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Post Info TOPIC: Lower ball joint stuck


Poncho Master!

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Lower ball joint stuck


I'm replacing the control arm bushings on my 66 Beaumont.  It's been a few years since I dropped the control arms on an A-body.

I've got it blocked up by the frame, removed the shock, lower ball joint cotter key and backed the castle nut off about 1/4".  I think I have safety covered - chain through the spring and floor jack positioned about 1/2" below the control arm.

I've beat on the control arm pretty good with a 2 lb hammer.  Any more & I'll be deforming the arm.  No luck.

And I used my pneumatic hammer with a chunk of angle iron between it & the control arm.  No luck.

I remember having to bang on the control arm a bit, but not this much.

Any tips or tricks I could try before I hit it with a hot wrench and ruin the ball joint seal and risk a fire?

 

 



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A Poncho Legend!

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You haven't tried a splitter? I would give one of those a shot, I bet it will work.

bj.jpg

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door sedan 283 "survivor"


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66 Beau wrote:

 

I remember having to bang on the control arm a bit, but not this much.

 

 

 


 Should be banging on the spindle???



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Carl Stevenson wrote:

You haven't tried a splitter? I would give one of those a shot, I bet it will work.

bj.jpg


 Used to call them pickle forks. If you don't have 1 wedge your angle iron in to put more load on then hit spindle.



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Addicted!

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Ive even used a large cold chisel in place of a fork and had luck .

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Carl Stevenson wrote:

You haven't tried a splitter? I would give one of those a shot, I bet it will work.

bj.jpg


 See the flat spot on the spindle right above the left tine of the pickle fork? 2-3lbs ball peen hammer right there. With the nut in that same condition.



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Poncho Master!

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Thanks guys! I appreciate it.

I was beating on the spindle too and even put the castle nut on upside down to tap on the ball joint stud. I hate beating on machined surfaces!

I have a pickle fork, but it's a little larger than would be ideal (need to get a smaller one). I wasn't sure where to place it and was trying not to ruin the rubber seal. My control arm bushings are shot, but the ball joint and seal seem fine. Can I buy just the ball joint seal? Seems a waste to change a good ball joint, but while I've got it apart... I'm sure I can use one side of the pickle fork to persuade it.

I have broken these apart at least a dozen times - 30 years ago, and as I recall, two to three solid raps on the control arm and BANG. The ball joints on this car were obviously changed not that many miles ago, but it was at least 17 years ago. One of the downsides of not putting a lot of miles on our cars...

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Guru

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This proceedure requires two hammers, one heavy one against the backside of the spindle then strike the flat spot on the spindle. Thats why its flat. Two- three hits should free it up this why.   My two cents.



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pontiax- (canadian pontiac X frame)1964 Parisienne 2dr. hdtop lagoon aqua metallic (Q)

 



A Poncho Legend!

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pontiax wrote:

This proceedure requires two hammers, one heavy one against the backside of the spindle then strike the flat spot on the spindle. Thats why its flat. Two- three hits should free it up this why.   My two cents.





That has always worked for me in wrecking yards too, usually fool proof. At home I like a splitter cause it doesn't mess up the knuckle so bad.

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door sedan 283 "survivor"


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I like using this...
Saves on beating parts and skinned knuckles


www.howeracing.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/2154.png


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72 Nova SS - Minitubbed
70 Nova SS - #'s L-78 Bench Stick
68 Acadian SS clone - factory air
67 Chevelle rag - SS 427 clone



Poncho Master!

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That must be similar the GM tool J23742-1 that my manual describes as a "proprietary ball joint separator". They also say you can push the ball joint studs out with a thick bolt and nut.

I got the stud to pop. I tried some persuasion from pickle fork to hammers at different points. No way. Note that this is after spraying it down several times over several days with penetrating oil. Finally, I cleaned away the grease and hit it with the torch for 30 seconds. Half a dozen bangs with a two pounder and voila.

Then I discover the control arm won't drop all the way. It catches on the backing plate for the brakes. All the manuals I have show the lower control arm swinging away nicely with the brake drum held on nicely with one lug nut.  I don't recall that happening. do I have to pull the hub & brakes?

image.jpeg

Before I do, I'm going to try to pop the top ball joint.  If I can get the spindle to drop 1/2", the control arm should clear the backing plate.



-- Edited by 66 Beau on Thursday 21st of April 2016 08:32:45 AM

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Make sure the ball joint is pointing outward for it to clear backing plate. Looks to me like the ball joint is pointing inward causing the interference with backing plate. Pull/pry outward and upward,should clear.

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Poncho Master!

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I just removed a pair of spindles off my 70 GP parts car a couple weeks ago and had a hard time with the passenger side bottom ball joint because I started with the top ball joint, then a friend of mine suggested I do the bottom ball joint first so the spring puts a pressure on it as well, it came off in no time with my pickle fork and 2lbs hammer.



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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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I've never heard of just banging it for it to come apart, I've either used a stepped pickle fork, or a ball joint puller like in this photo.  It's similar to a pitman arm puller.

 



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Wednesday 20th of April 2016 07:35:13 PM

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70 2+2 convertible
70 2+2 hardtop
70 Parisienne hardtop
72 GMC Sierra

 

 



Poncho Master!

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Success! Had to remove top & bottom simultaneously, and the top one was seized too. A little heat and problem solved.

I tried prying the spindle-control arm apart to drop the lower control arm without also breaking the upper ball joint. No go. The inner lip on the backing plate is just too big.

Thanks to everyone for your help & suggestions. I need to get a smaller fork for next time, but heat saved my day.

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