My car was painted back in 1995 and the last couple years I've noticed water spots in the paint. These spots will not buff out and are only on the top facing panels. (Trunk lid and top of fenders). The hood was clear coated and still fine. The only change I can think of is using Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Wax and Ultimate Quick Detailer. I know it had showered on the car and the sun hit the droplets right after. Its as if the droplets baked in but that has happened before and no issue. Could there be too many layers of wax and why is the clear coated hood not effected when the top of the fender right beside is? I was thinking of trying removing wax but not sure what to use and don't want to ruin the paint. Any ideas or cures?
hi you could try water sanding a very small area with 1500 sand paper,,,, you would need compound to buff it then wax... with out a polisher a lot of elbow grease
hi you could try water sanding a very small area with 1500 sand paper,,,, you would need compound to buff it then wax... with out a polisher a lot of elbow grease
My grandsons truck was like that water sanded and buffed and its mint
I've got a spray can of wax & grease remover for use before painting. You could try some of a similar product in a small spot that wouldn't get noticed.
I use Mothers products. 3 part system: a cleaner (removes any grit, sap, bugs and old wax), a liquid, superfine polish, and wax. All three go on like wax. Apply, rub, let dry and buff off. A lot of work, but it seems to work great. You could try step 1 & 2.
Some waxes contain silicon to promote beading. Is it possible you used such a product on the hood & not the fenders (or vice versa)? I seem to recall warnings to not use the silicon based products but can't remember for certain.
I've got a spray can of wax & grease remover for use before painting. You could try some of a similar product in a small spot that wouldn't get noticed.
I use Mothers products. 3 part system: a cleaner (removes any grit, sap, bugs and old wax), a liquid, superfine polish, and wax. All three go on like wax. Apply, rub, let dry and buff off. A lot of work, but it seems to work great. You could try step 1 & 2.
Some waxes contain silicon to promote beading. Is it possible you used such a product on the hood & not the fenders (or vice versa)? I seem to recall warnings to not use the silicon based products but can't remember for certain.
Good luck
I used a similar part system from Meguiars and used their Meguiars-G3500-Power-System-Tool
an orbital attachment to a drill......I cleaned up a dull 35 year old paint and made it shine.
3M has a similar multi part system........I believe the only way to have any success is to use a multi part system method.
I doubt there is any single product that will do the job.
as 694279 says to use 1500 that might be a little to harsh even for a wet sanding. I would be inclined to use 2500 or 3000, you may have to work a bit more but less likely to cut through the paint. I have had mine done twice so far with no problems. After the sanding and a good polishing this will bring back the shine. However, you may make it so nice that you will have to do the entire vehicle. Hope that this helps.
as 694279 says to use 1500 that might be a little to harsh even for a wet sanding. I would be inclined to use 2500 or 3000, you may have to work a bit more but less likely to cut through the paint. I have had mine done twice so far with no problems. After the sanding and a good polishing this will bring back the shine. However, you may make it so nice that you will have to do the entire vehicle. Hope that this helps.
Luppy
x2 At the very least 2000 grit or you'll spend 10x more time polishing to get out the wetsanding marks.
