Well, got tired of listening to my rearend howl, even after rebuilding. So I thought I'd put a 8.8 posi with 3.73, got it for 120.00 on used vic with sway bar incl I know it's a chev but will also work for pontiac and other vehicles as well. Will post cost and how to , incase anyone else wants to do the same thing. To start with the width is 59 1/2 hubface to hubface, stock 57 is 60. Most Explorer rearend are posi with 3.73, 92-94 drum, 95-02 disc, may be other years also? So far all I have done is remove axels ( wich I will redrill to 4 3/4 bp ) remove swaybar perches and leaf perches. Picked up new perches 25.00. Will reuse swaybar perches , but they will have to be welded on top of diff, on the back of diff stock, then I will have rear swaybar to Progress so far.
Well, got tired of listening to my rearend howl, even after rebuilding.
So I thought I'd put a 8.8 posi with 3.73, got it for 120.00 on used vic with sway bar incl
I know it's a Chev but will also work for pontiac and other vehicles as well. Will post cost and how to , incase anyone else wants to do the same thing. To start with the width is 59 1/2 hubface to hubface, stock 57 is 60.
Most Explorer rearend are posi with 3.73, 92-94 drum, 95-02 disc, may be other years also? So far all I have done is remove axels ( wich I will redrill to 4 3/4 bp ) remove swaybar perches and leaf perches. Picked up new perches 25.00. Will reuse swaybar perches , but they will have to be welded on top of diff, on the back of diff stock, then I will have rear swaybar to Progress so far.
Never seen a Chevrolet Explorer rear end is it like a Ford ? Do you have to use red heater hoses with it ? just wondering
Chev- as in the make of my car Trying to convert it into a Jeep, they use any leftover manufacturers parts. No red heater hose though, but I will have to custom order red diff vent hose
Chev- as in the make of my car Trying to convert it into a Jeep, they use any leftover manufacturers parts. No red heater hose though, but I will have to custom order red diff vent hose
omg your car is a Chev are they made by Canadian Ponchos ??
A bit closer with the 8.8. New pinion, carrier, axel berrings and seals in. Mocked up a jig and leveled it to get my pinion angle the same as stock and pulled out my stock reareand. Picked up new drums, shoes, wheel cyl and brake hardware. Should be a new rearend by the time I'm done. All in parts and price of diff about 500.00. Not bad for a rebuilt posi with new everything
Well finally got the 8.8 in the car yesterday, went for a test drive with my bud with his 68 firebird that I painted about 6 yrs ago. No more howl or vibration
I think the ford perches were 1/2 further apart, I've heard of guys spreading the leafs a bit without having to change, but if I remember correctly I think the ford perches were spaced differently from backing plate on each side. Should be able to pick a good one up for 2-3 hun that might only need brakes. Seems to be lots around here,have also heard from more than 1 that the 8.8 axle is stronger than the 9". As for drive shaft, I used one out of a chev astro van (I think ). Nice aluminum one for 50 bucks from the wrecker. I'm running the W/C T-5 so my drive shaft length won't be the same as stock trans with an 8.8. Am running ford to chev u joint, will get you the #. Thing to watch with this swap is the drive shaft OD,because the pinion is offset 3 1/2 in which makes it a bit tight in the tunnel. Mine hasn't hit yet. Just let me know if you need any more info. It's a great upgrade to posi for not much cost.
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
I'm pretty sure that is the way to go.. I'll be using the tranny I got from Carl, 3 psd standard with electric O/D...so anything up to a 4.11 will be fine.
thanks for build tech !
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later...rog
AADD supporting member !!
I'm a collector...not a builder!!Located in sunny central Saskatchewan at the lakehead!
The u-joint was a precision 353 outside c clip. Might not be the same as what you need depending on what drive shaft you use. Is the 3spd O.D. longer than a stock 3spd or just a bigger tailshaft housing? You will also need new u bolts because axle tubes are bigger, 3" I think, also will need to drill out shock plates for larger u bolt dia. Put Cal track shock plates in the Canso so I put Canso shock plates in the Chevy, bigger, more room to drill and don't like to throw anything away.Thinking I might go this route in the Canso, but I will need 2 rear ends or 1 rear end and an axle. Needs to be narrowed 3". It is the way to go.