And...finally got the "Hump" welded in and the ring shaped, welded and fitted to work with the nova boot.
Quickly covered the mess in Kilmat as I was tired of looking at it. Shifts through the gears without the boot binding, so that's good. The carpet and trim ring will finish it up.
Opened up the mounting holes in the firewall and pedal support to take a 67 ? and up 11" power brake booster.
Pushed out the pressed in mounting studs on the pedal mount, and round filed the lower holes slotted, to accommodate the (narrower) 3 3/8" booster spacing. All 4 booster studs are 3 3/8" apart.
The support upper booster holes are 3 3/8, but had to be relieved open a little to take the booster stud. The pressed in stud hole diameter is narrower.
Round filed the lower firewall holes slotted to accommodate same. The upper mounting holes are the third from the bottom, already 3 3/8".
Test mounted the booster. Nice!
The pedal support is year unknown (maybe 66?), it came with the 4 speed pedal, Z bar and rod setup. If I'm correct, as of 67, the holes in the firewall and support changed to accommodate the 3 3/8" booster spacing.
The booster is a MPM product, so hopefully it is of decent quality. I've had it for years now. Now I need to make a gasket to seal the booster the firewall.
Mark
Who is the supplier of the PB brake booster you are using, and where can I find it? Thanks
Problem is, I dont think the one I have is setup for the B Body. It's probably a A, F, X car booster owing to the pushrod being so long. But the body is the same. Guts...I don't know.
I can either cut the rod shorter to the correct length, run a die down it, or take it to a local brake component rebuilder and have the rod replaced with the correct one. I'm leaning towards the latter.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
This looks like the kind I need. I ordered one from Classic Industries that was supposed to be correct for the 68 B body but it did not fit and I sent it back. In the interim I'm using the original which is in good working condition but I really want to get a new one which has the proper plating and markings as well as the right bolt pattern. I'll look into this a one a bit more. Thanks for the info.
I had some time to start stripping these two 64s down and send the rest to the bone yard. Blue one is quite rusty so am stripping out the glass, seats, and whatever else is easy. Looks like Ill do the same with the white one as there hasnt been much interest and it needs a lot of work. May try save the frame as it looks really good. Have to say I enjoy pulling these apart almost as much as trying to keep them running.
Interesting. That is exactly where ours rusted Todd. At that white plastic retaining clip. How did you fix it?
Lovely cars when new. Not so good at 10 years or above.
I Krowned my '07 when I bought it (1 year old) and bought some cans of Rust Check to touch up potential vulnerable spots (i.e. clamp locations of metal pipes), and no corrosion problems yet at 13 years old. I have had the Krown reapplied a few times over the years, but not every year like they suggest. Downside is that it does swell up some rubber items over time, but the Honda hasn't been too bad. The '97 Chrysler suffered swollen rubber items much worse, but is still not showing rust.
If you get a chance, spray some rust check on the lines around the fittings at the rack, and the transfer tube that runs at the back/top of the rack. Those can be a pain to replace.
The booster I've had for years won't work in the B body as the pushrod is too long. Now is the time to change the length as the pedal support is on the bench, making the measure easy.
Mocked it up with spacers between the booster and support to simulate the firewall thickness. Took a rough measure of what would need to be done.
Clamped the rod with vice grips (as it won't come out without opening the booster), covered the rod end to keep chips out, Ran a 3/8 NF die down to the marked point. Cut the excess rod off with a zip disc. Cleaned up the end.
Re mocked, it's now pretty close to being how it would sit in car. Pedal play is close, probably within a quick turn or two of the forged shackle when it gets bolted up.
All in all it's interesting to see how this setup works. GM did a good job here. Imagine the millions of these that they made.
took the Corvette in for and oil change last fall and have had a leak ever since. Car is way too low to get it up on ramps to check so a buddy of mine has a lift that clears. Oil filter lose Car is out of warranty so it wont see the dealer again
Yeah that is a pretty complicated process getting those snugged up. Probably even got a free winter road treatment underneath over time. Perfect for a Vette.
Welded up those two main pipes of that system I bought. They had been nicely cut midway to remove from the donor car. Guess what...I welded one but forgot the flange. Imagine that. Recut..reweld..doh!
