That is a neat and unmolested '69 Parisienne Sport Sedan. Interior looks great, exterior looks good. L48 350 = good (if you can find high enough octane).
It says that the pads were replaced; maybe the correct term was "shoes".
I don't know, maybe "North" could add it to his extensive 1969 Pontiac collection.
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67 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe, Oshawa-built 250 PG never disturbed.
In garage, 296 cid inline six & TH350...
Cam, Toronto.
I don't judge a man by how far he's fallen, but by how far back he bounces - Patton
The car really looks to be in decent shape, the trunk pan, while showing surface rust, doesn't appear too be bad over the #6 mount. A typically bad area.
Just for fun I saved, blew up and lightened an image of the firewall. The cowl to firewall seam looks pretty nice as well. Both these areas mentioned are usually a tell tale of overall condition.
This would be an excellent car for someone looking to "get in". Some detailing and repair, and new nose and you'd have a respectable cruiser. Well priced, and a full size 4 door HT... what more would anyone ever want lol!
300 hp 350, i thought that would have had a four barrel. This looks like a two barrel. Solid car and all there and when was the last time you saw a 69 four door hardtop.
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1957 Pontiac Pathfinder Deluxe sedan restored 261 six
1974 Chevrolet Caprice Estate wagon low mileage original 400 V-8
Looks like a nice solid cruiser... "all the good cars are out west"!
Just curious, when the Endura nose piece goes black like that, can it be fixed? I see a lot of '69 full size for sale with the nose no longer body colour, on cars that look really good otherwise.
Saving the nose depends on how brittle it is. There were a couple of variations of noses in 69, one being stronger than the other. Usually when they are black like that they are very porous looking on the surface. You might be able to buy some time with it by putting a skim coat of spot putty on it or better yet something that would be flexible and painting it (again with a flex agent added).
That is a neat car.
I remember parting out a winter car that I had that was equipped with the 300hp motor. Guys were very eager to get the heads, I don't know if they were special or what, but I got a lot of calls on them.
Saving the nose depends on how brittle it is. There were a couple of variations of noses in 69, one being stronger than the other. Usually when they are black like that they are very porous looking on the surface. You might be able to buy some time with it by putting a skim coat of spot putty on it or better yet something that would be flexible and painting it (again with a flex agent added). That is a neat car.
Thanks Todd.
I'm wondering if a repair kit for modern plastic bumper covers would provide the materials necessary to fix and paint one of these.
Seems to be the only real sore point with '69s, would be nice to know if there's a tried and true repair method, or even reproduction replacements available.
But remember dyno numbers back in the day were with open air cleaner, cool air, and headers. Which is also how we dyno them at the shop and generally get very close to pre-72 gross numbers that way.
Which is why the same motor can be installed in a Corvette, Nova, or Impala, all with different exhaust systems, and get the same power rating. Or why the LS1 has 335hp with either single OR dual exhaust.
I have physical conformation that the lid flip actually flows more air,
When I had my first car at 16, the 69 2+2 350/250 with single exhaust, of course I used to run around with the pedal pegged about 100% of the time thrashing the 350. One day I discovered the lid flip, and about a day after, taking it on another redline pegged run it suddenly went BANG changing to a roar. Thought I'd blown the engine! Nope, it had blown the intermediate pipe right off the crossover lol! Proof the air pump was moving a ton more air. Beyond the cool moaning sound, it did feel like more power, so much so it could spin a tire easily now. But the moan grew old so the lid was placed on the right way, and duals were added. That little 350/250 2bbl really pulled well.
Saving the nose depends on how brittle it is. There were a couple of variations of noses in 69, one being stronger than the other. Usually when they are black like that they are very porous looking on the surface. You might be able to buy some time with it by putting a skim coat of spot putty on it or better yet something that would be flexible and painting it (again with a flex agent added). That is a neat car.
Thanks Todd.
I'm wondering if a repair kit for modern plastic bumper covers would provide the materials necessary to fix and paint one of these.
Seems to be the only real sore point with '69s, would be nice to know if there's a tried and true repair method, or even reproduction replacements available.
when the nose turns black, it actually means that the 1/4 top layer has cracked and flaked off...no decent repair job can be done at that point. A fiberglass reproduction is made, however, I have no experience on how it fits or the quality.
Saving the nose depends on how brittle it is. There were a couple of variations of noses in 69, one being stronger than the other. Usually when they are black like that they are very porous looking on the surface. You might be able to buy some time with it by putting a skim coat of spot putty on it or better yet something that would be flexible and painting it (again with a flex agent added). That is a neat car.
Thanks Todd.
I'm wondering if a repair kit for modern plastic bumper covers would provide the materials necessary to fix and paint one of these.
Seems to be the only real sore point with '69s, would be nice to know if there's a tried and true repair method, or even reproduction replacements available.
when the nose turns black, it actually means that the 1/4 top layer has cracked and flaked off...no decent repair job can be done at that point. A fiberglass reproduction is made, however, I have no experience on how it fits or the quality.
Thanks for that. I never realized how severe the degradation was in general, though I should have picked it up from Todd's comments about it being porous.
when the nose turns black, it actually means that the 1/4 top layer has cracked and flaked off...no decent repair job can be done at that point.
... like severe frostbite!
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Years ago I put a bone stock 69 350 2bbl (rated 265 gross horses) Pontiac engine with single exhaust on a chassis dyno and it put 150 horse to the back tire. While it sounds low it made sense given that the engine was probably a bit tired and it was running AC, TH400 and power steering which all take there share of ponies. They say that the conversion from gross to net is about 15% or 20-25% if single exhaust . Then the typical drop to get from net (still measured at the flywheel but with exhaust, air cleaner and alternator etc installed), then the typical losses from net at the flywheel to the tires is typically about 15-20% (10-15 for a manual trans).
So if you take 265 and deduct 20-25% for net and then deduct another 20% for drive line losses you get about 160-165. The missing 15hp can probably be related to the age of the engine and the parasitic drag of the AC and PS belts which are not considered in the conversion to net horsepower.
Back to my point for posting... flipping the air cleaner lid resulted in an extra 5 hp exactly.
Interesting. Looks good in the pic. Price is good enough that it would be tempting to buy two and have them both painted at the same time, to have a spare with matching paint in the event of a mishap...
