1] Assume I will need to move cross member and/ or swap out tail shaft for correct length?
2] Car has factory console and shifter. Will shifter attach to 700R4 with out fabrication? If so will the location line up with existing console opening?
The main thing about a 700 is the TV cable, its travel sweep is critical to transmission life. It is much more important than a regular kickdown cable and there are lever kits available to match it to your carb.
Crossmember needs to move back on frame. 2 holes might line up and need to drill 2 . Driveshaft needs to be shortened approx. 2 5/8 ". 68-72 Nova might fit. Yoke should be the same. Cooler lines need massaging/lengthening. No modulator line. Later 700 style have no speedo hole, but T-350 extension housing will fit. Metric bolts in convertor. Need something to control lockup. Verify your flexplate will accommodate the 700 convertor. Floor shifter should work but might not move all the way down to low, D will be off, detent kits are available.
Thanks Randy
-- Edited by GLHS60 on Wednesday 21st of May 2014 02:14:13 AM
Randy covered pretty much everything and he is right about the Importance of the TV cable, I just burnt up my 700r4. You need to have the lock up hooked up as well or you can burn up the trans. If you do not want to move the crossmember or drill different holes, you could look for a 200r4, they are pretty much a direct bolt in no driveshaft shortening etc.
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John
1972 Pontiac Lemans (daughter's car) 2005 Pontiac Grand Am 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
The main thing about a 700 is the TV cable, its travel sweep is critical to transmission life. It is much more important than a regular kickdown cable and there are lever kits available to match it to your carb.
Crossmember needs to move back on frame. 2 holes might line up and need to drill 2 . Driveshaft needs to be shortened approx. 2 5/8 ". 68-72 Nova might fit. Yoke should be the same. Cooler lines need massaging/lengthening. No modulator line. Later 700 style have no speedo hole, but T-350 extension housing will fit. Metric bolts in convertor. Need something to control lockup. Verify your flexplate will accommodate the 700 convertor. Floor shifter should work but might not move all the way down to low, D will be off, detent kits are available.
Thanks Randy
-- Edited by GLHS60 on Wednesday 21st of May 2014 02:14:13 AM
Thanks for the come back. Great info re the transplant. Some items mentioned that I was un aware of. The 700 donor trans is from an 86 half ton. Guy I sold the truck to is returning trans to me when he has finished dismantling the truck. Trans was rebuilt when I bought the truck and I added a trans cooler as well so hopefully has some life left in it.
-- Edited by LeeRoy on Wednesday 21st of May 2014 08:09:52 AM
If the trans is coming out of a truck, check the tail stock length. I believe they are the long one, don't know if that affects install. Might really have to shorten the driveshaft
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John
1972 Pontiac Lemans (daughter's car) 2005 Pontiac Grand Am 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
Connecting the lock up is easy, just replace current brake switch with one of these and add a power source.
(n/o - n/c switch)
....You can't use a brake/cruise switch like this for the lock up. It has to be vacuum controlled and will only lock up at higher speeds when not pulling hard. During acceleration it kicks out . A manual toggle switch can be used if a original style setup is not used. Every 350C tranny had the switch setup and is easy to find and hookup.
..can't see how it can possibly work . The lockup should kick in around 50mph , go off when accelerating and kick back on when cruising. With that switch it is sending power to the lockup all the time except when pressing the brake, not right.
I can't remember all the details, but when I installed the 200-4R in my Beaumont, I installed the brake switch AND the vacuum switch. If I recall correctly, I had to change the wiring inside the transmission - I'm sure I have details stored away.
From memory, the brake switch disengaged the lock-up, and the vacuum switch engaged it (or maybe the vacuum relay would disengage the lockup if vacuum dropped). (they say the memory is the first thing to go - can't remember what the second thing is..)
After a few thousand miles, the 200-4R started to get pretty sloppy (it was a used tranny with quite a few miles on it - I installed it just to see if I liked it - I did, but couldn't get anyone to rebuild one for me). The local shop did a 700R4 for me and they installed it. I haven't checked to see how they connected the lock-up, but it seems to work properly.
For what it's worth, I got the brake switch & vacuum relay from the wreckers for a couple bucks.
If you Google it, many people have posted diagrams showing how to wire the vacuum relay and the brake switch in.
I also used the Shiftworks conversion kit. It was pricey, but it installed easily and works perfectly.
Also - I believe both the 700 and the 200 require that the cross member be moved back to the holes in the frame intended for a TH400. The 700 is a tight fit in the transmission tunnel as well...
Thanks for the info John. I have a friend who builds race cars and bikes. He has a big "ass" lathe and all tools to shorten the drive shaft. I'm really looking for the extra gear as the car currently has a turbo 350 and 3.55 gears. Rpm too high at highway speeds and I understand the 700r4 has a lower first gear as well. I got the trans for free so figured I'd give it a shot?
Those vacuum/electric switches are a open-closed-open configuration, at least the stock one I used on the TH350C lockup I ran in my Acadian with the 427 for a number of years. The one I used came off a mid 80's V8 Cutlass rear wheel drive. Google Image 14014519 and you can see what it looks like.
I tested it with a vacuum pump and a test light. It was almost 30 years ago and I can't recall exactly the numbers but it was something like this-
0-7 inch pounds of vacuum---open
8-15 inch pounds of vacuum---closed
16-max pounds vacuum---open
They do this so that when you coast (maximum vacuum is obtained during coast) the converter unlocks
When you are cruising on the highway (middle readings) the converter locks
When you nail the throttle, vacuum drops in to the minimum range and the converter unlocks.
Don't jump all over me if my numbers are off slightly, you get the drift! It's easy to test with a circuit tester and a hand held vacuum pump.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
...Yes Carl S. , that's what I was trying to get across how it should work, only if vac is above 15 it should stay locked regardless how high it is. Accelerating hard with it locked up is robbing power and hard on the converter so it needs to unlock when vac drops when you floor it then when let off the pedal and crusie again it should lockup again. Giving constant power to it via the brake switch is just wrong.
