I need to fond  a canadian supplier  for  a set  of  front / rear floor pans   left and right  side   for my 67  Beaumont

can any one help  me with a link ???

thank you

Cross canada out of windsor ontario.

yep, Cross Canada is your bist bet

thank you 427  carl , i did  check these guys out  online  and the catalogue link  i had did not specify  they  had a front  and rear  floor pan ( combination F R ) available. I want to install this type  in order to cover the under seat  portion  of the floor , wich has a little rust.

i will call them  to find  out

I also need the deck  that goes behind  the rear seat  of the car

and the wheather strip  to go arround the doors ( 2 d  post model )

also  a hood  without traps  ( not a fiberglass hood )

They(CROSS CANADA) will have the hood and rear deck area...

427carl wrote:

---

They(CROSS CANADA) will have the hood and rear deck area...

---

 

great  i ordered   all my  parts  two  full floor pans  L and R  also  two  seat pans   and the brace  under  ( pretty  steap  180.00)  also  one toe  board (  Firewall ext. drivers side )

also  one rear bumper ( mine was bent  on the ends )   and the  trunk  wheaterstrip

now i must find  a hood  ( standard hood with no traps ) and the  door wheathersrip  ( sedan  model )

possibly   a trunk   floor  (  side parts )

Good man Louis!     good job....

now  i have to finsh  the cutting  in the floor boards  et sand  blast   a bit  and then  find  a good  welder  !!!!

we got the door weatherstrip part # 402LM12-R    $75.90    Visit our web site    www.nosreproductions.com

Dale @ NOS

is this part number for  a post car  ????

You got it. Think I can do the window weatherstrip too. Will check tomorrow

Dale @ NOS

I look at this peice and wonder, should I used the patch floor panals and save as much http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1964-1965-1966-1967-Chevelle-Malibu-Full-Floor-Pan_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3c9c3233fcQQitemZ260318573564QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesoriginal metal or go to the factory joints and replace the whole thing?

When I did my Acadian floors I considered two things--- 1) I wanted it to look as original as possible when done 2) I considered which ways were more difficult and which were easier 1) Making it look original meant not using the whole pan. This was because one of the places just short of where the floor curves up for the firewall (toeboard) there is a factory seam. The replacement pan just goes right past that seam and while it has a crease in it to imitate the seam, you can tell at a glance that it's a fake joint there, not an actual seam. 2) I looked at maybe not doing the back part of my pans because they were basically perfect. Once you start cutting up the pan and making a seam where there isn't a factory one, you have a bunch of extra work. Just a couple of random thoughts about pans...

I have looked at the full floor for the Acadian/Novas with 4 speed hump and bucket seat mounts and thought that is the way to go. Sand blasting the floors will show what is left and from there I will decide what way to go.

The one thing that concerns me about the one piece Acadian floor is taking that much structure out of a unibody all at one time. A guy would want to be very sure the rest of the car is well secured in place.

well here  is  my  story .............

my  Beaumont  has rust  at the 4  foot sections  , also  some pin holes over de cross braces, so when i ordered  the front to rear  floor pans  , the idea  was to cover that area  to make it solid,

my question  is  how much  do i cut  , ( i dont think cutting  the  whole  area which the complete pan is about  to be welded ) I did cut  all the  rust spots  but there is stil the pin holes in question  that are by the brace area,

is it best to sand blast this pins hole area  or remove ALL  rusted metal  all over even the pin holes  ??? 
there is also  a bit of rust  on the back passenger wall of the body  ( that wall is where the window crank  assembly  is bolted , just by the rear inner fender ))
i have also one toe board  on the drivers side  to be changed  ( actually  there is about 4 inches by   5  )  that has been   cut due to  rust,  just under  the dim switch.

it does look  a bit  complicated to work arround this area  due to the steering  column and pedal linkage  and  cables.

my  other weak  spot  is the  seat pans  wich  will be both changed  including  the brace ( is this brace ment  to be welded to the frame ??  it  looks  that way )
so after i weld the brace  i will weld both seat pans  in place  , i hope  these  pans  have  a bent  area  to be welded  on the vertical part  between  the seat pan  and floor pan  , i have rust just on the bend  on the edge of that wall  part between the seat and  floor pan !!!!


i did consider  a full pan  but getting  that thing in there  when the frame  is not comming  off  is next to impossible.......

if any one wants to give me anny hints  of any  kind  , dont be shy

to your  demand  i can post pictures of the floor

my last concern   is a weak spot  by  the safety belt bolts  just on top of the tunnel  at the far end  by the back seat  , there is ruste there , and  it will have to be reinforced

it is like  a crack  and when i step  over  the tunnel  i could  feel  a slight  spring  in the tunnel  , but vey weak .

well thats it  , next step  will be the  trunk area  that might  need a pan  or two , once i remove  the gas tank  i will be able to decide.

a guy in St. Catharines e-mail pinchme@cogeco.ca had a nice 67 hood for sale

i did send  a  e mail to this guy  once   and he never replied

i will try  again  thanks

Not sure if this will make it better or worse, but......... When I was debating whether to do partial or complete floors, my 13year old son and I were scraping that tar junk off the floors to see how they looked. I commented that I was thinking of doing partial floors, and patching the pinhole areas, just to make it easier. His reply was "Dad, how do you know a year from now the spots with the pinholes won't be rusty again?" 13 years old, but I couldn't argue with excellent logic. I did front to back, both sides.

meaning.........you  did  cut out the whole  pin hole area  ????

Yes. He had a good point. I might as well do it now instead of doing 1/2 now and the other half in a year or two, saying "stupid, stupid, stupid" over and over again. I know that these cars we fix up never see bad weather after they are fixed but it really is not that much more work to do floors completely and not have to worry about them again. I can't say for you car, not having seen the floor, but I really thought my floor was not bad. Looking back, I have no regrets having done the whole thing. I can't speak for Beaumont floors being harder or easier than Acadian though. I've only done 2 Acadians. However, I actually enjoyed the job. It is very rewarding seeing it done.

Carl  , i will try  to take pictures  to see if they   come  out nice  and  will post them  here to have some advice

by  we  share the same idea  , what ever rust in place has to be  ELIMINATED  and  cut.

what ever surface  rust that remains  can be sand blasted  our  covered  with rust treatment  ( rust nutraliser )   if my term  is right !!

hers is my  floor  with  the pin holes  by the braces

1 st  set  is the passenger side from  front  going to the rear

same order for the other sequence on the drivers side

It's always hard to tell from pics but it sure looks like pretty well the whole pan will be soft. One option you have is a whole pan slit down the middle and installed in 2 pieces. Easier to install and still covers the whole floor. Would that be option?