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Post Info TOPIC: power steering too sensitive


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power steering too sensitive


I"m having a real problem with my 1967 Beaumont in regards to the power steering, especially on the highway during rain, ruts in the pavement from heavy trucks. I can't keep the car on the road. Started to hydro plane. Scared the hell out of me. The steering is not loose, just really sensitive. Any ideas out there??

This is my first time posting. Don't know what I'm doing. Guess I should have read the how-to's first!! eh!!

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Poncho Master!

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Sounds like a scary experience! I've been driving mine with the original setup and am quite used to it... but compared to newer car steering it has less road response and that dead spot in the center (which is probably what you experienced).... if everything else checks out o.k. in your front end then you may want to do a swap to a Grand Cherokee steering box, it will stiffen up the center of the road and give you more road feel overall, its a bolt in swap...

you'll need:
- 93-98 GRand Cherokee Steering box (it has 12.7:1 ratio and a larger torsion bar)
- new rag joint (Advanced auto #200 steering coupler or Lares #200, also had some oem GM applications like newer trucks and camaro if you look at a wrecker)
- hose adapters (from Lee Manufacturing in CA, or you can covert to o-ring or just cut off the metric end and flare on your standard fitting)

ak



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Poncho Master!

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Besides confirmation of all front end components condition and their mounting points have you had the alignment specs absolutely confirmed by a professional shop w/ accurate equipment including not only the obvious toe and camber settings but caster too and w/ front alignment specs set w/ compensation to the rear axle?.

If none of these seem the problem, on a hoist knock the outer t-rods off so you can rotate each side freely making sure you don't have a sticky ball joint..
Listen for strange noises too as it may only bind when loaded with the vehicle's weight..

Also while the tie rods are off check that the steering column and box operates freely through it's full range and someone hasn't tightened the box adjuster too far..

Rag joint should be checked while on the ground with everything still attached..

Good luck!.
smile.gif

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A Poncho Legend!

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Ghost Post wrote:

Besides confirmation of all front end components condition and their mounting points have you had the alignment specs absolutely confirmed by a professional shop w/ accurate equipment including not only the obvious toe and camber settings but caster too and w/ front alignment specs set w/ compensation to the rear axle?.

If none of these seem the problem, on a hoist knock the outer t-rods off so you can rotate each side freely making sure you don't have a sticky ball joint..
Listen for strange noises too as it may only bind when loaded with the vehicle's weight..

Also while the tie rods are off check that the steering column and box operates freely through it's full range and someone hasn't tightened the box adjuster too far..

Rag joint should be checked while on the ground with everything still attached..

Good luck!.
smile.gif



         My 66 is the same!   I added p.s. and its too sensitive...  With the "auto in it, I could steer with both hands, when "racing" up to Stunt speed..  Now with the four speed, its "all over the road"..  I think a newer variable ratio box might be the trick, or a cut belt  lol   Carl   p.s. The front is checked and aligned and rag joint new

  



-- Edited by 427carl on Thursday 3rd of September 2009 11:23:16 AM

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Poncho Master!

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Some cars are set up NOT for the grooved highways we see> My 87 Z28 is the same way on those grooves & you have to hang on with both hands & funny thing the 66 Camino does the same thing. I am sure the wide face tires are a big part of the problem. Probably can be helped but not fixed with the right setup .. caster camber toe in etc...., as you are dealing with too many road angles at one go and theres no basis to work from ???

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Poncho Master!

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I HAVE HEARD THAT THE ALIGNMENT SPECS. NEED TO BE ALTERED ON OLDER CARS DUE TO THE FACT THAT MOST RUN THESE DAYS ON RADIAL TIRES AS OPPOSED TO BIAS PLY THAT THEY WERE ORIGINALY SET UP FOR. DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT?

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   MIKE



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ak 67sd wrote:




Sounds like a scary experience! I've been driving mine with the original setup and am quite used to it... but compared to newer car steering it has less road response and that dead spot in the center (which is probably what you experienced).... if everything else checks out o.k. in your front end then you may want to do a swap to a Grand Cherokee steering box, it will stiffen up the center of the road and give you more road feel overall, its a bolt in swap...

you'll need:
- 93-98 GRand Cherokee Steering box (it has 12.7:1 ratio and a larger torsion bar)
- new rag joint (Advanced auto #200 steering coupler or Lares #200, also had some oem GM applications like newer trucks and camaro if you look at a wrecker)
- hose adapters (from Lee Manufacturing in CA, or you can covert to o-ring or just cut off the metric end and flare on your standard fitting)

ak




Nice tip Andrew. Have you performed this swap, or driven a car with this swap? I have a Monte Carlo SS box that I'm going to swap on one of my Beaumonts. ( some day!)


 



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Barry -

2 x 68 Beaumonts, 1post, 1 hardtop (projects)

2x 65 Chevelle 300 deluxe (projects)

69 SS396 300 deluxe post

 

 

 

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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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Welcome bill,

Not familiar with the Beaumonts, but the 65-70 B Bodies theses days are running as much positive caster as the strut rod will allow. I think the factory spec was actually negative, when 1 1/2 positive works so much better with modern radial tires on these cars.

So if the front end on your car is good and solid, I'd think simply some real positive caster probably could dramatically improve your "on center " feel and prevent the wandering you get.

Cheers, Mark.

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A Poncho Legend!

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Hmm no  thats why my tires squeal, when turning into my driveway cry

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Poncho Master!

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Hi Barry, i havent done that swap, but from the research i've done its quite popular as an upgrade for our cars and the guys that have done it notice an improvement and wont go back! that steering box is a bolt in with no mods. And apparently, more so than a tighter ratio is the larger torsion bar which gives a more solid feel in a straight line, it takes a bit more effort turning the wheel to get the power assist to kick in...

my car was a handful to drive on the street running 12" slicks, they'd catch all the grooves and even the tar cracks and toss the back end around... like a bowl of jello!

I dont drive my car often enough to really think about some simple upgrades... but if i did this would be my list...
1. front discs (i still roll on 4 drums!)
2. cherokee steering box
3. second gen. camaro/firebird front sway bar (thicker than our stock ones)
4. some new shocks... i'm still on 40 year old ones!
5. 200r4 tranny



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Numbers don't match! Especially HP and ET.  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/496943 



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Bill

Here is a good article in Car Craft that I found, I'm going to do it over the winter to my 69 Beaumont !

Kevin

 http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0901_gm_steering_box_upgrade/photo_15.html

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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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I've had similar issues with B bodies. Two solutions have worked - castor adjustments as mentioned earlier; and replacement of original steering box with F-41 box from mid 70s A bodies, and from 80s full size cars.

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