The question earlier today regarding an oil pan and mounts made me think about how often the question about these V8 conversion parts is asked. I thought I would share my experience with this as I've done this at least 5 or 6 times over the years. I will have missed some stuff I'm sure so will edit as it's recalled. Please feel free to note things I've missed and I will add them.

Parts needed to do a complete conversion. These are the pieces that are unique to Acadian and Nova 62-67----

-front sump engine oil pan (Note 1)

-engine oil dipstick and tube (Note 2)

-oil pump (Note 3)

-oil pump pickup tube and screen (Note 4)

-oil pump driveshaft (Note 5)

-frame mounts for engine (Note 6)

-exhaust manifolds (Note 7)

-lower alternator bracket (Note 8)

-radiator and spacer that goes between radiator and radiator support (Note 9)

-V8 fuel line from tank to pump (Note 10)

-V8 throttle arm coming off the firewall bracket (Note 11)

-3/8" fuel tank sending unit that was available only on 327 Acadians (Note 12)

-Engine mounts (not for the frame, the ones that bolt to the engine. (Note 13)

-Plug for dipstick tube hole in block if a non-Acadian V8 block is used

-Short style water pump and pulleys if original manifolds and alternator brackets are to be used.

-If converting to manual trans, see the "Acadian manual trans conversion" thread I will try to work on in the near future!

*****************************************************************


Note 1- Available new aftermarket. There is also a front sump repro pan available for the 86 and up small blocks with one piece rear crankshaft seal.

Note 2- Stick available new but slightly different in appearance, tube is repro I think

Note 3- Available new aftermarket. Melling # M-73.  This pump will bolt on to a 350 but because of the design, a connecting rod nut (I think it's #8) rubs on the pump so some grinding is required.

Note 4- Available new GM. This is the original one from 283/327 Acadians # 3790870. It requires a small hole to be drilled and tapped in the block for a retaining bolt, or a bracket to be fabricated to attach it to a main cap bolt. The original L79 piece used a bracket to a main cap bolt. Either one will work and of course nobody can see if you used the 283 style or L79 style once the pan is on.

Note 5- Available new GM or aftermarket.  Melling # IS-55D.  Slightly shorter than all other small block shafts.

Note 6- Available repro. Install the longer one on the driver's side, short one on the passenger side.

Note 7-   Both manifolds are "Rams horn" manifolds that angle back. Some people substitute manifolds from 67-72 Chevy pickups which will suffice but the alternator mounting brackets from the pickup must be used also.

Note 8- A tough find.

Note 9- No repro that I'm aware of and maybe a bit tough to find but not impossible

Note 10- Not mandatory but the 6 cylinder line runs very close to the exhaust coming off the engine, heating the fuel before it gets to the pump. The V8 line runs along the outside of the subframe and comes in under the battery tray to the pump. I have sometimes cut off the 6 cyl line approx under the passenger front seat and made a new line that runs along the outer side of the subframe rail.

Note 11- Some year 6 cylinders have an arm that will work with V8's, some have to be changed. Not sure of the years exactly at this point.

Note 12- The 3/8" fuel sending unit is not mandatory but it will help prevent fuel starvation on higher performance applications. It's very easy to change. The tank does not need to be removed to replace it.

Note 13 -  The original mount  is a GM 3990914. If possible, find NOS mounts because the aftermarket mounts for the most part are crap and don't fit. 2267 is the aftermarket mount number. Most of them are made with steel about 1/2 the thickness of the GM pieces plus they are moulded wrong and will not let the engine sit in the correct spot.



Miscellaneous Ramblings....
________________________________________________________________

If the swap involves using a manual trans, a complication arises. The Acadian V8 block has a unique boss in it that is threaded for the Z bar pivot ball. No other block has provision for this. An aftermarket bracket is available to convert a standard block but it is not the perfect solution.

__________________________________________________________________

If the swap involves changing to a Turbo 350 trans, the front of the trans crossmember needs to have a strip removed the width of the trans pan or it will hit the crossmember. This involves removal of that area and welding in some reinforcements where the crossmember was weakened by this trimming.

___________________________________________________________________

If chassis headers are to be used with a column shift, "extreme" engineering and fabrication skills are required to make the linkage work! Apparently Lokar makes a universal linkage that will work, but I've never seen one in person.

