I was chatting with another member on how he was installing his springs without any weight on the front. im gonna have to end up doing mine as well and was nervous on all the other methods. But I found this on YouTube. It seems like an easier way of doing it? Will this work and has anybody tried it? your thoughts
I used a 1/2 inch ready rod the first time I put them in, ready rod started to bend, not heavy enough. I did not do exactly as this Guy did. used a plate inside the spring.
Was a little sketchy. Next time I used a inside spring compressor and went down thru shock hole, worked much better, but can be a bit of pain trying to get arms
out of the inside of spring, not impossible but a little difficult. No engine in car both time, no front clip either so that made it a little easier. His method looks to be pretty good, but seems very time consuming with that long of threaded rod and not being able to use impact on it. Possibly modify with fixed nut on top and go thru a nut on bottom? Would work the same but long rod coming out bottom so would need lots of room underneath.
4SPEED427 said
May 2nd
Either the welded nut on top or a socket welded to a long piece of pipe and then an extension welded to the top so you can use an impact. That's all I could think of as I kept fast forwarding!
But it looks like it should work fine Mike.
seventy2plus2 said
May 3rd
He's using 5/8" rod, and says it's a 1-1/6" wrench which sounded kind of big. I looked at the specs, it's should be 15/16" wrench to fit on a 5/8" nut. And yes, go buy a ratcheting wrench (GearWrench).
For my 1970 B-body's, I'm not sure if a 5/8" rod will fit through the top shock hole.
-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Friday 3rd of May 2024 12:32:29 AM
MikeR667 said
May 3rd
Thanks guys. Think I will give this method a try along with the suggestions above when the time comes to do them.
cdnpont said
May 3rd
A large rod would be great, and I would have used something similar. Unfortunately the B body's shock hole in the frame is rather small. In the 69 It's an S1 type, so 3/8"/10mm rod, which probably means a 7/16" hole.
Edit;
Now I remember, at least on my 67 the upper shock mount had a welded in place bushing washer, which had a small diameter hole. But not all years had it. You could be lucky and not have this washer and in that case, the hole is larger.
-- Edited by cdnpont on Friday 3rd of May 2024 10:04:52 AM
ABC123 said
May 3rd
The hole measures 5/8"
However, I found it imposible to put the control arms from the bottom as it looks like the steel gets pinched when bolted up.
I had to slide then in from the side and above into the slots and pry them down into position.
A dry fit is strongly suggested before you do all that cranking on that rod
What years have the welded on front shock bushing base? I know 67 has it. At least on the Budd frame.
Nothing on the 69. Perfect, I'm now looking for a 5/8 rod.
ABC123 said
May 3rd
You are welcome to come over and practice on the spare frame Mark
cdnpont said
May 3rd
You know, if I was to use a rod, I think I'd consider buying a cheap amazon Torrington bearing kit, and thick fender washers for the turning nut (or nuts) to bear on.
I've compressed with plates and a threaded rod before, and yes, used the stack of greased washers method, It worked, but I'm still convinced most of all the friction felt is in that interface.
This might really make a difference with some never seize on the threads and bearing grease on the rollers. I never have, but I don't think you could hammer away with an impact on these.
Hey guys,
I was chatting with another member on how he was installing his springs without any weight on the front. im gonna have to end up doing mine as well and was nervous on all the other methods. But I found this on YouTube. It seems like an easier way of doing it? Will this work and has anybody tried it? your thoughts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0COGAbOdi0
Mike
Was a little sketchy. Next time I used a inside spring compressor and went down thru shock hole, worked much better, but can be a bit of pain trying to get arms
out of the inside of spring, not impossible but a little difficult. No engine in car both time, no front clip either so that made it a little easier. His method looks to be pretty good, but seems very time consuming with that long of threaded rod and not being able to use impact on it. Possibly modify with fixed nut on top and go thru a nut on bottom? Would work the same but long rod coming out bottom so would need lots of room underneath.
Either the welded nut on top or a socket welded to a long piece of pipe and then an extension welded to the top so you can use an impact. That's all I could think of as I kept fast forwarding!
But it looks like it should work fine Mike.
He's using 5/8" rod, and says it's a 1-1/6" wrench which sounded kind of big. I looked at the specs, it's should be 15/16" wrench to fit on a 5/8" nut. And yes, go buy a ratcheting wrench (GearWrench).
For my 1970 B-body's, I'm not sure if a 5/8" rod will fit through the top shock hole.
-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Friday 3rd of May 2024 12:32:29 AM
A large rod would be great, and I would have used something similar. Unfortunately the B body's shock hole in the frame is rather small. In the 69 It's an S1 type, so 3/8"/10mm rod, which probably means a 7/16" hole.
Edit;
Now I remember, at least on my 67 the upper shock mount had a welded in place bushing washer, which had a small diameter hole. But not all years had it. You could be lucky and not have this washer and in that case, the hole is larger.
-- Edited by cdnpont on Friday 3rd of May 2024 10:04:52 AM
The hole measures 5/8"
However, I found it imposible to put the control arms from the bottom as it looks like the steel gets pinched when bolted up.
I had to slide then in from the side and above into the slots and pry them down into position.
A dry fit is strongly suggested before you do all that cranking on that rod
5/8" rod would be big enough.
What years have the welded on front shock bushing base? I know 67 has it. At least on the Budd frame.
Nothing on the 69. Perfect, I'm now looking for a 5/8 rod.
You are welcome to come over and practice on the spare frame Mark
You know, if I was to use a rod, I think I'd consider buying a cheap amazon Torrington bearing kit, and thick fender washers for the turning nut (or nuts) to bear on.
I've compressed with plates and a threaded rod before, and yes, used the stack of greased washers method, It worked, but I'm still convinced most of all the friction felt is in that interface.
This might really make a difference with some never seize on the threads and bearing grease on the rollers. I never have, but I don't think you could hammer away with an impact on these.
1/2" bore, but 5/8" is available.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07VXSLNY5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A30WUG2ZDGM0XM&th=1
I might! Well, at least for an overdue visit.