this is my first post so ill give ya a bit of info on the car first as i haven't filled any sig info out yet.
1968 Beaumont Butternut yellow 2 door post car. came from the factory with a inline 6 and auto trans. 10 bolt rear end and manual brakes.
it is very rusty, and will need full Floor and trunk as well as maybe a firewall, both full rear quaters and roof skin ( someone cut a sunroof in it at one point in the last 45 years)
also will need wheel tubs and the front part of the dash where it meets the windshield.
My questions are these: where is everyone getting there sheet metal from in Canada, or in Alberta would be best,
and is there a "best" way to start doing the body, as in what parts do i replace first,. firewall, floor , trunk wheel tubs, roof then quarters?
and if i need a new dash frame, what car's use the same one?
thanks
-- Edited by Pooch on Monday 23rd of May 2016 07:00:15 PM
jmont64 said
May 23, 2016
Wow. Just a couple questions for you too. I am guessing you aren't a bodyman by the questions you are asking (neither am I) but am thinking you are thinking of doing this project yourself. Just curious what actually is solid on this car, the frame maybe? The work you are looking at is usually only done on a super rare car as there are so many hours of work to go into it even if you aren't paying the body shop to do it. Not trying to discourage you but with some cars even if you get them for free there is too much work to be done on them to make sense. Many times you are better off paying a few thousand and getting a car that needs far less repair and not getting frustrated when you are half way through. This is just coming from an old guy who thinks that if this is your first restoration you may well want to try one a little less challenging to start. I've done a couple with much less work than yours and it can be a test at times.
Pooch said
May 23, 2016
I'm a licensed mechanic by trade. And have done a small amount of body work (very small) lol.
Got the car for cheap enough and it's going to be a project for sure.
The frame is really solid, only one little spot that needs repair.
I'm in no rush and I know what projects can take. I've built a couple reg cab short box halfton duramax sport trucks. So no probig.
Just wondering where everyone is getting sheet metal?
4SPEED427 said
May 23, 2016
Give our sponsor at the top of this page, NOS Reproductions a try. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised dealing with them.
Good luck with your project, it does sound like a big one!
2drpost said
May 23, 2016
start at the bottom, one piece floor pan...
Pooch said
May 23, 2016
Thanks for the link and advice.
I figure that I'll brace the body and take it down to the support's and go from there.
It would be nice to find a good body but these cars are getting to be 50 years old and unless it's been restored already there all going to need work. May as well do it myself and learn on the way. Lol.
Thanks again
Pontiacanada said
May 25, 2016
Welcome from Canada's east coast!
Beaumont67SD said
May 25, 2016
Welcome Colby - I'll take a stab, at the auto body rebuild process. a) new door bushings, and get perfect gaps / remove doors & weld 1" square tube bracing, in jams / to keep true b) lift body off frame (approx a foot) / cut out main floor and leave most of trunk pan intact (for some rigidity) / drill out inner rocker spot welds c) remove all main floor & inner rocker rusted metal d) slip in a complete 1 piece floor with floor braces & inner's / start plug welding, the 5/16" diameter holes Mig solid / flatter weld insures full penetration e) next move to the full trunk pan install f) bolt body back on frame / and start re-skinning exterior of 1968 Beaumont, with premium reproduction sheet metal
^^ Auto Metal Direct (out of USA) - premium AMD die stamped rear quarters (1 piece, CNC formed, heavy gauge steel / they join into roof sail pillar, just like factory) / full exterior door skins / reproduction front fenders / one piece trunk floor - licensed GM sheet metal. - even many Southern USA cars these days, need same - install 2,510 US$ in correct new tin, you got a brand new body, free of bondo and perfectly straight plus save auto body labor costs www.autometaldirect.com/categories.php
-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Wednesday 25th of May 2016 05:10:15 PM
Pooch said
May 25, 2016
Wow that is exactly what i wanted , thank you.
iv got a start on the car. only thing is the body is off the frame now. but not hard to bolt back on. i have a two post hoist so life is good that way.
ill for sure look into the suppliers you listed. thanks
427carl said
May 25, 2016
Good luck we need photos
Beaumont67SD said
May 25, 2016
Pooch wrote:
Wow that is exactly what i wanted , thank you. iv got a start on the car. only thing is the body is off the frame now. but not hard to bolt back on. i have a two post hoist so life is good that way.
ill for sure look into the suppliers you listed. thanks
Pooch - Full door skins are $130 vs shells at $360 US$, for 1968 Chevelle...and we all like project photos & details.
Caution: 1967 repro shells don't fit, so I don't know how good the 68's are
- on my SD project, I'll be using my original door frames and re skin them in AMD (solely)
- from what I know AMD full quarters & complete front fenders, are very decent (retooled) / can't say the same, for other re-manufactured tin
Note- Several of the quality builders from Goodmark quit and started the company Auto Metal Direct.
