As everyone probably knows, the 60's cars had the feature of removing the key in ACC and RUN positions. Since I had to change the switch, it no longer does this. So the question is, does anyone know how this worked? ... or what holds the key in?
I'VE HAD CARS THAT YOU COULD REMOVE THE KEY LIKE THAT AND SOME YOU COULDN'T. I'M NOT SURE IF IT IS ACTUALLY A FEATURE OR JUST THE RESULT OF WORN PARTS IN THE IGN. SWITCH. ANYBODY KNOW FOR SURE?
I'm certain this was a feature of the day, but could have been an option too To date I've only owned 5 x 65's and 1 66 wagon over the years and they all had it, including the current one, prior to changing lock and switch.
I'VE HAD CARS THAT YOU COULD REMOVE THE KEY LIKE THAT AND SOME YOU COULDN'T. I'M NOT SURE IF IT IS ACTUALLY A FEATURE OR JUST THE RESULT OF WORN PARTS IN THE IGN. SWITCH. ANYBODY KNOW FOR SURE?
You hit the nail on the head, in your second part of your answer.... Was following this thread just waiting if someone would know why the key is removable........ NO, it wasn't a feature, although we all love it when we can pull the key out and run errands while the car stays running! Or as Janton suggested!!!! (lol) Nor is it a good idea to leave it running unless you lock your doors as a security! But I was sure Carl would have known the answer....
The key is not meant to come out, with reasonable force obviously, and this is due to the way the key is cut when new... The cylinder is made up of tumblers, springs, retainer and a lock bar.... the tumblers are numbered 1-4, up to '66 and 1-5 up to '94... we will do the up to '66 key here.
First off, I just noticed that tumblers 2 and 3 have wear on them at the key and bar contact points....... Notice it as compared to #1 and 4 tumblers...
In the pic above, when you insert the key, the red paint of the key and tumblers contact each other. The key has 4 cuts down, 6 across numbering 1-4... all new keys are 1's while the deepest cut on the key is a 4... The purpose of the "bar" cuts is to allow the bar to lay flat against the cylinder allowing the key with cylinder to turn as a unit within the switch. There is a notch machined within the switch to match the bar on the cylinder... With the key in the off position, the notch and bar fit together, much like tongue and groove in wood products!
Also notice, the higher the number tumbler, the lower the bar cut becomes... This is how the cuts of the key and the number of the tumbler fit together to allow the bar cuts to align and cause the bar to sit flush in the cylinder, allowing the key and cylinder to turn as a unit...
If the key is not coded properly to the ajoining tumbler, the "V" of the bar will not sit in the "bar" cut causing the bar not to recess thus not allowing the cylinder to be turned. It still thinks it is in the off position, tongue and groove! But as the key, tumblers and "bar" surfaces wear, sometimes it is hard to get the cylinder to turn, a different key of similar cut is possible to use and finally, the key can be removed while the car is running!
As all parts wear, the key can be removed.... The "stops or gates" are worn off, the key wears down and with all 3 contact points near gone, key comes out! The top key is a newer key so all points are sharp and the stops/gates are present. The lower key shows a lot of wear, rounded points and no stops/gates. This key will pull out easily as the tumblers within the cylinder will show the same amount of wear....
So remember, when you get your key duplicated at your local hardware store or Canadian Tire, unless new, they are cutting you a WORN key.... Go to a dealer, or people like myself, with your key code and blank if you have, and get a properly cut key.
The newer key above was cut by myself for my '53... I had to remove a door lock, got the 4 digit key code, went to the book and cut it!
Any questions, shoot away..........
-- Edited by 67Poncho on Friday 5th of October 2012 09:25:35 AM
this is for 62-64 nova NOVA NOTE: 1. REMOVE BATTERY CABLE 2. STRAIGHTEN OUT ONE END OF A PAPER CLIP 3. TURN KEY TO THE LEFT, ACCESSORY POSITION 4. INSERT PAPER CLIP END INTO SMALL HOLE BY KEY 5. PRESS IN ON PAPER CLIP, YOU SHOULD FEEL A SPRING LOADED PIN INSIDE 6. WHILE PRESSING ON THE SPRING TURN KEY AND LOCK CYLINDER TO THE LEFT AND GENTLY PULL 7. CYLINDER SHOULD NOW COME OUT 8. TO RE-INSTALL PUT KEY INTO NEW LOCK CYLINDER, INSERT INTO SWITCH AND TURN RIGHT 9. RECONNECT BATTERY CABLE AND CHECK OPERATION
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Surrey BC
1963 Acadian Beaumont Sport Deluxe http://www.63acadian.com/
i had one cut from the number and still can remove key while car is running..
