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Post Info TOPIC: Starter Woes with my 68 2+2


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Starter Woes with my 68 2+2


Hi guys,

I'm having a heck of a time with my car not starting after it warms up.

I've had the starter rebuilt, new battery, battery cables (wrapped in reflective heat tape) and a new flywheel installed.

Still happens. Anybody had any success with these mini high-powered after-market starters ? Any specific brand better than others ?

 

Regards, Scott (LandShark ...)

 



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I had an issue with mine when hot wouldn't do anything. Did some voltage tests and found a voltage drop in the small wire from the ignition switch. I tweeked the connector pins at the main firewall harness connector. That seemed to work for a while but problem returned. I then added a relay to feed that wire at the starter. I haven't had an issue since. Knock on wood. 



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I have the same problem. I put in the relay switch, added a heat shield for the starter, had the starter inspected, and it still is a problem once in a while when the car is hot mainly. I have been told this was a common problem for GM cars in the 60's. My car will always start if I use jumper cables, so I have started just carrying one of those lithium battery packs that fit in your glove compartment, as a back up.



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I used a 96-98 Vortec 350 V8 small starter on my car(s)     work mint     



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427carl wrote:

I used a 96-98 Vortec 350 V8 small starter on my car(s)     work mint     


 yup, X2



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Scott, if you would like to prove that it's a problem with the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid, try a new wire direct from the switch, ignoring the transmission safety switch.

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

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I remember the neutral safety switch giving me all kinds of grief on my 69 Laurentian. When I took it out to inspect I couldn't believe the car would start at all!
You might want to have a look at it.

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427carl wrote:

I used a 96-98 Vortec 350 V8 small starter on my car(s)     work mint     


 I guess I should try one of these starters on my  66 Beaumont. Can they still be bought new from GM or do you have to get from an auto wrecker? Will they all work with a 327, or is there anything I have to be specific about?



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When I've had the starters rebuilt for my 454's, they've used a high temperature starter solenoid.  I've never had a problem, even in 115F heat in Las Vegas with a hot motor.

 



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70 2+2 convertible
70 2+2 hardtop
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Something else to check is the tightness of the posts on the solenoid.   Especially on a new starter, never presume the posts are tight.  Double check them before putting the wiring eyelets on them.



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70 2+2 convertible
70 2+2 hardtop
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72 GMC Sierra

 

 



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Have an after market "mini" starter [ gear reduction] on the Torpedo back & had one on the 64 Catalina as well. Engine can 'heat sink" to 240F when shut off at gas station etc. Cranks it over like it's 'stone cold"

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it is unclear whether the starter is not operating (just a clicking noise? no noise at all or grunting trying to turn the motor over)????

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bob lewis


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Thanks for all the replies guys.

To be clear, the issue is "grunting trying to turn the motor over", when the car is hot.

I suspect it is the new solenoid on the rebuilt starter, as it's the only different component in the mix, that worked well before
all the changes I made this summer.

I'll investigate the high-heat solenoid option mentioned by "sevent2plus2"

Also, "dualquadpete", what aftermarket mini-starter did you use ?

 

 

Regards, Scott (LandShark ....)



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Just because a starter is rebuilt doesn't mean it's good,depends on what they did. I found the best way to check if it's starter or solenoid is to jump with a screw driver under load(kinda sucks when hot). Unplug coil(so car doesn't start)put on a welding glove get a buddy/wife to crank engine then put the screwdriver between the upper and lower post on solenoid. By doing this you are helping the contact disc from the solenoid send current to the starter. If it stays at the same rotation..starter, if it speeds up solenoid(not enough current going through solenoid contact disc). Have had a lot of solenoids that get burnt spots on them and have cleaned up on the lathe and also starters that the armeture gets burnt out on from the heat.

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seventy2plus2 wrote:

Something else to check is the tightness of the posts on the solenoid.   Especially on a new starter, never presume the posts are tight.  Double check them before putting the wiring eyelets on them.





Just be careful not to overtighten them. I've sold new ones and the guys broke them before they even put them on the starter!

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles 

1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars



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Too much initial timing....can cause a slow crank condition when hot....



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an old school starter rebuilder can "clock" the outer case on a starter to give it more torque



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bob lewis
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