More reading: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/23934-dynacorn-v-goodmark
1968 Camaro Roof and Window Rust Repairs Video - V8TV
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IExXzd-jH2k
-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Wednesday 25th of May 2016 11:25:14 PM
Paulish said
May 25, 2016
Hello from Lethbridge!
Where are you in Alberta?
hawkeye5766 said
May 26, 2016
Welcome to CP, would luv to see pics of the project. Anything can be fixed....comes down to time,effort,$$$$ and determination. As Jerel states, sounds like a big project to tackle, but was also told by bodymen that my 57 chev was unfixable! Lots of knowledgeable guys on here so just fire away if you run into a bump.
Pooch said
May 26, 2016
this is all I have for pics so far.
the floor has holes , the brace's are half gone,
the doors actually look like they are in good shape,
thanks for the info and interest , there is lots of info on here to sift through, but that's a good thing!
I've had the car a week and got the frame split from it already, just built a couple casters to roll the body around on for now.
going to strip the frame of suspension and rear end then blast it. fix any issues with it then start putting parts back on.
I've had the car a week and got the frame split from it already, just built a couple casters to roll the body around on for now.
At that pace you'll have it done in no time! All the best!
Pooch said
May 26, 2016
O and I'm from Wainwright area.
Beaumont67SD said
May 26, 2016
Here is a long thread, to fully study - jammed full of info.
- the poster is a very accomplished body man & has researched much, in the Chevelle rebuild tin process
What to do with a Rusty Car http://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-body-shop/833073-what-do-rusty-car-11.html
Beaumont67SD said
May 26, 2016
Beaumont67SD wrote:
Here is a long thread, to fully study - jammed full of repro. sheet metal info.
- one of the best procedural documentations, on these "A" body rebuilds
- poster is a very accomplished body man & has researched much, in the Chevelle rebuild tin process
What to do with a Rusty Car / by BlueSS454, from NJ http://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-body-shop/833073-what-do-rusty-car.html
-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Thursday 26th of May 2016 11:22:07 PM
Pooch said
May 27, 2016
wow mine is no where near that bad lol. so there is hope haha. thanks for the read!
Ponchoheart said
May 27, 2016
Hey Colby , good luck with the Post car ,..love them!! I've got a 69 ! Did you buy that car of a guy in Red Deer ? I believe have had a white one as well?
Pooch said
May 27, 2016
i did buy it from a fella in Reddeer with another 69 with newer fenders and a 350 in it.
nice guy for sure.
sixtyeightSD said
Jun 16, 2016
Has anyone installed 68 AMD quarters? I'm hesitant to buy AMD again after the saga with my 70 charger. The panel's were sooo wavy. 35 hours body work to straighten the passengers full quarter. Main line had to be remade as crooked. The side marker hole had to be cut and reshaped/shrunk as it didn't fit. $10k in AMD metal and definitely wasn't happy with the quality. As we know most jobber metal parts are crap.I was hoping AMD to be "premium" parts. Wasn't the case at all with the Chrysler line.have a hard time believing GM panels will be any different
-- Edited by sixtyeightSD on Thursday 16th of June 2016 08:30:11 AM
Pooch said
Jun 16, 2016
thats shitty, i was have been looking around and they sure sound like the best out there but its always hard to tell.
i won't be doing any body work for a while, im just getting all the suspension and brakes done this year , along with blasting the frame and fixing one weak section .
Hi guys and gals,
this is my first post so ill give ya a bit of info on the car first as i haven't filled any sig info out yet.
1968 Beaumont Butternut yellow 2 door post car. came from the factory with a inline 6 and auto trans. 10 bolt rear end and manual brakes.
it is very rusty, and will need full Floor and trunk as well as maybe a firewall, both full rear quaters and roof skin ( someone cut a sunroof in it at one point in the last 45 years)
also will need wheel tubs and the front part of the dash where it meets the windshield.
My questions are these: where is everyone getting there sheet metal from in Canada, or in Alberta would be best,
and is there a "best" way to start doing the body, as in what parts do i replace first,. firewall, floor , trunk wheel tubs, roof then quarters?
and if i need a new dash frame, what car's use the same one?
thanks
-- Edited by Pooch on Monday 23rd of May 2016 07:00:15 PM
Good luck with your project, it does sound like a big one!
start at the bottom, one piece floor pan...
Welcome from Canada's east coast!
