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Post Info TOPIC: Recommended propeller shaft center bearing 1958 Laurentian


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Recommended propeller shaft center bearing 1958 Laurentian


Dear all,

after a few drives within the last days with my 58 Laurentian, a pretty loud sound comes from the area where the propeller shaft center bearing support is located. On saturday, I have the chance to lift up the car to check if the rubber which holds the bearing in place is maybe worn out or the bearing it self is dead.

In case it is the center bearing of the drive shaft, what I realy hopebecause it would be an easy fix, what replacement part do you recommend ?

In the web I have found several design`s with rubber arround the bearing and another one with PU and another one called "heavy duty", etc, etc...

By the way the "vibrating sound" comes by speed`s of 35 to 40 KM/h and again by arround 80 to 90 KM/h.

Any help or advice is much apreciated

Many thanks and best regards,

Magnus

 



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Addicted!

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Hi Magnus,
You will no doubt receive all kinds of suggestions. I replaced the factory type carrier bearing on my '64 CS with the billet aluminum case and the polyurethane insulator. I am extremely pleased with this upgrade which sells for around $100.00US. Good luck.

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'76 Cougar XR7 (original owner); '52 Mercury Monterey 2 dr HT (Future Project)

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Pritch wrote:

Hi Magnus,
You will no doubt receive all kinds of suggestions. I replaced the factory type carrier bearing on my '64 CS with the billet aluminum case and the polyurethane insulator. I am extremely pleased with this upgrade which sells for around $100.00US. Good luck.


 X2 - I have done this our 64 wagon and CS when we did the transmission upgrade - Highly recommended also!



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Dear all,

many thanks for the help
I also have the tendency to go with the Aluminum/PU version.

Just to be on the safety side because I dont have a spare part number for this support bearing, if I pick the 1958 to 1964 version, it should fit ?!

Thanks
Magnus

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Johnnee D wrote:

X3 on 64 CHEVY bel air


 x4 '64 Parisienne.



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'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



Addicted!

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Have a question about using the the aluminum/urethane center bearing,how does the drive line move when diff goes up and down? I have one, its not in car now as it prevents movement and bearing will fail. To use the solid aluminum part you should have slip joint in rear shaft. Learned all this from driveline vibration issues last year, put in the new style bearing asssy. still vibrated removed drive line again found bearing loose, single row ball bearing will not handle side thrust! in the oem rubber mount the rubber will flex, urethane doesn't. Use the rubber style mount the one in car was made in Mexico not to bad best part is still working. I do have slip joint in rear shaft now, alot of things done to fix vibration, didn't need the slip joint as I know now but its there. Better stop this is getting tooo long Laurie

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Poncho Master!

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I have a drive in lift and set the position of mine with the weight on the car. I always lift with the axle and loosen the pea ring bolts when I drop my axle. Never had an issue yet and it has been tears and many miles. Yes I am told slip yoke is best for this application.

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Guru

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if you decide on an original design they are available at Carquest but insist on 1 made by Timken......the engineer who designed this driveshaft hopefully was fired



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bob lewis


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Hello,

Over the weekend I have taken out the complete drive shaft and was pretty disapointet of the work someone before has done at this car

The drive shaft center carrier bearing was completely worn out and was turning free in the rubber case with out any effect.

This was resulting in the damage of all 3 U-Joint`s
On top of all, one of the U joint bearing caps was weldet together with the slip yokey, because they have broken out parts of the grove for the secure ring, which holds the bearing cap of the U joint in place.
Not enough of the botch, this U joint was 3mm out of the center line of the drive shaft which has created a kind of an"eliptical twist" when the the drive shaft was turning, what a crap....

Cant understand, that peole work in such an unprofesional way and dont do their job first time right.

Now I have the pleasure to replace more parts as I was thinking of and it will end up in a complete rebuild of the driveshaft

Anyway, hope the vibration is solved after the the repair.

regards,
Magnus






20180409_075650[1].jpg



-- Edited by Magnus on Monday 9th of April 2018 01:28:25 AM

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Poncho Master!

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Lucky that mess held together and didn't vibrate more. I have lots of 59-64 complete driveshafts (mostly powerglide, original condition, need universals and center bearing) but is a 58 not a shorter wheelbase? I wonder which parts are different?
Show Cars in the US sell some new front shafts for x frames.
Don

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63 Pariesienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. Parting out a 63 Parisienne convertible.

Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic



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At least you found this mess before it broke down on some trip.

Hopefully you know someone close to you (Sweden) that has the parts you need.



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'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



Poncho Master!

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If you check ChevyTalk at the top of the 58-60 forum or the 61-64 forum, they have an archive of discussions on driveshaft and transmission lengths on these cars.

I wonder where the difference is in the wheelbase, maybe the rear shafts are the same length and the 58 front shafts are shorter? The 59-64 rear shafts are all the same length.

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63 Pariesienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. Parting out a 63 Parisienne convertible.

Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic



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My poncho is running again

To get the spare parts was not that complicated, the u joints , shaft sealing and center drive shaft bearing was available at the dealer near by only the yokey came direct from the US by Fedex ( Monday ordered Thurday at home, that was super).

We have re placed all parts yesterday evening and the result was OK, but not perfect.
The massive vibration is gone but it is left still a kind a "light shaking" ....difficult to discribe.... I can feel it when I hold my hand on the transmission tunnel from the inside of the car.

I will fix my USB camera under the car and hopfully I can see how the drive shaft behave when I drive.


Will keep you informed


By
Magnus




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Poncho Master!

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Does the vibration vary with speed? May need the driveshaft rebalanced. When you tightened the center support bolts, did you do that with all the car's weight on the suspension, that is the correct way to do that.
Its also possible the shaking is from something else and it was disguised by the vibration from the center bearing.

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63 Pariesienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. Parting out a 63 Parisienne convertible.

Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic



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The vibration increased a little bit , but by far less with the new drive shaft parts installed, betwen 30 and 40 KM/h and again at 80 to 90KM/h.

Outside the above mentioned speeds the vibration is a little bit less and stay`s at a pretty stable sequenz.

You are right, to fine balance the drive shaft should be done and I`m just looking for a possibility to do this.
And yes, I have tightening the center bearing support bolts with the cars weight on the suspension.

Have organiced also a set of new wheels because on the balance mashine, we have seen a lateral run out at both front rim`s which may brings also some vibration into the frame ?!

But to be honest, it is a 60 years old car and to expect a drive comfort like the today cars offering is a little bit too much I would say





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Poncho Master!

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Forgot you are in Sweden. Around here the place to get a 2 piece driveshaft balanced is at a heavy truck shop, likely the same in Sweden. A Volvo repair shop would be a good place to check. The wheels could be some of the vibration.

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63 Pariesienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. Parting out a 63 Parisienne convertible.

Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic



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Hello

I have a new question

Please, where do I find some ducumentation how to remove the radio ( Deluxe) version , from the dash board ?

Have spend the whole afternoon to get it out with out succes (picture).

The knobs and secure nuts behind it I have taken of, but now ??????


20180420_173508[1].jpg

Also the instrument lights are not existing or at least not working, is it easy to remove the speedo, etc from its place ?

Or do I have to remove the complete dash board which I dont realy like to do....


Help is as always much apreciated .
Many thanks and best regards,

Magnus



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Poncho Master!

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Might be better to start a new topic Magnus.

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63 Pariesienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. Parting out a 63 Parisienne convertible.

Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic

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