The factory welded a bracket assembly to the frame near the cowl to support the column shift linkage:
I want to remove this bracket, because (a) it is not needed since I am using a floor shift and (b) to clean up unnecessary clutter in the engine compartment (which will be much more croweded with the big block V8 than it was with the old straight 6, e.g., might need more clearance for headers). I do not want to leave it there so some theoretical future owner can convert the car back to column shift, that is not an issue, it is now a floor shift car, period.
The question is, what is the best way to remove the bracket? I am most concerned with the rod sticking out of the bracket, but also the portion of the bracket that sticks up above the frame. Ideally the whole bracket would be removed but that is not essential.
Rule out using a torch. I don't have one and would not want to risk getting things too hot near the floor, steering, etc.
My first thought was to use my trusty sawzall to cut off the rod. So that is option #1.
Then, once the old motor was removed and I had plenty of room to work in the engine compartment, I thought maybe drill out the 3 penetrating welds and remove the whole bracket. Not sure how big the holes will have to be, at least 3/8" and maybe 1/2" to cut through all the weld. (Not enough room to chisel off the bracket since it is slightly recessed into the frame.) So that is option #2.
But rather than risk weakening the frame with holes, maybe I should use my trusty sawzall and cut off the bracket level with the top of the frame, leaving the welded-on part. So that is option #3.
What do you think would be the best option?
Thanks, Dave
UPDATE - skip to the end to find the result, eh?
Dave
-- Edited by davelacourse on Wednesday 14th of July 2010 04:36:52 PM
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
drill out the welds dave is the cleanest way. stop short of going into the frame, work up to a large 1/2" bit, then a couple good whacks with a hammer should free it up.
Before I read all your suggestions, I had my mind made up and I would be cutting it off as per #3 suggestion. The other methods require more time and in the end, it doesn't matter if the welded piece is left on the frame. No one will see it there.
Mike Holmes has a saying, "Glue it and screw it"! Darryl has a saying, "Drill it and fill it"!
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
My immediate thought was a large drill bit and as stated, stop when you get to the frame. I've done other pieces similar to that using that technique and after a couple of shots with the hammer and chisel, a quick grind will make it look like it was never there.
Easy for me to say, 2000 miles away, eh???!!!
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
Drill out the spot welds, make a nice clean job....you know its there even if 95% of the others don't notice. Plus you will never snag your sleeve or skin on it trying to pick up that bolt that's fallen and wedged itself between the header tubes.....Eh?
-- Edited by Islander on Monday 5th of July 2010 11:17:07 PM
That plus a couple of mighty whacks with my BFH and off it came.
A little grinding on the remaining weld and it looks OK (still have to finish prep and paint the frame).
To my surprise, I did not drill into the frame, and only a little bit through the bracket at the very point of the drill - I guess it was just enough to take the strength out of the welds. Used a 3/8" drill bit, slightly smaller than the holes in the bracket.
Anybody need a column-shift bracket?
Dave
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1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
1956 Pontiac Pathfinder 2dr sedan, 496 - dyno'd 545 hp, stick shift, 4.11 posi - Hot Rod
