Photobucket
Members Login
Post Info TOPIC: Some advice and opinions needed on my '64


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 20
Date:
Some advice and opinions needed on my '64


Brief  blast from the past:

I had a few posts on CP about 8 years ago.   I bought a 1964 four door hardtop about that time (running and driving).  Its been in storage as long.  Finally putting some plans in action to drive it this summer.  Its an untouched original complete with super faded paint (down to the factory primer in places,.. but no rust holes anywhere,..not even in the corners of the trunk!) Factory 283 2bbl 2spd with about 80K on it.  Runs fine, uses some oil, has a bit of blow-by, ticks a bit and Im totally ok with all of that.  Looking to simply make a reliable family driver out of it on a budget.  I totally restored a 64 CS in my teens.  Not going down that road again!  A few years older, my new way of thinking, drive it, enjoy it and dont worry about what it looks like. 

I should mention, I'm obviously not an enviro-friendly zero-emission tree hugger and  I make no apologies for this.  Ill leave others to their flex-fuel electric hybrids. As for me, I love burning gas!  Im not concerned about better gas mileage and I rather enjoy leaving the faint hint of Rotella 10w40 in the air to the disgust of some motorists behind me.  If Id been at the Paris climate change summit, Id probably would have been at the door handing out samples of STP and coupons for 10% off Thrush mufflers.  I would guess that I might be in good company with some of the other CP members here

Now that we're current, to the point of my post.

Im ordering some parts on Rock Auto.  Id just like to ask for help confirming a few things on parts before I place the order.  If someone can see that Im ordering the wrong parts, PLEASE tell me.

 Ive chosen the CENTRIC 13162017 C-TEK Standard Brake Master Cylinder 1" Bore.  Would this be a replacement to the stock OEM thats on it right now?

 Im rebuilding the wheel cylinders Front: CENTRIC 14468001/  rear CENTRIC 14464009 Wheel Cylinder Kit Soft Boot.  They also offer a hard boot for the back.  Ive never heard what the difference might be or what might be preferred (hard boot vs soft boot) Any thoughts?

 Ive chosen STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS DR3575C points and condenser.   (and yes,.. I prefer staying with points ignition due to cost and other considerations)  Points quality used to be a big thing back in my Dads day.  Anybody out there have positive or negative experiences with these points?

 Im replacing the front wheel bearings (both inner and outer).

TIMKEN SET2 inner 3/4" bore and TIMKEN SET6 outer.  Do these look correct for my vehicle?

Also,..my hood hinges are getting stiff.  Is there a way of rebuilding them to NEW functionality? (and done the WD40 thing but it doesn't make much of a difference)

I have more questions but Ill just post this for now.  Any and ALL opinions and suggestions are welcomed.   I appreciate all the expertise and advice from others.  Thanks in advance.

 And seeing as most CP members ask to see pictures,. here is my 64 which you may remember from my posts of 8 years ago.

my new 64 pontiac.JPG

 

 



-- Edited by 64283 on Sunday 16th of April 2017 01:24:17 PM

Attachments
__________________


Poncho Master!

Status: Offline
Posts: 2585
Date:

Welcome back. I really like the 64 Parisiennes, the Sport Sedan being a rare treat. Your car looks cool in my opinion.

I would recommend changing the valve seals, a fairly quick job for someone with experience & tools. That would help quite a bit with the oil consumption and smoke. Next comes a hyper oil change schedule. You might even consider something an additive like Marvel's Mystery Oil, take that thing out and drive it. Drain it and run synthetic and drive it. You might find your rings might unstick, but it might take a 500 mile trip with hills. Power will come back and blow-by will diminish. Make sure your thermostat is working properly. Pressure test your rad, and be prepared to deal with a heater core (watch for leaks, which wet your carpet & rot the floor). Adjust the low band on that Powerglide & change the fluid.

I don't know what to say about the various brake parts other than to rebuild the original pieces unless you find some dusty old Bear brand. If the master cylinder is anything like the Chevelle & Beaumont parts for 64, they would have done a mid-year switch from the bolted cover to the wire retained cover.

I have heard nothing but good things about this guy's hood hinge rebuilding service:   http://www.hoodhingerepair.com/ . It might run $175 USD, plus exchange bleh . Plus shipping. Plus duty. Plus brokerage. I haven't used him as I was lucky enough to buy a new old stock set of hinges and springs from Herron Chev-Olds in Mississauga (this was in the 1980s) smile



__________________

67 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe, Oshawa-built stocker 250 Powerglide 40,000 mile

Also in garage waiting: stroker 296 cid inline six & built TH350

Cameron Milne, Toronto.


I am a walking encyclopedia with numerous pages missing.



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 771
Date:

I would recommend Pertronics coil and electronics to replace the points, cheap and work great.

I'd suggest a compression check to see if its worn rings or bad valve seals. Do what CDNGM FAN said first about the long drive. The long hot drive would work good and then you'd know if it worked better without a rebuild. Dump a ca of Sea Foam in the tank before the drive.

On the hood hinge, if it holds the hood up, don't mess with it.

Don


__________________

63 Pariesienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC.

Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 20
Date:

Thanks very much for all the suggestions.

