After putting in new idler arm bushing in the canso I noticed how much flex there still was in the arm. This caused the tire to too move in and out quite a bit. By pushing on the center link(not that hard) I could see the toe change about 3/8 of an inch. Was thinking,how much does it change the toe with the weight of the car going around a corner? Wanted to make up a bushing when I rememberd Dan(Dano65) worked in the industry,pm'd him and he sent me a chunk of stuff. Don't know what it's called so I hope Dan chimes in and lets us know. So tonight I started in on the project. Measure,lathed and drilled a new bushing out of the material. This is the proceedure. 1st:tore apart an old bushing so I could get the overall lenght of the inner collar on the original bushing,then measured how much bushing protruded out from each side. Measured the press fit side of orig bushing so I could lathe to the right size. Lathe, drill and then polish Idler arm bolt with fine emery cloth to get rid of any nics that may wear new bushing. Pressed new bushing into idler arm and install. This may work for other models that have the same problem. In the vid you can see the steal collar of bushing moving alot while head of bolt is stationary(top left corner). Hope to finish tomorrow.
-- Edited by hawkeye5766 on Tuesday 13th of September 2016 12:33:33 AM
Wow you didn't waste any time at all diving into this project. The material is Nylatron GS, it's nylon 6/6 with Molybdenum disulphide as a lubricant in the nylon.
If it's giving you any issues machining, here's a link to the mfg's page on machining guidelines
Stony Mountain, MB
65 Impala SS 2dr HT65 Impala convert.59 Impala 2dr HT67 Acadian Canso 2dr HT
Well got her finished off tonight and then took the car for a goood test drive. No bump steer in corners even when hitting a dip. Drove from Sooke to Sheringham Point(bumpy/windy). Will make up one more for a guy I know. No... not u Doug,your putting in a rack and last time I checked they don't use one. Thanks again Dan!
DANO65 wrote:Wow you didn't waste any time at all diving into this project. The material is Nylatron GS, it's nylon 6/6 with Molybdenum disulphide as a lubricant in the nylon.If it's giving you any issues machining, here's a link to the mfg's page on machining guidelineshttp://www.quadrantplastics.com/na-en/support/machining-information/machinists-toolkit.html
Would NylatronGS be better than Teflon? My Dad used to get Teflon bushings made for certain applications and they worked great.
Prince Edward Island'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Looks good there Jim. Glad it worked and that I could help.
Darryl, true Teflon isn't the greatest for a high stress bushing like this, it's a little soft. It's best suited for high heat or strong chemical or when you really don't want something to stick. Most white "plastics" end up getting called Teflon. A common one is UHMW Polyethylene, poor man's Teflon, great for high abrasion applications where speed and load are low to moderate, and cheap too, about 1/10 the cost of Teflon. Makes great sled runners.
Well that's our plastic lesson for today
Not a very good picture Jim, but its of a 1962-1967 Nova/Acadian drag link I had made years ago.
Eliminates bump steer from normal suspension movement while driving.
Easy to see the "wonky wheel" issue these cars have with no Engine or when the suspension travels. (blue car)
Places the inner tie rods even with the lower control pivot point.
Sherwood ParkAlberta, Canada
1981 Parisienne 400
For reference here is a shot of an early Mustang, Falcon suspension.
Inner tie rod pivot is in line with the lower control arm pivot point.