.... and, you had the tumblers replaced in the cylinder at the same time, correct? (I sincerely doubt it as it is seldom done) Not many people do it anymore. Here is a pic of and old and new tumbler... Imagine the key being worn the same as the tumbler... Add the 3 together!!!! That adds up to alot of wear.... The colour and design has changed but you can see what I mean!
As quoted. "The "stops or gates" are worn off, the key wears down and with all 3 contact points near gone, key comes out!" In other words, 3 contact points, key, tumbler and bar cuts....
It is like taking a shower and putting your old cloths back on... fresh shower, fresh cloths.... Fresh key, fresh tumblers....... They work hand in hand... Suggest getting the tumblers changed...
-- Edited by 67Poncho on Friday 5th of October 2012 09:11:39 AM
Absolutely.... When you know how, they are very easy to do... I have the complete kit to do up till they changed the keys completely... I remember a gentleman left the keys on his seat and locked the doors in the parking lot of the dealer... Took a key and cutter, peeked through the door glass and cut a key...
When I first got my Rag, I didn't have keys... I took the cylinder apart, lined up the tumblers that I had to match the key and either removed material on the key or added solder to raise a spot and filed it down to match... Then I took the key to then Western Tire and got it duplicated! I was 16-17 years old then....
-- Edited by 67Poncho on Friday 5th of October 2012 09:30:09 AM
this is for 62-64 nova NOVA NOTE: 1. REMOVE BATTERY CABLE 2. STRAIGHTEN OUT ONE END OF A PAPER CLIP 3. TURN KEY TO THE LEFT, ACCESSORY POSITION 4. INSERT PAPER CLIP END INTO SMALL HOLE BY KEY 5. PRESS IN ON PAPER CLIP, YOU SHOULD FEEL A SPRING LOADED PIN INSIDE 6. WHILE PRESSING ON THE SPRING TURN KEY AND LOCK CYLINDER TO THE LEFT AND GENTLY PULL 7. CYLINDER SHOULD NOW COME OUT 8. TO RE-INSTALL PUT KEY INTO NEW LOCK CYLINDER, INSERT INTO SWITCH AND TURN RIGHT 9. RECONNECT BATTERY CABLE AND CHECK OPERATION
Thanks, but not removing the lock cylinder, just the key when in RUN or ACC position, leaving the lock intact.
did not read correctly. possible you got an after market SW ?? factory SW all worked this way, dont know the thinking behind it maybe so you could live your car running and go into the bar !!
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Surrey BC
1963 Acadian Beaumont Sport Deluxe http://www.63acadian.com/
The switch is probably aft market, and I know the keys / tumblers are for sure since I bought a complete set from Ames, includes Ign, doors, console, G box and trunk, all work together as original, except for pulling the key when on.
YEARS AGO I CHANGED THE IGN. SWITCH IN MY '66 BISCAYNE WITH ONE FROM A '66 IMPALA PARTS CAR I HAD. SAME THING HAPPENED. BEFORE THE CHANGE I COULD REMOVE THE KEY WHILE RUNNING, AFTER INSTALLING THE IMPALA UNIT I COULD NOT.
Wow, very interesting and informative, thanks. It sounds like all my cars just had worn out keys and the part about different keys working is definitely true. Back in high school I knew a guy with a GM key that would start any GM car .... Used to hear mine start while sitting in math class!
Steve, give Doug at Highwood Lock & Key a call (same Doug that puts on the High River shows). I'd say he's as good as they come, and he can help you out. Last year I took the 454 Laurentian to him, and he decoded the old worn keys, and cut me new ones.
The ignition cylinder in my 70 convertible had been changed, and used a '71 A code key. I got a new cylinder at Heads Lock and Key, and they keyed it to the proper '70 J code key. I didn't notice it at the time, but I can pull they key with the car running. I cost me dearly last summer when I had to leave my car at the Vancouver Park & Ride for a week. They parked the car, and I think it wasn't quite in the lock position, and they pulled the key killing the battery.
Wow, very interesting and informative, thanks. It sounds like all my cars just had worn out keys and the part about different keys working is definitely true. Back in high school I knew a guy with a GM key that would start any GM car .... Used to hear mine start while sitting in math class!
I know what you're talking about. I knew a guy too like that too... only I'd hear mine from social class doing burnouts on 90th Ave (south side of Beaverbrook). Ah how I miss those days sometimes.
Thanks... Although, it took nearly and hour and a half to put it all together... Pictures, drawing and poor typing skills....
Another thought I had when I woke up this morning on this topic, try and remove your key from your door lock while you have it turned full right or left... It uses the same cylinder, tumbler and bar setup...... I guarentee you will not be able to remove the key as easy! In comparison to the ignition, how many times are the door locks used? The PASSENGER door lock???