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Post Info TOPIC: old SUN TACH supertach II 802


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old SUN TACH supertach II 802


 

Hi, my old Sun Tach does not work.
i just dissembled and found out that this part was loose inside ..but where i have to fix it back??
Thx for any pic, help, info



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A Poncho Legend!

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Hi Checker, see if there is a schemetic diagram on the internet for your tach or maybe contact Sun and see if they can help.

That is an electrical component (transistor or capacitor or resistor ... I'm not an electronics expert) that was once conected into the tach's circuit board.



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'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



Poncho Master!

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Checker wrote:

 

Hi, my old Sun Tach does not work.
i just dissembled and found out that this part was loose inside ..but where i have to fix it back??
Thx for any pic, help, info


 Mate, I'll open mine up and have a look for you!



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cutting a roof off a four door is NOT a convertible.....

65 Parisienne convertible.one of 49 built for RHD export market,402BBC, T400, 2500 stally, posi rear, upgraded brakes with front discs, FUEL FAST efi custom built by me.



A Poncho Legend!

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sun.jpg



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Poncho Master!

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hi mate , mine is a tach2 so slightly different! but, As a sparky I would be looking at the underside of the printed circuit board for tell tale dry joint holes. You should be able to see 2 mounds of solder with holes in the centre. This will be where it has come from. this is a capacitor and does not look to be polarity conscious. You will know this to be the case as each leg would have a + or - marked on it. A Solder sucker, resin core solder and electronics size soldering iron would be handy., and a magnifying glass for later..... by the looks of the rub marks it possibly came from the R16 position? Clean the solder off so the holes are clear, lightly heat the legs and remove solder lumps so they go in the holes cleanly. Solder back in place! Not too much heat though!

once done add a dab of non corrosive (neutral cure) silastic to hold it in place and stop the wobbles! This can be done to secure other larger components which could suffer the same fate.Now take your magnifying glass under a bright light and check for other dry joins, especially on large components. You can tell by looking at the mound of solder. It should look clean and consisten. A dry joint will have a dark crack ring around the leg of the component where it comes up through the solder. Sometimes the track breaks away which can be found by a gentle wiggle. 

 

A good checkover and you'll be ready too twist that needle off the stop again! Hope this helps!



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cutting a roof off a four door is NOT a convertible.....

65 Parisienne convertible.one of 49 built for RHD export market,402BBC, T400, 2500 stally, posi rear, upgraded brakes with front discs, FUEL FAST efi custom built by me.



Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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Sorry I missed this post initially.  The loose piece is a capacitor, which used the abbreviation of "C" on schematic diagrams.  I see the printed circuit board of the tach has the components listed (R2 & R16 - Resistors, CR2 - Diode are visible in the photo).

Check for a 'C' something that is missing it's item.  Once found, solder the loose capacitor in the space.  Some capacitors are polarity dependent, but I don't think that one is.   (sorry, trying to remember my electronics theory from 30+ years ago) 



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