picked up Themis little 63 wagon and am going to try my skills on plastic and resin this time and see if I can take this old plastic promo and make the wagon a 64. Does anyone here build resin kits? I have never done resin before
Does anyone here build resin kits? I have never done resin before.
MC (Mark).
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
I have a couple of resin kits that I haven't built yet, but in looking at the procedure the main thing is to get the mold release agent off of the bodies so that the paint will stick to them. Westley's whitewall tire cleaner seems to be the one that most builders recommend, but I don't know if that's available in Canada - I'm sure we have an equivalent here but to be honest I haven't done the research yet.
Also, regular styrene glue can't be used to bond to them, so I understand most builders use super glue or epoxy of some type. Be careful using super glue around clear parts, however, as the fumes can cause clouding of the 'glass'.
If you have to grind at the resin be sure to wear some type of respirator as I understand that resin dust is not good for your lungs.
I would also encourage you to get involved in an online modeler's forum as you can get some good advice from people who have been there, done that. Here are a few that are pretty good:
Good luck! Looks like a great project! Please post updates on your progress - I haven't built anything in some time but hope to get back into the swing of things this winter - it's good motivation when I see others' projects coming along.
Also, if you use superglue you can get it in different thickness at a good hobby shop. The thick stuff is good as it wont run all over the place. I would think brake cleaner would also remove the release agent. I use that sh*t on everything!
Thanks guys - I have built model cars for years especially as a kit - It has been years since I started on real cars but ready to get back into smaller cars. I have one replica of our convertible and our impala. when I saw this 63 I thought perhaps I can have a wagon to add to our shelf in the family room
Here's some information I copied from the Modelhaus website. They were a resin caster that recently shut down (owners retired from the business), so I thought I'd copy/paste it rather than give you the website in case it disappears soon.
WORKING WITH POLYURETHANE RESIN
GENERAL INFORMATION Each modeler is different and has differing expectation of our products. For the most part, our products are faithful reproductions of old promo and kit parts. They reflect the level of detail from the era they originated. They should not be judged by today's level of detail.
Each of you also has techniques you have developed over your years of modeling. The instructions that follow are not carved in stone. Please experiment and use good judgement in working with our products.
CLEANING The typical unplated castings will have a mold release film on them. TO PREVENT EVENTUAL PAINTING PROBLEMS, THIS MUST BE THOROUGHLY REMOVED BEFORE ANY MODEL WORK BEGINS. The best method that we have found for removing the film is letting the parts soak for 24 hours in a product from Por 15 called Marine Clean. Other soaking solutions that can be used are Castrol Super Clean or Westley's Whitewall Tire Cleaner.
BODY WORK After cleaning, the castings can be sanded, filed, drilled, or machined. Small air bubbles or imperfections can be filled with 5 minute epoxy or super glue and micro balloons. Super glue and micro balloons are great for all kinds of conversion work. See your hobby shop for micro balloons.
PAINTING We recommend that a good quality automotive primer be used on all parts to be painted. After priming, all types of automotive lacquer and enamel paints will work. Hobby paints will also give good results. If painting is done with an airbrush, fisheye preventor in the paint would be another method you could use to minimize paint problems.
GLUING For gluing, use a 5 minute epoxy or super glue.
PAINT STRIPPING If stripping paint or chrome from resin parts, test a small area first... Some paint strippers may soften the part beyond use. Scale Coat Paint Remover has caused damage to the resin we are now using. We have used Easy Off Oven Cleaner, lacquer thinner, and some brake fluids. Marine Clean will also remove many different types of paint.
WARPING Resin parts that have become slightly warped or bent out of shape can be straightened by submerging the part in hot (not boiling) water to soften. Then set the part on a flat surface or hold in position under cold running water until the part cools. This works for both plated and unplated parts. Caution should be taken with plated parts to prevent clouding the chrome with water that is too hot. Thin areas may be reworked using an electric hair dryer to heat the part in a small area.
Awesome - I have a modelhaus impala i have had for years but never built as I just never ventured into resin before. I am finally going to get things happening this winter... I to hope anyways.
Sounds like you already have the experience needed to do this up! I think resin is not bad to work with once you get the hang of the differences from styrene. Looking forward to your progress if you are able to get the time!