Zipped the muffler flanges in 3 spots and pried out the tailpipes. Will weld on new flanges on the muffler exit and tailpipes as they are really distorted now. 2" ID on the muffler, 2" ID on the tail. It's a small system, but that's just fine with me.
Degreased, wire wheeled and scotchbrited the pipes. Painted them with VHT grey header paint. New donuts, cleaned up inserts and a gutted and welded riser ... this part is done.
I mean, they are just pipes never meant to be seen, but do you like the look? The little dog does.
Nice score on the Dart! I've owned several slant 6 A-bodies over the years, they are fine little transportation machines, the '67-'69 Darts are the best looking of the bunch. Nice that you can find stuff like that lying around that isn't rotted to death. Out here, and old car sitting in the weeds for several years would require a broom and shovel to remove it.
By the way, I spy 'police spec' hubcaps on it. They started using the caps with the holes from the early to mid 1970s up until they stopped using them sometime in the 1980s (?). IIRC, the holes were added to dissipate heat from heavy braking - apparently in severe braking conditions the heat expansion would sometimes cause the lug nuts to back off?
I saw those caps too. I was surprised to find that this car is rolling on 13 inch wheels though. I would have thought 14's for sure. My dad had a valiant station wagon when I was young, actually learned to drive on it. It had the push button automatic though, where this is column shift.
Yes, 13s were standard until '69 or '70. My '65 Valiant wagon had 13s on it, but my '68 Valiant had 14s for some reason...
Got the pipes in today. They fit nice. Somebody did a decent job bending them.
The surprise was when fitting in the drivers side, when I thought it looked pretty well where it needed to be from the front, when I came in from the back to tie wire the muffler, sure enough the factory hanger was up against the muffler in the exact spot it needed to be!
Trial fitting the tailpipes finds that they exit about halfway between a side and rear exit. Strange.
Good for you Mark. Youre getting your exercise I bet under there.
Actually no joke, you do get a workout. Try going down to the ground, sit down, shuffle your butt 2 feet, lay flat, roll 4'... then back up in reverse order. 10 times with it being 85 degrees.
I'm a FS guy, so if you don't do it much, it's not easy to start, but it actually becomes much easier as time goes on. Imagine that.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Nothing as exciting as you lucky guys with old toys however I did replace the starter in my almost antique (lol) 96 Honda Accord yesterday. Fun fact: The starter is on top of the transmission on these cars. The positive to this is you can remove it from above in the engine compartment. The negative is there's the air intake pipe, AC lines, wiring harness running above it and the battery is in the way. The replacement actually went better than I expected taking only about 90 minutes. An hour of that was spent removing one starter bolt. You need a socket and extension exactly the right length or you won't be able to get a ratchet on it. I had to shorten a spare extension and 14 mm deep socket to get the proper length.
My next "project" will be repairing the broken wires in the drivers door of my 04 Grand Cherokee. It's a common issue that is a result of the door being opened and closed- it causes the wires in the rubber "accordian" to break. I have at least two broken wires. Mopar sells a repair kit which comes with a new 14 pin plug and upgraded 12 ga wires to do a proper repair. I think I'll go that route instead of soldering in jumpers.
Now that I have my new to me outbuilding I've inherited more grass to cut. I got that out of the way this morning. Took about 70 minutes on the tractor. I've now been told were going to the beach today so I guess that's it for chores.
Todd I think it's good that these vehicles are holding up well in the maritime climate in which you live. While cars do seem to now last a little longer here in Newfoundland than they used to, the attrition rate due to rust is still very high.
When we got rid of our new 2000 Toyota Sienna in 2004, there were still plenty of these vehicles around. By the time we got it's second replacement in 2010, you could hardly find one on the road here.
I think I have the only surviving 96 Accord in PEI! The previous owner was an American lady who only used the car here in the summer when she visited the island. I don't think it saw any snow until I got it. I keep it undercoated as well. I lucked out on a guy parting one out a few weeks ago so I got a spare front bumper, hood (mine has a number of dents), grille plus a number of other small bits. I'm also picking up the transmission as the parts car only had 124k on it (Mine has almost 300k). He's not crushing it until the fall so I may grab some more bits. I wanted to buy the whole car but he wouldn't sell it as it's more lucrative to part it out. I missed out on the engine.
Car is out of warranty so it wont see the dealer again
