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Looking for a compatible coolant


During this hot summer the engine ran hot because the rad was low. I topped it up with about 2 litres of distilled water. and intended to flush the system later in the year. Problem I have is to find a coolant compatible with the original engine and radiator. looking on line, Recommendations are to stay away from long-life coolants and only use the green coloured coolant (not Orange or Yellow), and that it is IAT not OAT. The service manual also recommended compatibility to GM1899M and GM1825M. Walmart has 3 possibles that might be acceptable, but I'm confused. 

Any recommendations?



-- Edited by Lad820 on Tuesday 31st of October 2017 04:40:21 PM

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www.evanscoolant.com

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www.evanscoolant.com


 

 

 



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A Poncho Legend!

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You know my bias but I'd go buy some AC Delco green anti freeze.

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At a POCI conference maybe 10 years ago, John Sawruk of Pontiac Engineering indicated they suggest a 50/50 mix of distilled water and Prestone. I've never had any problem using that combination.

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So glad you posted, I nearly forgot to check my percentage before the first frost!

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seventy2plus2 wrote:

At a POCI conference maybe 10 years ago, John Sawruk of Pontiac Engineering indicated they suggest a 50/50 mix of distilled water and Prestone. I've never had any problem using that combination.


 What Clint said has always worked for me in over 40 years.



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I do not want to even know what the so called (water less coolant) costs. I guess for non cast iron engines it must be the best way to go, but for regular run of the mill cast iron engines i will stick with my old formula. I have always used 50% distilled water and 50 % quality (green) coolant. Never had any issues even when i tore my motors apart and looked to see. 



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I just used 50% Prestone concentrate and 50% Turbo deionized water from Cdn Tire. The deionized water is suitable for cooland and battery top up according to the label. Its not exactly green but the smaller droplets look green. It just seems that the more you read about cooland the more confusing the infromation is.



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Earl36


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Boy, I've never used anything but good old tap water and GM coolant, 50/50 mix. What you guys are doing may well be better but it's always been ok for me and I've owned some cars for many many years, one of them was 27 years.

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My manual calls for GM 1899M just like Lad820 has indicated in his original post. I kind of wished I would have used GM green but I ended up picking up some Prestone concentrate that is suppose to be compatible with all makes. I also picked up some de ionized water to mix it with.

If you read up online, you will see posts that say "stay away from dexcool", "stay away from extended life coolant", "don't use yellow", "don't use orange", "don't use distilled water as it is metal hungry", "don't use de ionized water because it is metal hungry", "don't use tap water because the impurities in the water will pollute your system and react with everything" etc, etc.

I think now I wished I would have picked up some GM or AC Delco green but I can't or could not find any tech bulletins that would indicate Prestone concentrate (not dex cool) would be chemically incompatible. Good discussion as I became somewhat bewildered regarding the contrasting info on coolant.

GM green might be the best solution but, is there any other opinion or data available that can be posted?

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Earl36


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I have only once not used GREEN. That was on my '98 Safari and that cost me a new set of intake gaskets. The crap from the factory ate through them. So the first thing I do is check to see what is in the rad. My two cents.

Luppy



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Same thing I've seen a number of times on other vehicles and also one of mine. It eats up o-rings. Green forever!

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Is Prestone concentrate considered "Green"? I'm somewhat surprised by all the comments.

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Not sure if Prestone concentrate is considered "green". It certainly is not dark green, looks almost clear, smaller drops look green but the chemical makeup was what I was concerned with. I am a bit concerned because I have a new engine sitting in storage and I am wondering I need to go drain this stuff out and replace with a coolant that is "green".

Here is some info on Prestone concentrate from what I can find online.

www.pepboys.com/product/details/9307681/01036

Formulated free of silicates, phosphate, borate and nitrate
Designed to give your engine 5 year, 150,000 miles protection when added to extended life antifreeze/coolants
Meets or exceeds ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4985



images.oreillyauto.com/uploads/pdf/ad/SD_672%20AFZ%20Comparison%20Chart-1.pdf







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Earl36


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Late to the show, but in your case keep it simple. I always use CARQUEST conventional green #101. Had it in my 67 with the 350 at 50/50 and tapwater, and when I did the big block the coolant being drained out looked like new even after 4 years. The aluminum rad looked great as well. I would not bother with extended life coolants in an older system. Cheers.

anti.JPG

 



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I've always used regular Prestone with 50/50 deionized. Deionized is just pure water, tap water will have whatever impurities your water has in it. My water is high in iron for instance, your water may have something else in it. I've never had a rad or heater core go bad using Prestone. I consider it green.
Deionized is cheap at Canadian Tire and if it is good for use in a lead acid battery, I figure it must be good inside my old cooling system.

I use long life, if that's what in my modern vehicles, never lost a rad there either.

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DonSSDD wrote:

I've always used regular Prestone with 50/50 deionized. Deionized is just pure water, tap water will have whatever impurities your water has in it. My water is high in iron for instance, your water may have something else in it. I've never had a rad or heater core go bad using Prestone. I consider it green.
Deionized is cheap at Canadian Tire and if it is good for use in a lead acid battery, I figure it must be good inside my old cooling system.

I use long life, if that's what in my modern vehicles, never lost a rad there either.


 Yes, being on a well, like me, would justify using deionized water.

I think a lot of people over-think stuff, just use original Prestone 50-50.



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I guess I never thought of the water being an issue just because we have good river water here. We have no issues with iron, minerals etc in our water. No wells here because when you drill one it's pretty much the same as ocean water, it just comes out white with salt and kills any vegetation it gets to.

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Pontiacanada wrote:
DonSSDD wrote:

I've always used regular Prestone with 50/50 deionized. Deionized is just pure water, tap water will have whatever impurities your water has in it. My water is high in iron for instance, your water may have something else in it. I've never had a rad or heater core go bad using Prestone. I consider it green.
Deionized is cheap at Canadian Tire and if it is good for use in a lead acid battery, I figure it must be good inside my old cooling system.

I use long life, if that's what in my modern vehicles, never lost a rad there either.


 Yes, being on a well, like me, would justify using deionized water.

I think a lot of people over-think stuff, just use original Prestone 50-50.


 They charge the same price for the 50/50 stuff, the jug of deionized water is just next to the 100% stuff and costs around $2.00, so you get 2 jugs of 50/50 for almost half price.

 

Carl, we only have dug wells around here, drilled wells get salt water, arsenic, some have sulphur, might clog up my rad.peace.gif



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Carl Stevenson wrote:

Boy, I've never used anything but good old tap water and GM coolant, 50/50 mix. What you guys are doing may well be better but it's always been ok for me and I've owned some cars for many many years, one of them was 27 years.


        x 2      the economy, runs on a large percentage of sales of snake oil products  lol .   (2 cents) 



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