 

Do you know of anyone whos tried the nylon rope in the cylinder method of changing valve stem seals? (successfully)   Ive changed them before with compressed air in the chamber but no longer have access to a compressor.

I've never tackled adjusting the powerglide.   Is this a fairly easy process?



__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 20
Date:

Thanks for the reply.

Which exactly are the electronics that you recommend to replace the points?  Can I keep the stock distributor with the conversion? 



__________________


A Poncho Legend!

Status: Online
Posts: 33765
Date:

I have played with cars since the mid 70's (all GM) and have never had a set of points or a condenser fail me yet. If it was me, and if this is just a street driver, I'd say you are fine with a points distributor. (My personal opinion based on my own experience, your experiences may vary!) I know it's not a popular opinion but it's been a fact of life for me...

__________________
1966 Strato Chief 2 door sedan 283 "survivor"


Addicted!

Status: Offline
Posts: 245
Date:

Each to his own, but I'm with DonSSDD. Mine's had a Pertronix for ten years and the points are in the boot (sorry, trunk) in case it ever does fail. When first in my possession she smoked and blew by a lot, but a few oil changes and regular use later and all is normal.

__________________


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 920
Date:

64283 wrote:

Thanks for the reply.

Which exactly are the electronics that you recommend to replace the points?  Can I keep the stock distributor with the conversion? 


 I have pertronix in all my 64's, I chose them because I was able to maintain the original distributor and cap and wire sets 



__________________

download.spark?ID=1794672&aBID=118110

 Daily Driver / work truck  - 1988 Escort GL 72K Survivor 

Summer toy / doesn't do truck stuff- 1997 C1500 Suburban 6.5 Turbo Diesel

 



Canadian Poncho Superstar!

Status: Offline
Posts: 15313
Date:

Unless Rock Auto's pricing is cheaper (I don't know), you can find all that stuff readily available in Canada. Just ask for '64 Impala.



__________________

Prince Edward Islandbug.gif

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 20
Date:

Thanks to everyone for ALL your opinions and suggestions. I dropped the hammer today on a bunch of parts from Rock Auto. Amazing prices! I ordered the following;

Front and back brakes
4 new wheel cylinder kits
Master cylinder kit
2 front brake hoses
Front wheel bearings (inner and outer) both sides
Front wheel seals
Trans filter and gasket
New AC Delco points and condenser
HD Rotor and cap
New spark plug wires
8 AC Delco Spark plugs
Coil
Fan belts
Carb and air cleaner gaskets
2 oil filters
Alternator brushes
Thermostat
Rad cap

$280 plus $57 shipping (drop ship to US location) $337 TOTAL CANADIAN FUNDS!
I priced all these parts out here,.. close to $650 plus taxes! Thank you Rock Auto!

This should freshen the old girl up.

Thanks again for all those who replied to my post.

 



-- Edited by 64283 on Friday 21st of April 2017 09:13:15 PM

__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 20
Date:

 

I agree.  I had no issue with my previous experience with points.  It was a summer only driver. I adjusted the points and forgot about them.  IMHO,.. for your average cruiser that only sees summer driving, maybe 5000 miles a year,..points are fine.  It may have been different "back in the day" when you drove a car with points all year long including idling the car for warm up times in winter.  But for summer only cruisers, I think points are fine.  And of course $25 for points and condenser VS $175 Petronics conversion is a bonus.

Of course, each to his own.   Actually I like the nostalgia and simplicity of old school mechanics.  I guy recently told me that he used to adjust his points with a match book cover!  Apparently they are between 16 and 18 thousands thickness, exactly the correct adjustment for breaker points on a 283!  That's what I appreciate about these vintage engines,..... simple and cost effective to run.  Try and get away with a "$25 points bill" on any of today's computer controlled vehicles.  It seems that any problem on the new engines turns out to be a thousand dollar bill every time,..O2 sensors, ECM, crank position sensor and diagnostics,....etc.  You could buy a lot of points for a thousand bucks! 

Take me back to a day when you could tune your car with a match book cover, a flat screw driver and 4 inches of wire!  I guess that's when they called them the fabulous fifties! (and 60s i guess

 

 



__________________


Uber Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 3506
Date:

JR, i like your attitude about life. Concerning ignition points i am a "points less" kind of guy and have been for over 20 years, like others here i keep points in the trunk, just in case but have never needed the prehistoric type system. I would say keep your car as stock original as you can because they exude far more class that way, especially as a four door. You see two door versions of your car all the time but the four door hardtop versions very seldom. That makes your car even more sweeter, as far as i am concerned. I love your time machine and continued good luck with her. Cheers. George



__________________

1957 Pontiac Pathfinder Deluxe sedan restored 261 six

1974 Chevrolet Caprice Estate wagon low milage original 400 V-8



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 20
Date:

Thanks for the reply and encouragement!    Life just seems a bit simpler behind the wheel of one of these time machines



__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 23
Date:

I would look into google and ask about synthetic oil. I believe  this oil is not the greatest for older engines. Oil seals that are old have sealed thems over the years. With synthetic oils it will go in and break it done. And then you will have oil leaks. Looks great. Happy travels 



-- Edited by James Daughtry on Wednesday 24th of May 2017 11:03:27 AM

__________________
Page 1 of 1  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.

Tweet this page Post to Digg Post to Del.icio.us
.
.
.
.