bulbs from the dash plug, and test the switch. Note: on the body side of the harness, the signal indicators in the cluster are connected to the L/R front signal outputs. On Taiwan, the left front signal could be light blue.
So, in a nutshell,
When applying the brakes, contact is made at the brake switch, sending current through the Black/White wire to pin A. Both rear brake lamp pins E/F are in constant contact with A through their respective pins, so applying brake feeds both simultaneously.
Applying left signal moves the E pin spring off the A feed pin(brake switch) pin, and into contact with the B feed spring. Then both springs contact the front signal lamp output pin C. Now front and back left signals are fed off the flasher unit.
The same happens when selecting the right signal. Signal applied when braking, the one signal side selected disconnects from the brake switch and is fed from the flasher. The other brake lamp stays fed from the brake switch.
Now I can get to work on mine. Anything to add, please do. cheers.
It took some work to design that switch didn't it......
Same switch in my 65 Acadian. Years ago when I took it apart I just stared at it for a while and marvelled at the creativity!
I was able to get my original switch to work well again just by removing each of the pieces that were removable and scuffing them up real well. They had built up crud that insulated the contacts over their 50 year life.
cdnpont said
Oct 18, 2020
Thats exactly what I did Carl, used Deoxit and a toothbrush. And a light pass on the contacts with scotchbright.
Turned out I needed to use the brake light spring and lever cam from the newer switch, and some creative bending and shaping to get it right. But it works great now.
4SPEED427 said
Oct 18, 2020
I had never thought of trying to repair one until I got my repro and it was a cheap looking (and cheap feeling) piece of garbage. I know for one of my cars I also bought an NOS piece, which was excellent as well. No more repro signal switches for me though...
jmont64 said
Oct 18, 2020
Yeah, right on the repro switches. I put a repro one on the Beaumont when I built it and it lasted a little over a year. Found a used one in the mean time and its been in there 10 years plus. I did an upgrade on the cancelling piece though about 5 years ago. Should be good for awhile yet.
cdnpont said
Oct 18, 2020
The repops just don't seem to have that "click". Good thing is, you can somewhat mix and match the parts between the two. From experience, each switch box fits into both oem and Taiwan the same.
Once you understand what it is you're looking at, it becomes pretty easy.
Having a little bit of trouble with my column switch, the little switch assembly is really fussy. To help troubleshoot I decided to actually figure out how that little mystery switch works, and what is what.
Seeing as it's a hit and miss on the web, I created a diagram for us showing how the contact pins and springs relate, and to which wires they connect in the curved harness plugs.
At least with this you could quickly find, power and troubleshoot the feeds out to the bulbs from the dash plug, and test the switch. Note: on the body side of the harness, the signal indicators in the cluster are connected to the L/R front signal outputs. On Taiwan, the left front signal could be light blue.
So, in a nutshell,
When applying the brakes, contact is made at the brake switch, sending current through the Black/White wire to pin A. Both rear brake lamp pins E/F are in constant contact with A through their respective pins, so applying brake feeds both simultaneously.
Applying left signal moves the E pin spring off the A feed pin(brake switch) pin, and into contact with the B feed spring. Then both springs contact the front signal lamp output pin C. Now front and back left signals are fed off the flasher unit.
The same happens when selecting the right signal. Signal applied when braking, the one signal side selected disconnects from the brake switch and is fed from the flasher. The other brake lamp stays fed from the brake switch.
Now I can get to work on mine. Anything to add, please do. cheers.
Same switch in my 65 Acadian. Years ago when I took it apart I just stared at it for a while and marvelled at the creativity!
I was able to get my original switch to work well again just by removing each of the pieces that were removable and scuffing them up real well. They had built up crud that insulated the contacts over their 50 year life.
Thats exactly what I did Carl, used Deoxit and a toothbrush. And a light pass on the contacts with scotchbright.
Turned out I needed to use the brake light spring and lever cam from the newer switch, and some creative bending and shaping to get it right. But it works great now.
I had never thought of trying to repair one until I got my repro and it was a cheap looking (and cheap feeling) piece of garbage. I know for one of my cars I also bought an NOS piece, which was excellent as well. No more repro signal switches for me though...
The repops just don't seem to have that "click". Good thing is, you can somewhat mix and match the parts between the two. From experience, each switch box fits into both oem and Taiwan the same.
Once you understand what it is you're looking at, it becomes pretty easy.