Thank you everyone for your replies and sorry for the delay getting back to you all x x x
Firstly he is going to stick with the 'aftermarket' sway bar and purchase the new Bushings and drill the new holes.
Can I ask ......does the new Bushing Kit come with a template for the new holes. I am worried he will drill the shit out of the chassis and have nothing left !!!
Secondly cdnpont - Can I ask you another question. Where would the Chassis Number be stamped on the Chassis - he has looked on he left hand rear rail and its not there. The plate on the left hand door hinge is missing and he saw you chassis stripped down and you may be able to tell him where else it could be stamped. We desperately need this to register it for Australian roads and its causing him a nightmare.
Thank you all again you are ALL gems x x x
Have a great weekend
Karen x x x
cdnpont said
May 4, 2024
The frame number should be on the drivers side rear Karen. As far as I know, just behind and in line with a small protruding bump like seen below. Sometimes you really need to clean the area to find it. On some Canadian cars it becomes pretty much invisible due to rust, but your cars should never have that issue.
Maybe a frame other than Budd might be somewhere else? I'm no expert in the least on this. Guys?
Here's Randy's stamping,
As far as the bar bracket, I've never seen it come with a template. Shouldn't need one. Just remove the existing stock brackets, bushings and bolts. Take the forward bolts and place a new lockwasher on them. Pass the forward bolts through the frame from the top and leave them hanging down to use as a guide. Passing them through with a new lockwasher makes it easier to tighten up as the bolt head is in a pretty tight spot.
Grease then slide the new bushings on the bar, center them up with the existing forward bolt holes. Push the brackets over the bushings and the hanging bolts.
Place a flat washer then a nut loose on those hanging bolts. Pull the bar as far forward on the frame as far as you can on the bracket slots, without it contacting the two pass through holes in the frame. Tighten the forward nuts and bolts just snug.
From below, strike a punch mark on the frame centered in the new rearward bracket slot. Drill a pilot hole. Finish with slighter better than the original bolt size. Wear gloves and long sleeves, you'll be getting a shower of hot cuttings when working below!
Drop the original rear bolt through the new hole from the top, add a nut and washer below, and tighten it all up.
1969 shown,
This is the Energy bracket and Addco bar on my 67, should be what you will be looking at,
One thing you need to do of course is confirm the bar diameter before ordering the bushing and bracket kit.
The second thing is, if you are doing poly bushings, they cannot be greased with organic lubricant like wheel bearing or chassis grease. It must be silicone or you'll kill the poly bushing, and be in for a loud squeak.
My go to is the Super Lube brand. Don't know what's available in Australia, but it has to be silicone.
You likely should not have any trouble getting Energy products there, but if you need help getting the parts or grease, let me know. I can get basically next day here and forward it to you.
Another alternate is Summit Racing who ship worldwide.
The frame number should be on the drivers side rear Karen. As far as I know, just behind and in line with a small protruding bump like seen below. Sometimes you really need to clean the area to find it. On some Canadian cars it becomes pretty much invisible due to rust, but your cars should never have that issue.
Maybe a frame other than Budd might be somewhere else? I'm no expert in the least on this. Guys?
Here's Randy's stamping,
Missu, is your Parisienne Right Hand Drive or Left Hand Drive? I ask because cdnpont said it should be on the drivers side, which to us would be the left hand side.
I sandblasted a 1969 Parisienne frame, and the VIN (Serial Number) was not visible anywhere on it, so it might not be there. I sold a 1968 Parisienne frame, and he found the VIN on the top of the right rear frame rail.
seventy2plus2 said
May 4, 2024
Also, when she mentions the Chassis Number, I believe she's looking for the VIN as the VIN tag is missing.
4SPEED427 said
May 4, 2024
seventy2plus2 wrote:
I sold a 1968 Parisienne frame, and he found the VIN on the top of the right rear frame rail.
That is where I've seen it in the past also. And it won't be the full VIN, likely just the last 6 digits of the VIN. However, if you find that we should be able to figure out the rest of it if we know year, model (sedan, hardtop, wagon etc). Is the firewall tag still on the car?
Firstly he is going to stick with the 'aftermarket' sway bar and purchase the new Bushings and drill the new holes.
Can I ask ......does the new Bushing Kit come with a template for the new holes. I am worried he will drill the shit out of the chassis and have nothing left !!!
Secondly cdnpont - Can I ask you another question. Where would the Chassis Number be stamped on the Chassis - he has looked on he left hand rear rail and its not there. The plate on the left hand door hinge is missing and he saw you chassis stripped down and you may be able to tell him where else it could be stamped. We desperately need this to register it for Australian roads and its causing him a nightmare.
Thank you all again you are ALL gems x x x
Have a great weekend
Karen x x x
The frame number should be on the drivers side rear Karen. As far as I know, just behind and in line with a small protruding bump like seen below. Sometimes you really need to clean the area to find it. On some Canadian cars it becomes pretty much invisible due to rust, but your cars should never have that issue.
Maybe a frame other than Budd might be somewhere else? I'm no expert in the least on this. Guys?
Here's Randy's stamping,
As far as the bar bracket, I've never seen it come with a template. Shouldn't need one. Just remove the existing stock brackets, bushings and bolts. Take the forward bolts and place a new lockwasher on them. Pass the forward bolts through the frame from the top and leave them hanging down to use as a guide. Passing them through with a new lockwasher makes it easier to tighten up as the bolt head is in a pretty tight spot.
Grease then slide the new bushings on the bar, center them up with the existing forward bolt holes. Push the brackets over the bushings and the hanging bolts.
Place a flat washer then a nut loose on those hanging bolts. Pull the bar as far forward on the frame as far as you can on the bracket slots, without it contacting the two pass through holes in the frame. Tighten the forward nuts and bolts just snug.
From below, strike a punch mark on the frame centered in the new rearward bracket slot. Drill a pilot hole. Finish with slighter better than the original bolt size. Wear gloves and long sleeves, you'll be getting a shower of hot cuttings when working below!
Drop the original rear bolt through the new hole from the top, add a nut and washer below, and tighten it all up.
1969 shown,
This is the Energy bracket and Addco bar on my 67, should be what you will be looking at,
One thing you need to do of course is confirm the bar diameter before ordering the bushing and bracket kit.
The second thing is, if you are doing poly bushings, they cannot be greased with organic lubricant like wheel bearing or chassis grease. It must be silicone or you'll kill the poly bushing, and be in for a loud squeak.
My go to is the Super Lube brand. Don't know what's available in Australia, but it has to be silicone.
You likely should not have any trouble getting Energy products there, but if you need help getting the parts or grease, let me know. I can get basically next day here and forward it to you.
Another alternate is Summit Racing who ship worldwide.
Missu, is your Parisienne Right Hand Drive or Left Hand Drive? I ask because cdnpont said it should be on the drivers side, which to us would be the left hand side.
I sandblasted a 1969 Parisienne frame, and the VIN (Serial Number) was not visible anywhere on it, so it might not be there. I sold a 1968 Parisienne frame, and he found the VIN on the top of the right rear frame rail.
That is where I've seen it in the past also. And it won't be the full VIN, likely just the last 6 digits of the VIN. However, if you find that we should be able to figure out the rest of it if we know year, model (sedan, hardtop, wagon etc). Is the firewall tag still on the car?