I tried bleeding front and rear brakes light still on
I tapped it (the block) and the light on the dash went out for a few days
came back on and has stayed on for a few weeks
Can new distribution blocks be purchased?
There are no leaks ,brakes work fine.
It looks like a not fun job to switch it out
Any help or insight is appreciated
I also realize the parking brake can light the light but thats not the source
Thanks
-- Edited by SGS Welding on Friday 3rd of September 2021 05:56:53 PM
oshawacliff said
Sep 1, 2021
Drum or disc brakes? May make a difference for parts.
Try flushing out all of the old brake fluid for a clean start.
Cliff
-- Edited by oshawacliff on Thursday 2nd of September 2021 12:24:50 AM
seventy2plus2 said
Sep 2, 2021
For my 70, the distribution blocks are the same whether it's 4 wheel drum or disc/drum. Also, the distribution block is different 69 to 70 (fitting for the line to the rear is different), so if you're replacing it you may need to determine whether it's specific to 1967. Somehow I've ended up with 2 NOS ones for my 1970.
As a last resort, do a full brake bleed. It's possible the rear system has some air present, causing enough of a pressure differential to trip the spool, but not enough that you'd feel it in the braking.
I might be in the minority here Greg, but if you have good brakes, no leaks and you know you car well enough to recognize a braking issue, disconnect the lead from the block. If you'd never had the lines off the block, you could be in for an adventure getting them off and onto a replacement. Even with the possible transfer of fluid between the system seals tripping the switch, I can't see it ever being the source of any type of future brake failure.
SGS Welding said
Sep 2, 2021
Yes pulling the wire seems like the fix for now
changing the block looks like a nightmare
this all happened after a normal reverse brake application
im wondering if there is dirt or a broken spring inside the block?
seems Wierd it wont come unstuck?
cdnpont said
Sep 2, 2021
Here's a image of a similar block to see the function of a failed front system. Like you said, maybe one of the two springs has given up the ghost.
You could attempt to remove the switch and to determine which way the spool has shifted. But it could just invite trouble.
Is there a way to check the switch ? Perhaps it is no good.
seventy2plus2 said
Sep 2, 2021
65Camino wrote:
Is there a way to check the switch ? Perhaps it is no good.
I'm guessing if the electrical terminal is providing a ground, the switch (brake distribution switch) is no good.
JC2+2 said
Sep 3, 2021
If your light is on and you hit the pedal as hard as you can with your heel and it goes out, then youve got air in the system or your master is bypassing fluid. In all the years Ive been pulling wrenches Ive yet to replace one of those blocks.
JC2+2 said
Sep 3, 2021
Oh. And also when trying to bleed you need to center that block (light out) before finishing bleeding. Or the one system is blocked off and cant bleed. If you have access to a vacuum bleeder you may have better luck.
Prefectca said
Sep 3, 2021
JC2+2 wrote:
If your light is on and you hit the pedal as hard as you can with your heel and it goes out, then youve got air in the system or your master is bypassing fluid. In all the years Ive been pulling wrenches Ive yet to replace one of those blocks.
I agree that the block is probably ok. In almost 50 years of pulling wrenches I have only changed two of those blocks. One was made of steel or cast iron and was leaking due to rust, I am in Ontario, the other was a proportioning valve type leaking out of the proportion valve section because of oil in the brake system. Some can be hard to centre after bleeding the brakes and I agree that there may be a bit of air or a master cylinder starting to bypass.
Paul
SGS Welding said
Sep 3, 2021
FIXED IT!
If you look at Marks diagram the part called switch terminal is the head of a screw (philips or star)
The switch terminal was backed out a hair and touching the shaft of the perfectly centred pistons
I gave the screw head half a turn and reinstalled the switch and dash light gone!
Thanks for everyones input it really did help me to search a little more before replacing parts!
65Camino said
Sep 3, 2021
Great news !
cdnpont said
Sep 4, 2021
Excellent. Glad you didn't have to undo those old lines!
My light is on on my dash
I tried bleeding front and rear brakes light still on
I tapped it (the block) and the light on the dash went out for a few days
came back on and has stayed on for a few weeks
Can new distribution blocks be purchased?
There are no leaks ,brakes work fine.
It looks like a not fun job to switch it out
Any help or insight is appreciated
I also realize the parking brake can light the light but thats not the source
Thanks
-- Edited by SGS Welding on Friday 3rd of September 2021 05:56:53 PM
Drum or disc brakes? May make a difference for parts.
Try flushing out all of the old brake fluid for a clean start.
Cliff
-- Edited by oshawacliff on Thursday 2nd of September 2021 12:24:50 AM
Drum Drum
I found this?
Does it look right?
As a last resort, do a full brake bleed. It's possible the rear system has some air present, causing enough of a pressure differential to trip the spool, but not enough that you'd feel it in the braking.
I might be in the minority here Greg, but if you have good brakes, no leaks and you know you car well enough to recognize a braking issue, disconnect the lead from the block. If you'd never had the lines off the block, you could be in for an adventure getting them off and onto a replacement. Even with the possible transfer of fluid between the system seals tripping the switch, I can't see it ever being the source of any type of future brake failure.
Yes pulling the wire seems like the fix for now
changing the block looks like a nightmare
this all happened after a normal reverse brake application
im wondering if there is dirt or a broken spring inside the block?
seems Wierd it wont come unstuck?
Here's a image of a similar block to see the function of a failed front system. Like you said, maybe one of the two springs has given up the ghost.
You could attempt to remove the switch and to determine which way the spool has shifted. But it could just invite trouble.
I'm guessing if the electrical terminal is providing a ground, the switch (brake distribution switch) is no good.
I agree that the block is probably ok. In almost 50 years of pulling wrenches I have only changed two of those blocks. One was made of steel or cast iron and was leaking due to rust, I am in Ontario, the other was a proportioning valve type leaking out of the proportion valve section because of oil in the brake system. Some can be hard to centre after bleeding the brakes and I agree that there may be a bit of air or a master cylinder starting to bypass.
Paul
FIXED IT!
If you look at Marks diagram the part called switch terminal is the head of a screw (philips or star)
The switch terminal was backed out a hair and touching the shaft of the perfectly centred pistons
I gave the screw head half a turn and reinstalled the switch and dash light gone!
Thanks for everyones input it really did help me to search a little more before replacing parts!
Excellent. Glad you didn't have to undo those old lines!
Me and you both Mark! LOL!!