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Post Info TOPIC: 1954 Pathfinder project...maybe


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RE: 1954 Pathfinder project...maybe


heres what I use for manuals.Since our cars are half chevy half Pontiac its handy to have a bit of both.



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Thanks Brian, I think the manual I have ordered is the 1949-1954 Pontiac red color version. These cars seem very simple, no fuse box only a 30 amp cutout to save battery in the voltage regulator? Is there a good schematic in this manual?



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Yes the wiring diagrams are good,not a lot of underhood wires maybe 15 or so.The headlights/signal wires can be a little tricky but if I can figure it out anyone can.Just a matter of finding ground and then see what wire gets power when you turn things on.Really one wire does one thing so not to hard to figure out.

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I got the manual and there is some interesting info. The schematics show a fuse box of sorts in the engine bay but I don't have one? I have a few inline fuses for the dash stuff but nothing else. The temp gauge on this car looks like its some kind of capillary style but the sensor in the block is a 1 wire style, no info on that in the manual. Any ideas?

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our caRS DON'T USE THE FUSE BLOCK,THATS KIND OF THE PROBLEM WITH THE MANUAL IS IT USES ALOT OF U.S CHIEFTAIN PICS THAT DON'T APPLY TO OUR CARS.i WILL SEE IF I CAN GET SOME PICS OF THE HEAT GAUGE TOMORROW AT WORK AND THE HOOD LATCH YOU NEEDED PICS OF.

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temp gauge runs from this bung at the ps rear of the block,through the firewall and connects onto the temp gauge



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I have the bung and capillary looking line that runs to dash temp gauge but not what goes in the block fitting. The sensor that is there is a wire style. Do you have a pic of the original sensor by chance?

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 go,e sensor end that threads into the block.



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Thanks Brian, when I went and stripped the manifolds from a parts car yesterday, I took the sensor out and found that as well. Now I just hope it still works ?????



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Brian you included a pick of your carb in an earlier post here with tag 2010s. I have acquired a 2 bbl WCD carb but with out the tag but there is only one idle adjustment screw on mine. I'm trying to determine if this is the correct carb. Looking at the pic you posted it appears yours is that way to or not? I'm told WDC carbs are very similar and hard to differentiate between them without tag but most have two idle adjustment screws so I was hoping with only the one it has to be a 2010s which is what the cars came with. This carb of mine came with hand written tag saying it was off a 53 Pontiac. Pics from the 4 sides may be helpful to if you get a chance. 

By the way I scored a working temp capillary tube and gauge along with the brass block fitting.

 



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Yesterday I found a 2010s carb for the 239 L6. Now to score a rebuild kit for it. The carb I had was very close but still slightly different to this 2010s, it has a tube for air in the throat which is the only difference from the outside that I can see. Internals may show more. Also scored a different manual which may be of some help as it has additional info in it but then again very close to the one I bought initially. 



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Well today I rebuilt the carb I got and installed it onto the new 2 bbl. intake and exhaust manifolds which were put on earlier in the week. Customized a new linkage to deal with the starter issue I had as the earlier one failed. Re-tubed the vacuum advance tubing, tougher when you have a fixed length and need to rework it without the proper tools but the vice handle worked very well for the 90* bends. Pics tomorrow if everything goes well.

 



-- Edited by cdnwillyg on Friday 4th of August 2017 08:11:07 PM

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Well things did go as well as I was hoping...

I got the car to start but still had to assist with fuel down the carb to start it but thought that might be because it was cleaned and empty. Ran okay but I needed the choke on slightly to have it rev up, thinking idle circuit not right. I did notice that the plunger or accelerator pump wasn't squirting gas into carb. Need to look at that. The carb kit I got was slightly different than what was in this carb but thought they were updates and exactly like my maintenance manual. 

Any ideas as why on both carbs this car has had it needs that gas to get it running? That's what makes me think something else is the culprit.

I checked compression and firing order, set point gap, cleaned and gaped plugs, checked for good spark, did I miss anything? I did notice it doesn't turn over that quick and was wondering if that may be part of it?

Any help is appreciated!!!!!



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hwscowboy wrote:

ok so you have the oil bath filter,which believe it or not is an option in 54.So one line run from the filter to a pass through bolt on the fuel filter.


 Brian this pass thru bolt for the oil bypass where did you get that from? On the fuel pump there are two allen plugs on either side of the pump, are these useable at all to circulate the oil?



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After much debate about keeping the Pathfinder, I decided to let her go. The amount of body work it required was more than I wanted to take on at this time so a young guy from Red Deer is now the proud owner. It hasn't been 12 hours and it seems I need a new FIX, this car disease is terrible......on the look for a new adventure. Thanks for those of you that helped me out. greatly appreciated.



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too bad to see her go so quick,heres the oil pass through bolt you asked about



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