___________________________________________________________________

If removing an automatic trans from a V8 Acadian, remove the distributor cap (to keep it from wedging/breaking against the firewall), drop the rear of the trans down several inches and use about 3'-4' of 3/8" extensions with a flex socket to get the top 2 bolts in the bellhousing. These are very challenging any other way.

__________________________________________________________________

All V8 Acadians came with a factory front sway bar, for good reason! All wagons had a front bar as well. Put one on if you convert to a V8.

__________________________________________________________________

wagon64sd wrote:

---

the man has got it down to a science..

---

ARCADIAN wrote:

---

and only the 10 inch clutch and pressure plate, bellhousing #383?

---

62Beaumont wrote:

---

Very good list Carl. I've only done one of these installs but here's other things to think about:

Dipstick hole delete plug, if using a non-Acadian/Nova block.
This will cap off the dipstick hole in the block now that the dipstick is in the oil pan.

Oil pan gasket needs to have the thin front seal to fit the front sump pan.

Good idea to use a short water pump if you have a long pump it may not clear your rad.

Not required but swapping in a 3/8" fuel sending unit in your tank instead of the 6 cyl 5/16" unit will restrict fuel supply less.

---

Good points Joel. I will add that stuff.

I have never tried one with a long water pump but it would fit if the V8 rad spacer is not used I would think because that spacer must be at least  2 1/2" thick.

acadiansrus wrote:

---

how long is the oil drive shaft for the chevy II

---

saltflats

Member

from Missouri

we can trade i have the other type along side the engine

Great list Carl.  This is exactly the point I was trying to make when I posted on the 65 Acadian 2 dr sedan, For Sale thread.  The comment was made, "just throw a 327 4 speed in it".  You have illustrated my point that it isn't that easy and there are a couple of subtle differences between the 62-65 versus 66-67.

Actually another comment I wanted to make is if you are inclined to own a 62-67, V-8 automatic or manual.  It is considerably easier to buy a full size Pontiac, 62-67 and just throw a V-8 into it to drive on sunny days.

The first Canadian Nova Convertible I bought was a 1962 in BC.  The owner had installed a 350 V-8 with a 350 Turbo trans.  No additional modifications had been done.  No rad spacer had been installed, long water pump, clutch fan and a trans cooler was installed and mounted just below the battery tray.  I picked this car up in August and drove to Reno, NV.  Then I drove it to Michigan and it never got hotter than 205 in traffic or on the highway.  My claim has always been to never use trans fluid lines to the Radiator.  This convertible with a good Rad only cooling the motor and a good fan close to the Rad will do the job.  The only other part that might help is a shroud.  Spacer is needed for proper restoration but a good shroud will also do the job.

Years ago I was always told the L-79 was the only Nova/Acadian with 3/8" fuel line, not sure about that.  Any time we have replaced fuel lines on the early cars we move them from the center of the car to the outside rocker area.

Note:  In discussing performance mod's to the 62-63 Nova/Acadian's we haven't even mentioned these cars have 4 lug hubs and 9" brakes about 2" wide.  Throw that V-8 into the car and see how fast you are looking at disc brakes or an upgrade to dual master cyl at a bare minimum.    

All of this talk of V-8 conversions and installing a 4 spd has just really peaked my interest in getting my hands on the 66 Acadian Canso I bought in Kelowna, B.C.  What I know is the car has a running 327 and a muncie 4 spd.  Viewing the photo's of the car has given me a certain vibe for the quality of the work completed thus far.  I don't remember how many vehicles I have purchased sight unseen but I do know everyone says don't do that.  My experience has been very good overall.  I take a lot of things into consideration when making a purchase like this.  I always end up feeling a vibe for the purchase.  I like to think I'm better than most at doing this because I notice all the details and I try to ask all the right questions.  I do need to give a shout out to Jerel on this one as he was my eyes and ears on this purchase.

I'm just so anxious to discover all the details of the parts used in converting this car to the car that it is today.  One of the good details is I do believe this was an original V-8 car (283) prior to installing the 327.  If this was a manual trans car that would be another big big plus but odds are it was an automatic so bell housing, clutch, clutch linkage and trans lingage are very important.