Welcome Colby - I'll take a stab, at the auto body rebuild process.
a) new door bushings, and get perfect gaps / remove doors & weld 1" square tube bracing, in jams / to keep true
b) lift body off frame (approx a foot) / cut out main floor and leave most of trunk pan intact (for some rigidity) / drill out inner rocker spot welds
c) remove all main floor & inner rocker rusted metal
d) slip in a complete 1 piece floor with floor braces & inner's / start plug welding, the 5/16" diameter holes Mig solid / flatter weld insures full penetration
e) next move to the full trunk pan install
f) bolt body back on frame / and start re-skinning exterior of 1968 Beaumont, with premium reproduction sheet metal
^^ Auto Metal Direct (out of USA) - premium AMD die stamped rear quarters (1 piece, CNC formed, heavy gauge steel / they join into roof sail pillar, just like factory) / full exterior door skins / reproduction front fenders / one piece trunk floor - licensed GM sheet metal.
- even many Southern USA cars these days, need same
- install 2,510 US$ in correct new tin, you got a brand new body, free of bondo and perfectly straight plus save auto body labor costs
www.autometaldirect.com/categories.php
1967 Chevrolet Chevelle SS396 - The AMD Chevelle: Part 1
www.superchevy.com/how-to/paint-body/sucp-1112-1967-chevrolet-chevelle-ss396-restoration-part-1/
Some "A" body tin - 40% off / manufacturer ?
http://www.partsgeek.com/snnk7q8-chevrolet-chevelle-quarter-panel.html?utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=ac&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShoppingCom&fp=pp&utm_term=Chevrolet+Quarter+Panel
-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Wednesday 25th of May 2016 05:10:15 PM
iv got a start on the car. only thing is the body is off the frame now. but not hard to bolt back on. i have a two post hoist so life is good that way.
ill for sure look into the suppliers you listed. thanks
Good luck we need photos
Pooch - Full door skins are $130 vs shells at $360 US$, for 1968 Chevelle...and we all like project photos & details.
Caution: 1967 repro shells don't fit, so I don't know how good the 68's are
- on my SD project, I'll be using my original door frames and re skin them in AMD (solely)
- from what I know AMD full quarters & complete front fenders, are very decent (retooled) / can't say the same, for other re-manufactured tin
Note - Several of the quality builders from Goodmark quit and started the company Auto Metal Direct.
More reading: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/23934-dynacorn-v-goodmark
http://www.camaros.net/forums/12-body-shop/171746-67-repro-full-quarter-panel-yikes-its-bad.html
Youtube: How to replace a quarter panel - https://www.youtube.com/results?q=1967+chevelle+quarter+panel+replacement
Floor pan replacement - https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1967+chevelle+floor+replacement
Excellent Videos:
1968 Camaro firewall replacement part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3-Mto-uMSE
1968 Camaro firewall/floor pan replacement part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvkfmM58ENw
1968 Camaro floor pan/firewall install part 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRxBLV6596k
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1967 Camaro RS Factory Style Panel Replacement Notes Video - V8TV
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGR-g-ag6Kg
1968 Camaro Roof and Window Rust Repairs Video - V8TV
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IExXzd-jH2k
-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Wednesday 25th of May 2016 11:25:14 PM
Hello from Lethbridge!
Where are you in Alberta?
Welcome to CP, would luv to see pics of the project. Anything can be fixed....comes down to time,effort,$$$$ and determination. As Jerel states, sounds like a big project to tackle, but was also told by bodymen that my 57 chev was unfixable! Lots of knowledgeable guys on here so just fire away if you run into a bump.
this is all I have for pics so far.
the floor has holes , the brace's are half gone,
the doors actually look like they are in good shape,
thanks for the info and interest , there is lots of info on here to sift through, but that's a good thing!
I've had the car a week and got the frame split from it already, just built a couple casters to roll the body around on for now.
going to strip the frame of suspension and rear end then blast it. fix any issues with it then start putting parts back on.
At that pace you'll have it done in no time! All the best!
Here is a long thread, to fully study - jammed full of info.
- the poster is a very accomplished body man & has researched much, in the Chevelle rebuild tin process
What to do with a Rusty Car
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/12-body-shop/833073-what-do-rusty-car-11.html
-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Thursday 26th of May 2016 11:22:07 PM
i did buy it from a fella in Reddeer with another 69 with newer fenders and a 350 in it.
nice guy for sure.
Has anyone installed 68 AMD quarters? I'm hesitant to buy AMD again after the saga with my 70 charger. The panel's were sooo wavy. 35 hours body work to straighten the passengers full quarter. Main line had to be remade as crooked. The side marker hole had to be cut and reshaped/shrunk as it didn't fit. $10k in AMD metal and definitely wasn't happy with the quality. As we know most jobber metal parts are crap.I was hoping AMD to be "premium" parts. Wasn't the case at all with the Chrysler line.have a hard time believing GM panels will be any different
-- Edited by sixtyeightSD on Thursday 16th of June 2016 08:30:11 AM
thats shitty, i was have been looking around and they sure sound like the best out there but its always hard to tell.
i won't be doing any body work for a while, im just getting all the suspension and brakes done this year , along with blasting the frame and fixing one weak section .