How do the cold and hot light 2 post sensors work? From what I can find out, it is 2 sensors combined in 1. What Im wondering is, I assume the hot side will work alone if I only connect the wire from the sensor hot side post.
But can I use the wire for the cold side light to be my GEN light for my alternator which requires a light to act as an exciter? Just connect it to the alternator exciter wire? I have a mid 70s alternator with a hot, and 2 wire plug connector, I currently have a light bulb hang loose jury rigged to act as an exciter. The bulb lights when I turn the key on and goes out when the car starts, as it should.
I have a Painless wiring harness, installed before I got the car. One wire for temperature sensor idiot light and 1 wire for alternator exciter. I also have a single mechanical gauge that provides oil pressure and temperature but nice to have the idiot light backup, if possible.
The 63 has no provision for a red GEN light.
-- Edited by DonSSDD on Tuesday 22nd of August 2023 08:53:01 AM
67Poncho said
Aug 22, 2023
You don't need terminal 1. It will self energize with a little RPM. Attach terminal 2 to the Batt stud and go.
DonSSDD said
Aug 22, 2023
Vincent, what about if I want an idiot light?
Thanks for the advice.
Don
67Poncho said
Aug 22, 2023
You can use the cold bulb. The bulb is hot and uses the sensor as a ground when cold. When there is no grd, the bulb will turn off. Same as the gen bulb. You could always remove the cluster, remove the "cold" stencil and replace it with a "gen" stencil? I did similar when I added EFI to my old cars. I built a spot in the cluster. This is my '67 Rag. As you see, I removed the ammeter and installed a tach. I didn't add a bulb as a reminder for some reason. But that was 1995.. haha
-- Edited by 67Poncho on Tuesday 22nd of August 2023 12:40:05 PM
Thanks I was thinking just that solution, I think one from a 62 Chev would work in place of the Cold light. I like the tach, looks factory from here.
DonSSDD said
Aug 22, 2023
My 62 Chev had no clock so I added a Smiths dual gauge in the center spot, which was a blank. I drilled out the center of the blank and used it as a shim, looked factory.
Heres one in an Impala, this fellow kept the clock and removed the temperature gauge. Hes an Aussie and I sent him a blank to shim his, he sent me an Aussie ball hat. The 63 has no round spot for a gauge install so its hanging off the dash. I could drill the dash by the clock but havent done that yet.
The wiring is Painless but I call it Painful because you have to figure out what old wiring was kept and how it was connected to the new. I have almost no old wiring through the firewall, just the new stuff. So far Ive figured out there is no power wire to the oil light or the hot cold.
-- Edited by DonSSDD on Tuesday 22nd of August 2023 01:42:19 PM
Ok, question on Hot light, I got it to work when I turn the key to on, but it doesnt turn off when the car starts. I ran keyed power to the Hot light and connected the hot post on the sender to the other wire on the light.
Why wont it turn off when the car starts?
Member here, John Dekker, mailed me a free RED GEN gauge light plastic and it fit real well, thanks again John.
The GEN and OIL pressure lights work as they should, on with key, off when the engine starts. Just need to sort out the HOT light and then put the dash back together.
-- Edited by DonSSDD on Tuesday 12th of September 2023 09:41:51 AM
DonSSDD said
Sep 12, 2023
Any way to test the sensor?
DonSSDD said
Sep 14, 2023
Put it back together, figured if there was a problem with the hot light, it had to be the sensor. Once I got it all together, it worked, knock on wood.
How do the cold and hot light 2 post sensors work? From what I can find out, it is 2 sensors combined in 1. What Im wondering is, I assume the hot side will work alone if I only connect the wire from the sensor hot side post.
But can I use the wire for the cold side light to be my GEN light for my alternator which requires a light to act as an exciter? Just connect it to the alternator exciter wire? I have a mid 70s alternator with a hot, and 2 wire plug connector, I currently have a light bulb hang loose jury rigged to act as an exciter. The bulb lights when I turn the key on and goes out when the car starts, as it should.
I have a Painless wiring harness, installed before I got the car. One wire for temperature sensor idiot light and 1 wire for alternator exciter. I also have a single mechanical gauge that provides oil pressure and temperature but nice to have the idiot light backup, if possible.
The 63 has no provision for a red GEN light.
-- Edited by DonSSDD on Tuesday 22nd of August 2023 08:53:01 AM
You don't need terminal 1. It will self energize with a little RPM. Attach terminal 2 to the Batt stud and go.
Thanks for the advice.
Don
You can use the cold bulb. The bulb is hot and uses the sensor as a ground when cold. When there is no grd, the bulb will turn off. Same as the gen bulb. You could always remove the cluster, remove the "cold" stencil and replace it with a "gen" stencil? I did similar when I added EFI to my old cars. I built a spot in the cluster. This is my '67 Rag. As you see, I removed the ammeter and installed a tach. I didn't add a bulb as a reminder for some reason. But that was 1995.. haha
-- Edited by 67Poncho on Tuesday 22nd of August 2023 12:40:05 PM
My 62 Chev had no clock so I added a Smiths dual gauge in the center spot, which was a blank. I drilled out the center of the blank and used it as a shim, looked factory.
Heres one in an Impala, this fellow kept the clock and removed the temperature gauge. Hes an Aussie and I sent him a blank to shim his, he sent me an Aussie ball hat. The 63 has no round spot for a gauge install so its hanging off the dash. I could drill the dash by the clock but havent done that yet.
The wiring is Painless but I call it Painful because you have to figure out what old wiring was kept and how it was connected to the new. I have almost no old wiring through the firewall, just the new stuff. So far Ive figured out there is no power wire to the oil light or the hot cold.
-- Edited by DonSSDD on Tuesday 22nd of August 2023 01:42:19 PM
FYI, I took a spare 63 dash apart, should be easy to change out cold green for red GEN once I find one.
Ok, question on Hot light, I got it to work when I turn the key to on, but it doesnt turn off when the car starts. I ran keyed power to the Hot light and connected the hot post on the sender to the other wire on the light.
Why wont it turn off when the car starts?
Member here, John Dekker, mailed me a free RED GEN gauge light plastic and it fit real well, thanks again John.
The GEN and OIL pressure lights work as they should, on with key, off when the engine starts. Just need to sort out the HOT light and then put the dash back together.
-- Edited by DonSSDD on Tuesday 12th of September 2023 09:41:51 AM
Put it back together, figured if there was a problem with the hot light, it had to be the sensor. Once I got it all together, it worked, knock on wood.
Good! Just seeing this now. Glad it all worked.